No Cobra Crack thread?
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MH2

climber
Sep 28, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Jean-Pierre Ouellet?

He prolly could. He should.


edit:
Ethan Pringle yes
and Matt (Sagan?) from Colorado who worked on it with Ethan

edit again:
Matt Segal
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 30, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Honnold's done it.

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/honnold-repeats-cobra-crack-514-trad-squamish/

PeeWee did not, neither did tommy.

Here is Sonnie on the FA:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

In order I believe:

Sonnie Trotter
Nicolas Favresse
Ethan Pringle
Matt Segal
Yuji Hirahama
Will Stanhope
Alex Honnold
Pete Whittaker
Tom Randall


 Luke
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 30, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
Cool Luke, but u forgot the other Luke I mentioned- Mr. Cormier- his ascent was quite noteworthy :-)


Is there any other 5.14 pure cracks out there that have been climbed as many times as the cobra??!



Herd Yuji just hiked it.

What a pretty climb.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Sep 30, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Luke wrote:

CALIFORNIA
The Stigma, 13c, Yosemite, FA: Alan Watts
Phantom, 13a, Yosemite, FA: Bachar
Casablanca (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Title Fight (13-), Yosemite Valley, FA: Suzuki
Van Belle Odrome, 13, Yosemite, FA: Bob Van Belle
Van Belle Syndrome, 13, Yosemite, FA: Bob Van Belle
Cosmic Debris, 13b, Yosemite, FA: Bil Price
Phoenix, 13a, Yosemite, FA: Jardine (with aid, no?)
Book of Hate, 13c, Yosemite, FA: Leavitt
Meltdown, 14b, Yosemite, FA: Beth Rodden
Magic Line, 14a, Yosemite, FA: Kauk
Excellent Adventure (13), Yosemite Valley, FA: Croft
Love Supreme (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Bachar
Whippersnapper (13-), Tuolumne, FA: Croft
Broken Arrow (13), Tuolumne, FA: Kauk
Puma (13), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Star Wars Crack (13-), Donner Summit, FA: Suzuki
Grand Illusion, 13b/c, Sugarloaf, FA: Yaniro
Pyromania, 13b, Needles, FA: Yaniro
Stingray, 13+, J-tree, FA: Mike Paul/Suzuki?
Dihedron, 14-, Jtree, FA: Leavitt
Asteroid Crack, 12+/13-, Jtree, FA: ?


Rodden, just so f*#king proud.

What's up with the asterisk on Potter's name after Hong Kong Phooey?
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
We also now have The Gunslinger at 13+ FA Ben Harnden and The Bull 14a Jeremy Smith.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
The list Luke quoted is copied from
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/comprehensive-list-of-north-americas-hard-cracks-513-and-up/107411140__1
and there are other suggested additions on the thread there (several of them
match up with my simple ones below).

While such a list is invariably incomplete or has ratings in flux due to few ascents, I can think of a couple I would add:

 Nose (Great Roof 13c, pitch above Camp 6 14b)
 Salathe' Wall (p19, headwall pitches)
 Dihedral Wall
 Magic Mushroom
 Zodiac (Nipple 13d)
 The Prophet (A1 Beauty)
 Dale's Pin Job, aka World's Hardest
 Elephant's Eliminate (rated 12d, but has stopped most people and 1 repeat)
 Lucille (MP says consensus is still 5.13a/b)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lucille/105760437
 Belly Full of Bad Berries
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/belly-full-of-bad-berries/105930620

People have rated very few cracks 5.14, so some of the 5.13s might be close in difficulty.

And see below - I'm not editing fast enough!
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Sep 30, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
and Century Crack
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Woah, killer list. So out of that list how many are unrepeated?!?!



Yea and what's with the * ?
Timmc

climber
BC
Sep 30, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Bruce K-

I lead the first pitch too as Jim S was working Cobra crack a long time ago.
I think Jim told me it was 11b

I remember that I couldn't see him up there while he was climbing. I thought it was pretty cool.
saa

climber
Bleau, cham, pink granite coast
Oct 4, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
cobra


the summer was 2011.
in squam july was rain,the rock was suffering. august got some dry in.

alex honnold did cobra. red point if my memory serves.
mason earle went for it. can t remember the output since i left the chief.
dean potter scanned it, said "it would take a month" (he had other things on his plate those few weeks.)
brad gobright (sorry brad im mispelling your name) took some shots with an anckle recently destroyed on midnight lightning. hard to 5.14 on that...

that s all i remember.


s
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Oct 4, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
The idea of the list/thread (link above by clint) is to talk about Cracks not just routes with gear protecting the crux. Also Multi-pitch routes and offwidths were excluded to trim it down a little.

This disqualifies things like The Bull, or The Path (Both in Canada). Not sure about The Gunslinger...

Not sure about the * on HKP perhaps a pinkpoint?

Since the list Question Your Progression should be added:


Enjoy!

 Luke
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
Dec 8, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
Did cultureshock intentionally downgrade Meltdown in his post?

Edit: I just realized this wasn't his list. Apologies to cultureshock. It looks like camhead on MP was doing the downgrading.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 8, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
Doesn't really matter with that one or magic line anyways until they get repeated.
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