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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, first ascent by Herb Laeger, Eric Richard and Vaino Kodas.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Sep 11, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Both sound sick. That arête sounds like a legend only talked about. Sick!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2013 - 02:41am PT
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So I'm not sure I could pull 5.11 Laeger style route right now, but if we can get a sucker, er I mean volunteer to lead, I'd do the hammering duty. Worse to worse, I might be able to borrow a stick clip from a buddy to thread a Tomahawk into the hanger and just aid it to get the work done.
Anyone feeling saucy?
Crab, you got it! There was some October talk of a Kings trip. Campgrounds empty, temps good.
Thx for the pic Kris. That one shows it well.
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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Leversee, Laeger and I did the 2nd ascent soon after the FA. There were flattened hangers up high due to the hideous drilling stances, not rockfall. They were just barely clippable. However, about a year after that, Leversee told me that rockfall axeed some bolts. That being said, that means some EXTREME runnouts, as it is a seriously runnout face route anyway, especially the higher pitches. The final anchor to rap off of is a single jammed knot to spice up the day!
 ec
Note: caveat emptor, the 11 is non-eventful, with pro. The real deal is the easier stuff higher up...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 11, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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If ec and Kris did ascents in the '80s with damaged hangers...and rockfall took out bolts in that time frame as well...then 25 years later you might be hunting for 1/4" sheared off bolt holes...yeehaw!
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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I believe there was a mix of 5/16" & 1/4" , however I don't think Eric was a fan of 1/4"
ec
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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There were flattened hangers up high due to the hideous drilling stances, not rockfall.
EC ... please explain?
How could the stances bend the bolts?
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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Micro Stances (desparate) + Poor Aim w/hammer (missing the head of the bolt) = Hitting Hanger and Flattening the Sh*t outta them.
Got it? I missed very few in my day, but having done the route I can understand, given the huge runnouts.
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 11, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Replacing those bolts will be an interesting task logistically.
Obviously the best way, which will allow for re-drilling the original holes - would be to go top down. Anyone looked to see if there is a possible route to the ledge in the more featured rock to either side?
In any case, if any of the original bolts are broken off flush it will be very difficult to find them. The SEKI guide gives us a count of 30, but who knows. I'll drop Herb a line and see if they made a topo.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 11, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
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Wow... never thought THAT could be the cause...
I have smacked my thumb more than once!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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possible route
SSSSSSSSShhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, say nothing.
I was not here. This post does not exist.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 12, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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You can 3rd class pretty high up to the left of the route, it's ledgy and broken up with bushes above that so there's probably an easier way but it may not be as nice of climbing. I don't remember what it looked like on the right side.
Or someone can just find out what it's like to do the Scarlet Slipstream FA all over again! (not it)
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ec
climber
ca
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Sep 13, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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Mungie,
Too late, word's out on the Web. However, the route's best protection is its location. LOL!
ec
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!