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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Aug 12, 2006 - 12:51am PT
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"It is rarely travelled though I don't know why"
Cause Captain approaches are way shorter and most people don't want to hike up 6 miles with a pig on them.
I think the rock is stunning. I was up there in May poking around, took a bunch of snaps wondering what was up there. Ken, do you have a bigger pic of the South Face that shows where it goes?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 12:58am PT
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Flouride,
I do have a picture of the South Face and will attempt to draw the route in. It is pretty obvious when wandering up there.
Ken
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 12, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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Thanks for the S. Belle story Ken. Hilarious.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2006 - 02:15am PT
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Here you go Fluoride,
The South Face.
The general area.
The route with the right hand variation marked in. The right variation would be the easiest way to go for an ascent. The left variation has more potential to go free.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 10:31pm PT
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The Tigers belly from where the route starts.
The derelicts before we got into this mess.
Ken
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Aug 13, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
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Is that Jim Campbell in the center? Didn't he help with the efforts up there?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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T2,
Yes, that is Jim. Just saw him and Carol recently they are doing well.
-Ken
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
Two years on the back pages is enough for this underappreciated thread!! We've had so many junk threads, that I think this one deserves another look what with all the commotion over on the "Growing Up" thread. What an amazing thing you guys did!
What the heck ever happened to Jim Cambell? I climbed the West Face of El Cap in a day with he and Scott Burk back around that time. (1987) We had a ball up there. If you see him, please tell him that Bruce said hello. That's the first photo I've seen of him in twenty years.....amazing.
Who's Iron Monkey??
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Ken, those have to be some of the most amazing photos I've seen, anywhere. Thank you for sharing them with us. We spent a lot of time on the tiger's belly under your route, looking up at that big corner to the right. We've had many a conversation about how amazing that feature and your route are. I would love to someday have the nerves for that thing. That is some zen master sh#t, to be sure. I'm coming up there today to do some long routes in the valley. I'll swing by tonight to say hi.
Ben
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE: "Who's Iron Monkey??" = Dave Shultz
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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This is the Topic that should attain 600+ posts.
Thanks Ken!
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L
climber
If only I could remember....
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Wow Ken, those are beautiful and literally quite awe-inspiring photos.
How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???
I'm looking at that dike and thinking, "Any minute, any second...the call of the wild blue yonder is going to end in For Whom the Bells Toll.
You obviously have some good karma going for you. Thanks for sharing the experience.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Thank you L,
I am glad you like them.
How the hell did you guys keep it together up there???
After we cast off, the wall got more overhanging and longer underneath us and retreat did not appear to be an option. So we had to keep it together. There were some tense times and ecstatic relief when we reached the top. Here is a photo, just before we dropped our fixed lines.
So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds.
Ken
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WBraun
climber
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Good stuff Ken
So Ken you and me being older and a little wiser now, ..... hummmnn maybe not me being any wiser now.
But anyways .... we can free solo it now, meet me at the base.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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What time Werner? I just found my old chalk bag.
Ken
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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"So many times, I thought I was going over backwards. After the climb I had a scab on my nose from turning my head to look for my foot holds."
Those might just be the best words written on climbing in the last year!
Now this may just be base-less chisme, but wasn't Schultz also called "Ultimate Male"? The reference point being that when he went to the WC in the morning and had to force down the pee-rod, he'd actually be front-flipped into the john? If so, that's some mighty powerful core strength.
More interesting tidbits:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=360600&msg=366267#msg366267
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Gene
climber
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The "Tiger's Belly" picture is just plain awesome.
Great thread.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Ken,
refer to my question about Jim Cambell earlier??
Bump!!!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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Hi Bruce,
I see Jim about once a year lately. He lives with his wife, Carol in Las Crusces, New Mexico. She works at the university there. I will tell him hi for you next time I see him. I know I have his contact info somewhere and will email it to you when I find it.
Ken
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Dawggie! Now that's got some serious SSSSSS on it! Bump.
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