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cintune
climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
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Jan 26, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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Bonatti.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2014 - 11:16am PT
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Thanks Cintune.
Walter Bonatti certainly has a place among those pushing the limits of what's possible and still surviving. He knew that he had pushed the limits of what's considered possible by soloing the south-west pillar of the Aiguille du Dru.
He climbed the south-west pillar the year after the 1954 incident when Compagnoni lied accusing him of using the oxygen meant for the summit attempt on K2. Walter Bonatti was never reconciled with Compagnoni, owing to Compagnoni's false accusation. (Lacedelli before his death confirmed Bonatti's version of the story)
Bonatti said: "Until the conquest of K2 (1954) I had always felt a great affinity for and trust of other men, but after what happened in 1954 I came to mistrust people. I tended to rely only on myself. This was limiting me and I knew it, but at least served to protect me from further disappointment."
"Then in the August of 1955, after two attempts frustrated by the weather, he managed to solo climb a new route on the south-west pillar of the Aiguille du Dru in the Mont Blanc Group. The climb, rated ED+ with difficulties up to UIAA VIII-, required six days (and five hanging bivouacs) and still today is considered a masterpiece of climbing.
After five days of climbing on a vertical rock offering very limited protection, Bonatti found himself stalled and faced with an impassable overhanging section. On the left and on the right the rock was absolutely smooth. Bonatti put together all the slings and small sections of ropes he had on him, attached one end of the rope in a crack and swinging on the other end managed to negotiate the difficulty. This route, known afterwards as the Bonatti Pillar, is considered still today as one of the greatest achievements in alpinism. In order to overcome long vertical sections and several overhangs, Bonatti had to adapt the techniques of aid climbing to the granitic rock formations of the Dru."
In 2005 a massive landslide completely destroyed the Bonatti Pillar route."
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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Anybody remember a Mountain Magazine story where some guys where on one of the Euro classics and one of them was killed by rockfall, during a bivi I think. The survivor said to the rescue guys or in an interview later,
" It's a hard life. "
It's one of my memories that has survived. That was in the 70s probably.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jan 26, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Riccardo Cassin
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
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Maybe Steve has the story. ;>)
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Jan 26, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
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Joe Brown, the man. . .
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
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Mc Hale
You find the article "It's a Hard Life" by Will Barker in Mountain 7, January 1970, after he had witnessed what happened when stones rushed down the flanks of the Walker Spur. They found Jörg Lehne dead and the words "It's a bloody hard life" came from Karl Golikow. One of his legs had been savagely crushed. Golikow was rescued by helicopter. Meanwhile two English lads were retreating lower down the face, one of them with a broken knee.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
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First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain then there is.
He ain't heavy, but Es Ist Mein Bruder
Will the discovery of Günther's body end your anguish? I asked. Will the feud be over?
"It will never be over," he replied angrily. Then, in a fast-paced, 40-minute monologue, he railed against journalists for believing the "lies" of his teammates, against von Kienlin's cunning, and against the German Alpine Club for letting von Kienlin and Saler hold a press conference in their "holy house."
http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/mountaineering/Es-Ist-Mein-Bruder-.html
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