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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
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Brilliant images Marlow! Thanks for reminding us of our history. As a budding rock climbing youth I couldn't wait for each new copy of Mountain Magazine . . . still have my entire collection starting with #57, the Gogarth issue.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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Kalimon
Could you scan and post?
"The sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey are the stuff of legend. These beautiful and atmospheric crags have been a key destination for each generation of climbers since they were first discovered in the mid 60s." (Simon Panton)
Meanwhile at Gogarth:
Gogarth on UKclimbing.com: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1850
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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My then Irish gal and I moved up to Tregarth, 7km from Bangor, for three months (I had taken a job as a press officer for Cornelyn Manor, an outdoor management development and team building company based outside of Beaumaris) until the 1990 recession hit the UK (so back down to London). Climbed a bit in Snowdon, but did do some in Cloggy (mainly Pedestal Crack and Terrace Crack, I led, Marie, not really a climber, belayed and followed).
I always wanted (still do) to climb Cenotaph Corner.
And A Dream of White Horses in Gogarth is also on my tick list. Considering I lived for over 17 years in Dublin/Dalkey, a "short" three-hour or so ferry trip from Dun Laoghaire, I should have made the journey to climb on Anglesey. Oh well…
… there is always tomorrow.
Now Jennie and I are in Wexford three miles from the Europort in Rosslare Harbour. Perhaps someday I will make it to Lundy Island, the Devil's Slide has always been on my tick list, I know that it is not Welsh rock.
And winter in Glen Coe and Ben Nevis for ice climbing. It's just a bit tough though being a 24/7 carer for Jennie.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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From Ed Drummond's book "A Dream of White Horses"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
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Are we dreaming?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Reilly
Cool, is that really Reilly at Gogarth? And is Dave really Reilly?
Edited:
Awesome link to Mousetrap E2 5a - Gogarth/Anglesey. I'll let Jeremy speak:
"RADNESS!!!
That rock is WILD MAN...WILD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
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Reilly is almost always behind the lens, for obvious reasons.
While it is nice to dream it is actually better to go mouse catching although
the mouse can be surprisingly coy*...
Mousetrap
*E2,5a versus HVS although I don't really recall Mousetrap being 5a
because it was such an astounding setting.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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I feel this thread will generate some great old photos - come on Blakey. I've got some scans but the bulk of my old photos are still slides and are unfortunately packed away somewhere as we are moving house.
Here's one of Big Ron attempting the FA of Strawberries at Tremadog the weekend before he succeeded. Interestingly, until he actually did it, it was commonly known as Peaches - the crackline to the right of it is called Cream.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Jaaan
Awesome photo... and the guy in the lower right corner doesn't make it any less spectacular...
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 17, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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Nice shots Reilly and jaaan!
For Marlow, some crude scans . . . hope they work.
These are images I have scanned from my original copy of Mountain Magazine #57.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Kalimon
Thanks a lot. ... the taste of climbing history in progress...
What an article! ... to be continued in Mountain 58... lol...
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Nov 18, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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The hugely underrated Tim Freeman flashing Neb Direct (a hugely underrated E3 - solid 5.11+?) in 1980.
The guy in the white top watching the proceedings is Jerry Moffatt, who failed to follow Tim that day. He must have got a bit better as he flashed Phoenix 4 years later.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
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Duncan.
Thanks for posting up!
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Nov 19, 2013 - 05:29am PT
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i am in wales now, watching the wet snow come down. it is fun to see wales pop up on the forum. i'll have to wait until i have access to a bigger screen to read the articles.
i spent eight days here in august with beautiful weather. my favorites were gogarth, comes a dervish and everything at tremadog!
cheers, j
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 19, 2013 - 06:55am PT
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Jaan (AKA: Jon)
I've done my share of Gogarth adventures, but sadly not many photo's (if any have survived at all).
The Strand, Gogarth, Winking Crack, The Moon, T Rex, Dream, Concrete Chimney Big Groove, Bloody Chimney and Strike etc, etc.
However, the most exciting memory was having lunch on the slopes above Dream, relaxed and leaning back against a Mini sized block, along with the Carlisle lads, Steve Clegg, Pete Bottrill - I thing Armstrong was there and maybe Jeff Lamb.
Anyhow, we were soaking up the sun, feeling all studly when the block decided to go. Several of us were using it as a backrest and it just broke free, accellerated down the slope (faster than a real Mini would have managed) and took to the air.
Thankfully it cleared the rock (it's all overhung somewhat thereabouts) and crashed into the Zawn. In the confined space of the Zawn the noise was like a bomb detonating. There was one team on the last pitch of Dream I think, who felt it go by and were pretty shaken, but the easiest way off was to finish!
Even lunch at Gogarth is exciting!
Steve
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Nov 19, 2013 - 09:51am PT
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1977, North Wales.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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rmuir
Thanks for posting up!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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Gogarth
"Imagine a sea cliff that covers the whole headland of the large island of Anglesey, on the west tip of Wales. Imagine coves, inlets, and caves, overhanging walls, fins, and arches, cormorants skimming white-tipped waves, and fat seals swimming in the turbulent Irish Channel. Every bay has a different character and color. The stone is variously crumbling, solid, sandy, muddy, lichen-covered, and guano-sprayed.
Imagine that on some walls you find bomber protection in solid quartzite, if you can hang on long enough to place it. But imagine that on others you will be plugging cams into sand and nuts into clay, clipping rusty pegs, wrapping slings around quartz protrusions, placing sky hooks for protection, and fiddling in RPs as if your life depends on it (and it will). Imagine a half dozen such pieces equalized for your belay anchor. Imagine that there is only one bolt on the whole cliff—and that is a chopped, rusty relic.
The crumbling brink is an easy stroll for climbers and sightseers alike, but your experience below will be far beyond anything comprehensible to the tourists—or even to many climbers. When you finally pull the lip with a thousand-mile stare, you will find that you were not imagining it at all. Your abseil rope had simply transported you to another world, to Gogarth, the biggest, baddest trad cliff in the U.K."
Nick Bullock
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