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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 12, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Some good stemming can be found on the following:
Fools Finger - the start is intricate stemming with small gear on this gem
Ying Yang - good fun
Rock Horror Show- looks cool but I haven't been on it yet
Bircheff / Williams - the Yosemite classic for stemming
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Edit:
The last pitch of Beggar's Buttress is a good stem pitch(5.11) but it was a tad dirty when I did it last. Lots of lichen on the walls which got into my eyes but the climbing was good.
On the Book Of Hate route of Leavitt's, I heard that both Heinz Zak & Tommy Caldwell repeated it with a Rockwork Orange chimney technique(butt on one side, feet on the other side) and called it 5.10d. I have not tried this though.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 12, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
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Thanks Levy. That is really interesting. I wonder what Randy's thoughts on that finding would be. He is awfully good and plenty smart so I have to wonder if the rumor is true.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 12, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
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Once upon a time. Five feet of some of the best stemming not to mention all the exposure and it's way runout.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 12, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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It's making me stem...Yosemite Climber in Anticipation!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 12, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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For hard stemming pitches, pitch 25(?) of the preMuir should be on the list.
The leader wore Hand Jammies on backwards, so he could use the rubber on the palms!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 12, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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Steve, that photo of Spencer on Anticipation and Augie's raving about the quality of the stemming was my inspiration to climb that route many years ago now. Thanks for the classic!
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bob
climber
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Feb 12, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Rocky Horror Show was one of my better OS's. The only reason I made it was because of stemming. Stem stemmity stemmeroooo!!!!!!!!
Come to think of it, I sort of remember doing some good stemming on that route to the right of Desperado up at Pat and Jack. It is a big corner with a series of smaller corners that if I remember correctly requires some big stems granted the whole pitch isn't stemming.........
Jeezz did anyone understand what I just wrote?
I also thought the pitch headed up to the headwall on the Salathe had some mega stems if freed.
First pitch of Gates of Delirium up by Ribbon Falls has some hard stemming that gets one through the crux.
Anticipation.....ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Bob J.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Feb 12, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Having led it in EB-geebie pre-cam days my memory may not be perfectly clear but the Birceff Williams seemed as good as it gets. I found it trippy how it went from finger nails and extreme palming to wide off width in the span of one move.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 12, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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I thought of some more stemming routes in Yosemite NP.
Full Stem Ahead - Lower Falls Ampitheater - an obscurity not found in the newer books due to it's location. May be licheny/mossy.
Crack on the headwall above the Vision, in Tuolomne Meadows. It is a 5.11a corner that takes good gear. I cannot recall the name though but it's next to Whippersnapper. I did it with my then GF sheri & we both liked it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 12, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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That picture of Spencer is sweet. Did the FA of Anticipation with Chappie in about 74. Never got into Yoga like Wunsch and I remember wishing that I was more flexible.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2011 - 03:46am PT
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This may not be worth much, but here is the list of "Stem" type climbs I have for the Valley:
1169. After Six 5.7 **
44. Cool Cliff 170 5.8
2441. Higher Cathedral Rock - Northeast Buttress 5.9 ***
2554. Lower Cathedral Rock - East Buttress 5.10c **
1592. Haley's Little Warm-up 5.10d
1098. Superstem 5.11a *
2479. Bircheff-Williams 5.11b **
1103. Deucey's Nose 5.11
950. El Capitan - West Face 5.11c **
1452. Full Stem Ahead 5.11d
144. Roadside Attraction 5.12a **
416. Rocky Horror Show 5.12a **
1905. Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face 5.12 or 5.9 C1 ***
2817. Book of Hate 5.13d
1006. Nose Free 5.14a
Clearly it is missing a few pitches, but might be useful.
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