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tew
Trad climber
ATX
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Love that book. Still pick it up.
Two things I learned: The word 'recalcitrant' as in 'use a nut tool to remove recalcitrant chocks.' And how to hand jam properly:
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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I look forward to reading it. Ordered a copy on line for $0.24 plus $3.99 shipping. :-)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 17, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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she looks so relaxed hanging there.....
That she does.
I was out with her yesterday in Mariposa Co.
We drove up to Hornitos and lunched in the cemetery.
She joined me in my ascent of the North Face of ST. Catherine Church there.
She told me that she has became camera shy after all that posing for those black and whites and cautioned me to use only GOOD shots of her, please.
I've done my best, on the Birds thread and here.
The flamenco dancing does not surprise me--when we left to hit the road from Merced, I gave her the local radio settings for classical music. She had heard me listening to a Vivaldi CD and asked about it.
Amy still does it in spades!
Wonderfully smooth mover.
A Gentle Breeze is right, DMT.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Great book
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 17, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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I admit to reading parts of FREEDOM OF THE THRILLS, by the Funyuneers, but the book you read scares the sh#t outta me!
I think of Land Sharks when I look at the cover of the 2nd edition.
Ding-Dong, ding-dong, ding....
"It's your Happy Pizza Man!!"
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 20, 2015 - 08:36pm PT
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I bought this book around 1983, and studied it intensely.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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All these characters basically from the Sixties-Seventies Indian Rock scene, like myself.
Hear, hear, although Mike dates from the 1950's Berkeley scene. He made a few first ascents in Yosemite then. (The SW Buttress of Liberty Cap and the Cracker at the base of Leaning Tower come to mind).
When I was an undergrad at Berkeley, a lot of the climbers that were enrolled would hang out for lunch in the basement of Eschelman Hall at the U.C. Hiking Club cubicle. I ran across Mike's application to become a Qualified Leader for the Club there. Even more fun, I ran across Pratt's application, too. I'm not sure what happened to them, and the other documents. For all I know, they may still be there.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 21, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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Saw Mike in Bishop not too long ago. Always a good host and a seriously good cook. Always exposes me to something I never knew about classical music. Lorraine's artwork is beautiful.
Mike has forgotten more about the Sierra than most of us put together will ever know.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 21, 2015 - 05:57pm PT
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Downward Bound is classic.
Loughman's book is more about movement and to an extent style, while the Robbins books etc. focus more on technical stuff. Both are important of course. Basic Rockcraft was my first climbing manual. Loughman's book came later and just at the right time.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jan 21, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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So looking forward to climbing this year with Amy.
Based on the resurgence of this thread, I bought the book-- hope it will help with my difficulty with thin cracks.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jan 21, 2015 - 10:35pm PT
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I remember that very overhang shown on page 34, which Ksolem kindly posted up. It was at the eastern end of the low wall in the park-like area across from Indian Rock proper.....this wall was featured with all of these clean horizontals, great for edging.
The exit moves to that roof problem was, in fact, the crux. Not a highball, the roof was high enough to require a beginner's attention.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I remember that book. never owned it but the guy who started me climbing had me read it from his collection. I do own learning to Ice climb and that obviously influenced me greatly. I remember from this rock book that they suggested talaus running and boulder hopping as a training excersise. An activity that terrifys me knees these days....
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Freedom of the hills taught principles...
i read and read, and loved the line art.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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I remember from this rock book that they suggested talaus running and boulder hopping
Can not remember the name of the book it was in but I vividly remember the picture of Doug Robinson running talus
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I remember that! & thinking that as it was a joke? or at least a fool thing to risk . . .
Who was it who taught me to carry & drink wine?
He was dead set against any of that sort of folly.{WH} Was not fond of jumping around, pounded down to go up, and hated going down for any reason.
Then if the retreat was to be made,
it often was accomplished walking backward, to spend as much time scanning the route as time would allow.
It was just as dangerous as jumping, rock to rock.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Well, you could learn to think like Royal, or just think, period.
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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After reading your silly comments about Royal Robbin's books on climbing, I have "another nickname" for you, but you wouldn't like it. It's gist you may surmise by the remainder of my comments.
Advanced Rockcraft was a masterpiece. My "Bible." Really all I (and anyone else at the time?) needed know to become a "trad leader" in 1972- 74 when stoppers and hexes became the tools of the trade, replacing pitons.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Mike Loughman is a real gentlemen... Here is a photo of a photo of Mike on Room to Shroom at JTree. Took it when we were visiting him in Bishop a couple of years ago - he didn't remember what route it was, but I just happened to have done the route two days before! Hope Mike doesn't mind me posting this...
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