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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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The recently published database of Yosemite rockfalls (http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/746/ ) provides some insight into the seasonality of rockfalls at Glacier Point.
Bruce Morris is broadly correct when he states that rockfalls tend to be more common at Glacier Point in the spring (32%), but the other seasons also see significant activity (summer 27%; fall 20%; winter 21%).
Thus, there is no strong seasonality to rockfalls at Glacier Point, nor in Yosemite Valley in general. This is likely because there are a number of different processes that trigger rockfalls (e.g., rain, snowmelt, freeze-thaw, heat, etc.) operating over different seasons.
So while it may be somewhat safer to climb at Glacier Point in the fall, rockfalls should be expected there at any time.
Greg Stock
Yosemite Park Geologist
(209) 379-1420
greg_stock@nps.gov
PS - I think Mr. Natural is one of the best finger cracks in Yosemite.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Ochre Fields
Goodrich Pinnacle
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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There might not be a huge difference in Glacier point Apron rockfall seasonal timing but there is a big difference between the rocks coming down glacier point center versus far left and far right, where there have been far more severe rockfalls.
PEace
Karl
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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I was talking about seasonal rock fall during the spring on the west side of GPA between Monday Morning Slab and the Punch Bowl. Sure, there's rock fall coming down Goodrich Pinnacle, but that's more like one-zy two-zy and mostly occasional. When it cuts loose on the west end, it's more like a wall of rocks. Why? If you go exploring above Mr Natural up Bad Acid, you'll find innumerable rocks perched on top of each other in all kinds of odd unstable positions ready to cut loose. Of course, how many people have ever gone up exploring "Bad Acid"? Not a nice stable place to be sure! Go see for yourself. Have fun!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Greg has the data on rockfall by volume, or you can check it yourself.
There was a big rockfall which hit the top of Monday Morning Slab sometime between the late 70s and the 90s (I figured out the date at one time but don't recall it at the moment). It left the rock on top of Monday Morning pretty pulverized and took out some trees.
It's also not entirely clear how to distinguish between a "small" and "large" rockfall. It seems any rockfall that's observed could be fatal if it hits you. And even the "large" rockfalls that take down big trees seem to miss people. The big rockfall which killed Peter Terbush spared the guy leading Apron Jam above him. It came down the Punch Bowl, then rolled down along the base and struck Peter. It seems the rockfalls which cover wider areas involve higher risk, though. I'm not exactly sure how the volume translates to area at risk; maybe Greg has done an area/volume-weighted seasonal risk study.
I've been up on Bad Acid, twice. Most recently it was the thick moss that was pretty scary! Also having come down from the top of Glacier Point to rap down Hall of Mirrors for rebolting, there are definitely lots of rocks here and there up high. I haven't had any close calls with rockfall there, but it may be due to luck.
I'd say Mr. Natural is my favorite there also. I've repeated many of the other moderate climbs, including Angel's Approach and have enjoyed most of them. This includes the original Harry Daley p1 which John mentioned. It was the first 5.8 for many people back in the day. It still has the mangled bong at the upper crux!
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Byran
climber
Yosemite
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The Apron is cursed by it's low angle and north facing aspect. No sun in the winter and all day sun in the summer, without a doubt the GPA has the shortest climbing season of any formation in the Valley. That combined with the fact that most of the routes are beyond my ability means I haven't done much there.
Slab is the only style of climbing that I've never been able to break out of the 5.10 grade, and not for a lack of trying. The furthest I've ever made up the GPA is a linkup of Cold Fusion > Point Beyond > Angels Approach, and that was pushing it a bit. Came down all dehydrated and sunburned. Good type 2 fun.
Personally I prefer my slab to be a little bit more featured and a little higher angle. Like the Apron on Middle Cathedral, or the knobby stuff in Tuolumne and Whitney Portal.
I guess my favorite route on the GPA is Mr Natural (with Apron Jam to start), although Goodrich Right is also pretty good and the Grack Center is probably the best climb of it's grade in Yosemite.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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It seems any rockfall that's observed could be fatal if it hits you.
I got hit on the Apron by a cantelope-sized rock. I thought it was going to miss me, but it took a wild bounce at the last second and almost took off my head. I was sure that I was a dead man it was bleeding so badly and hurt so much. I was a couple hundred feet up and I wasn't on a rope.
When those rocks are moving that fast, it doesn't take a large rock to kill you.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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anyone got pictures of the mr. natural?
that there is a beautiful crack.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jared on Mr. Natural - April 27, 2008:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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That granite on the Apron is just so beautiful. When you get up a few pitches, you just feel the sheets and sheets of perfect surface cascading all around you, like living inside of a pearl.
I'll never forget the day in November Nutjob and I came off of the last rap from Goodrich, Right and the sky entered into its Sunset-of-the-Year garb. The entire surface of the Apron began glowing a warm pink hue like the light was coming from the rock itself and lighting up the sky, rather than the other way around.
Tried to capture it in this vid, didn't get it of course. I was ready to tie back in and cast off on Goodrich again, just to swim into that perfect, warm plane of glowing pink granite. Like the allure you feel when standing at the end of a high pier on a glassy day... You just want to jump in.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Some more pics:
Scott had to lead through this wet streaks:
And one of Mr. Natural:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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That pink! Truly a glorious moment. I remember it clearly, and le_bruce, your words captured it better than the point and shoot camera video ever could.
I could use a healthy does of Glacier Apron right about now.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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Ah Yikes!! Soloing in the Apron must be a rush. I can't imagine down-climbing from high up.
Great shots. And I'm glad to see Ocher Fields represented! What a beauty that is, staring with a 5.5 crack that traverses the lip if a huge roof, then straight up off the belay, so if you fall it feels like you'd fly into space over the lip.
Such a cool spot!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mr. Natural and Son of Sam.
Used to go to the Apron and just traverse all over the bottom. Just working on my footwork.
Good Times!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice that the rock steepens above the slabs....reminds me of ice climbs with avalanche slopes above them.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Yay Apron climbing!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 20, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
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Not the Apron proper,
but was looking at this part of
a Vern Clevenger photo of Illilouette
Canyon, and saw route potential in these
interesting cracks and faces.
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AlanDoak
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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I love the Apron!! I wish we had one in Colorado.
My first friction slab climb ever was Marginal, I got scared and bailed. When one of my friends sent it, I got super pissed at myself and looked for any slab I could toprope so I could go back and lead Marginal. I sent it and was hooked on slab for life.
I haven't found anything else like the Apron, so smooth and polished.
Until Alex repeated HoM, it seemed like that route was like Atlantis, Easter Island or the Pyramids: an ancient monument from some lost civilization.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Alan.....so smooth and polished. And you want one in Rado....my oh my.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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I've always loved the Apron ever since it was the second place in the Valley where I climbed. First Apron climb was M.M Slab, Right Side with Jan (Baker) Sacherer and Roger Dalke. I then climbed the M.M Slab, Left Side in the mid 1970's with Neil Johnson while I was doing a Post-Doc at UCSC. We went on and did the Grack, Center on the same trip. Also did first pitch of Grack, Left Side but ran out of time and daylight to do the finish. On another trip, Neil and I completed Harry Daley Route on M.M. Slab.
I came back in 1980 while in the throes of my first divorce and again did Grack, Center, followed by Harry Daley Route. Finished thing off nicely with Point Beyond on the same day.
With Anne Carrier in 1981, we did the Grack, Center Route; Grack, Left Side Route; Grack, Marginal; and Grack, Right Side. We also did Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route and another repeat of Harry Daley Route.
P.S. added in "edit:" I'd still like to do some of my "unfinished business" on the Apron, especially Goodrich Pinnacle, Right Side; The Mouth, Regular Route (Anne took a bad whipper leading that one in 1982); and another runnout classic, Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge.
Since these trips, I've avoided the Apron due the perceived rock fall...
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