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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 12:40pm PT
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Interesting, JM. We thought those were from the '70s when Andrew Solo and others first climbed in that area. Still scary, even if only 20 years old.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:20pm PT
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Hmmm... Slab vs face. What's the difference? How steep is a slab before it's a face? And is that a distinction worth quibbling over? Hmmm.
Here's a recent photo of The Artist Formerly Known As Gramicci leading the first pitch of a Portal sub-classic latter-ly known as Stop Me Before I Drill Again:
Certainly a slab.
But then I got to thinking... Back in the day, I really don't EVER remember making the distinction between slabs and faces. If a route didn't have any cracks, if you had to rely on bolts for pro, then that was a FACE route. Prima facia. Everything at Suicide (with the exception of The Pirate, Insomnia, Wet Dreams, etc,) was a face route. We were face climbing, no doubt about it. And Apron routes, while being slabby and lower-angle, were still face routes. Valhalla was always a face route, back then--no quibbles.
Slab vs. face. Maybe they're the same thing! (They are or They were. You be the judge.)
And when does a bump become a hump?
Hmmm?
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bsmith
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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"And when does a bump become a hump?"
A bump can come from any part of your body. A hump clearly involves a thrust from the pelvis.
For example, if you're in a crowded subway...
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:34pm PT
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Now we have some "real" slab climbing photos! nice...
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 19, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
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I just took a nasty 25 footer off an old Ed Webster slab climb here in VT. He called it an 11 but I think it got pinscared down to solid 10. anyways it is still pretty thin at the crux and I got a nasty blister on my left hand from slideing off that hot rock.... maby figuer out how to post a shot tomorrow.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
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"And when does a bump become a hump?"
And when does a noun become a verb? (Hmmm?)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2006 - 09:58pm PT
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face, slab, whatever you wanna call it, it feels GOOD. damn, i'm JONESIN' FOR DIMES!!!1!!1
hmmmm..looks good, too.....
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:03pm PT
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There. Tape on the fingers! ...must be a FACE climb!
[duck, cover and hold]
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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back the fuuck up, muir. i don't care if you're a childhood hero of mine. you lay one hand on her and...and...well, i guess i'd trade you for the beta on teflon...and have you autograph my t-shirt....what was the question, again???
p.s. we tape for all climbing. face, slabs, crack, steep stairwells, etc. never blown a tendon pully. not about to start now...!
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 19, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
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It's amazing that Dick "Tape is Aid" Cilley still associates with you.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Jul 20, 2006 - 12:30am PT
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After playing with 6 shots and 2 tendon, hand operations, a little tape is a smart idea!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:34am PT
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Being that all the hardest slabs in California are unrepeated (Helter Skelter,Someone You're Not) I think it's safe to say that slab climbing is harder and more rad than other specialties. What makes it so is the inherent difficulty of linking multiple low probability moves....Do ya feel lucky? Well do ya punk???
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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I'm working on getting a scanner, so I can digitize some slides from slab climbing around Squamish in the 1970s. I have lots of slides. Any recommendations on a good but not expensive scanner, able to do slides as well as documents/prints? Your reward will be life-extension for this thread.
Anders
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 20, 2006 - 02:24am PT
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Whata bout Cos & Burke's "Shining"? Unrepeated, too?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 20, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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Bruce - Cos not involved in "The Shining 12c" but it is certainly unrepeated. Johnny W. told me @ the Stonemasters Party that Hall of Mirrors is more accurately rated 13a not 12c. How about " The Believer 12a" unrepeated Bachar route on the Footstool? Probably conservatively 12c!!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 20, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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I stand corrected: No Coz involvement in the "Shining". Thought it was unrepeated. Looked up there once and was afraid. Remember that "Friday the Thirteenth" looked trivial in comparison. This afternoon? TRing in the gym, no slabs. Isn't there anyone out there today (apart from soloists) who like to live on fear?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
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It's really great to see "The Artist Formerly Known As Gramicci" on the sharp end! Getting sort of way runout...very cool.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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Cool photo - now I see how some high first bolts with no stance were drilled - standing on a snow bank!!
Guess you just hope that once the snow melts there isn't a ten foot blank overhang at the bottom...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:22pm PT
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Ah. But stepping across the 'schrund... Now, there was some objective danger!
You'll notice my gortex parka at the top of the "glacier"... Quite handy it was to sit on and lace-up the shoes. Ask Mike about kick-stepping in Acopas... ("You'll climb better if your shoes are comfortable.")
And, as for run-out... What that foreshortened photo doesn't show is the eleven (11) bolts between the ground and the first stance. Eleven! Stop Me Before I Drill Again, indeed. We're guessing the FA party could have easily drilled the next bolt by standing in slings. MG clipped several bolts, and each time he could reach down and remove the quick-draws for use higher up! This route is decidedly "out of character" with the rest of the stuff in the Portal.
Still... Old School bolts, 18-20 years old. Over-safe, but still risky. A face route, none the less.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 20, 2006 - 08:55pm PT
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this thread is in dire need of a photo of a hottie on slab. you guys all look old, gray, and puckered up.
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