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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Thanks Chris.
But what about those others - Dopey Duck and Pinball Wizard?
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JAK
climber
Central NC
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Hey JAK,
I was asked by the Director of Camp Haynes to not climb at Sauratown during their peak camp season ie. summer and I was requested to discourage other climbers to refrain from climbing at Sauratown during the summer. Since they, (Camp Haynes) ultimately control our access and privilege to climb there, its in our best interest to honor their request. I doubt that your visit did any damage to the camp/climber relationship, so don't sweat it! For the future, please inform your climbing partners of this 'unwritten rule'. Hope you had a good time and let's all look forward to the cool temperatures of Fall.
Sean Barb
Thanks for the heads up! I had no idea...according to all my local contacts Sauratown is open access. I'll definitely contact Camp Hanes and check this out with them before we make another trip. If it's still the policy that they'd prefer us to not to climb during the summer, I'll certainly respect that and stay outta there until Fall.
Thanks for filling me in.
By the way...you do any gym training? If so, which gym do you climb?
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Ahh, adventure climbing at its finest. Looks pretty big, and I'm guessing this is around Cashiers? Is it that weird rock like Whitesides?
Most of the rock in NC is varied, highly metamorphic and difficult to name geologically....so old, so folded. The rock from Linville Gorge and the areas around Boone are very different than the rock to the south: Looking Glass, Rumbling Bald, etc...and then there's the Piedmont. Whitesides always seemed likes its own kinda thing. Featured, but not featured with many cracks (yikes if your on the sharp end).
Thanks for the Shortoff pics The Alpine. Dopey Duck...so good. I've done that one twice. First time in a cold rain in the winter. I couldn't feel my hands, which made me nervous placing those TCUs! Pretty pumpy and stout for 5.9. Could be the greatest 5.9 in the world. Trad lives in NC.
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sean_barb
Trad climber
winston-salem
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JAK,
I rarely train anymore, but when I do its at Gym Hortons in Wilkesboro; occasionally I go to Tumblebees.
Does bouldering at Moore's count?
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Pat - the info for Dopey Duck and Pinball Wizard is there. Dopey is a classic 5.9. Pinball Wizard goes at 11.
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jager
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2006 - 10:59am PT
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TKingsbury, thanks for the link, that program is awesome. I have updated my panarama shot above! Need to redo my moores and pilot ones as well now.
Rankin, White Lighning is the only Linville route I have done so far. Will not be the last for sure! Bubblebee buttress looks great along with the rest of the climbs in the area as well. Need to take a long weekend trip there in the coming weeks.
dmalloy, We wanted to continue climbing, but we got a later start and a party of three. We got to the north ridge around 6pm and we have to drive to charlotte to drop dave off and then head back to raleigh. We got back to Raleigh around 1am sun, but it was soooo worth it. I will be back on that route leading the next time around.
Gunkie, not too worried about the Ouch bait since it isn't my face! But I'm also pretty good with photoshop mashups so I can fire back. If I had a pic of him.
All of the other pics look great. Can't wait to do those! I post a few more pics later.
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foster
climber
nc
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NC Wall - Pansy Wall
Shortoff
Linville River
Shortoff
Mashburns Pinnacle below NC Wall
Jolly Green Giant
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sean_barb
Trad climber
winston-salem
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Great thread... lots of cool images!
Foster's in here! Pansy Wall?
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blackbird
Trad climber
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Ya know, my most terrifying lead (and the one of which I'm most proud to date) was at the Glass... (a 5.8 on the south side... Point of Departure? I think that's the name... Rusty, if you see this correct me if I'm wrong on that name.) Went and did Invisible Airways that weekend, too... Great shot from the top of the pitch looking at the ledge!
OOOhhh... the Eyebrows!! I avoided placint tricams until I hit LG; after that day, I fell in love with the little buggers!!
Doug, check out photobucket.com
Great pics folks, now we just need to wait for T-Wall season to get some of those shots up!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Great stuff!
Okel was a master. Stegg has some shots from his camera of Jim that I took on the last climb he ever did at the BSF. Unfortunately they are on film, and they are not very good, but here is one of Okel a few weeks before the BSF trip, at Reel Cove, down at the far end.
This is about 3 months or less before Jim had to stop climbing because if his illness, it is 5.11 if it is anything, and he is floating up it. Notice that his footing is almost non-existent, yet he does not appear stressed or straining at all. Jim took a good fall on this route, climbed back up, found something else, and finished up. He was an elegant, graceful, calm climber, and a great guy to be around. Jim was also a gourmet cook, and a musician. He was a budhist.
Photo by RRK, photoshopped to salvage weird developing or something by me.
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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Foster, woah. Those pics are blowing my mind. I scoped some of those lines years ago. Pansy Wall especially. I took a bad fall off of the second pitch of Pixie Wall (with the original anchor, or lack of anchor, still in place) which is just to the right of that ovehang. How many holes went in on that thing? What does it go at? Are these routes published in new guidebooks? I think I remember walking past that Jolly Green Giant feature, but I'm not so sure about Mashburn's pinnacle. It's not high on the rim where Mossy Monster Buttress is, but you say its down below the NC wall. I think I know what you're talking about. But what I'm thinking of is well below the NC Wall, gettin on towards the river? Peregrines like to hang out there of course. Those are some of the coolest looking new routes. Great job to the FA'ers. Gotta have vision.
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sean_barb
Trad climber
winston-salem
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I took my biggest whip in recent memory on the 2nd pitch of Pansy Wall. Pretty stout outing... 5.12?
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Crag Rat
Trad climber
SC
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As to Laurel Knob, there are actually about 25 routes, most in the 7-10 pitch range. Our little mini-guide only lists some of them. We are working on getting a set of topos for sale soon, before the Fall season starts. We are right at the half way mark on fund raising. Not bad for closing in February. I'll be at the Trade Show looking for industry funding so if any of you guys will be there, seriously consider helping pay for this awesome place and then come check it out in person!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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I never realised there was that much rock (and it looks of good quality and length) in that neck of the woods.
Definitely on my 'to go and to do' list.
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Dirt - I need to talk to you. Have you seen the Jim Okel thingy on my website highexposures? I'd be glad to borrow any film you may have of him.
Just so everyone knows, there is no good rock in the southeast, let alone in north carolina.
And there's billions of rednecks.
And shotguns.
And smokers.
And fat people.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Did Laban get hurt on that fall of GM? He fell just before clipping the bolt, right?
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Nice photos!
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jager
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2006 - 04:43pm PT
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Yes, The Alpine is correct. For a summary of climbing in NC, just watch Deliverance!
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Rankin
climber
Bishop, CA
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That's pretty funny. My AK-sceunt has faded a bit over the past six years, but some of my California friends still call me 'Deliverance.'
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
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Laban madae out alright. The crux of the direct happens to be right there at that bolt - had to be that way to preserve the integrity of the aid line that goes through there. The gear that ripped held two prior falls, but apparently Laban has just gotten too fat. To his credit though it was only a circle head and a rurp.
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