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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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Tony, you're about 140 miles off.
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Jeazzz Lauria, don't you have anything better to do on this beautiful Sat. afternoon, though it is alot stronger than a 1/4" button head...
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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How about something in the Pinnacles?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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So now we are chasing geography? How about something from Pratt's crack?
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Russ is on my ass for wasting a beautiful Saturday afternoon and I am guilt-ridden. My excuse is that Georg & Jill Bloksgaard are here and I'm bored.
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Hey, Off Topic: I just got back from a short run, here in Bishop 4:00 p.m. ... There appears to be a fire and lots of smoke coming straight north from the Palisades, thick and dirty looking. Any one know whats going on? Big Pine folks, Independence, Lone Pine? Does not look good.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Hennek nailed it as I knew he would if he got online. That bolt sat atop Boulder #1 at Stoney for decades. I don't know who or when it was screwed into the sandstone. Does anyone out there know?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 24, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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I'll take a guess.
Its likely quite old, possibly 50's. A rope anchor was not its original purpose. Someone drilled a hole in the top of the boulder, set the threaded end of the bolt into the hole and filled it up with cement. Voila! anchor.
The pipe anchor on top of Castle Rock appears to have been set into concrete in the top of the rock much the way I describe.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 24, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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In 1958, when I was 14 years old, I put my rope over that bolt, wrapped the dulfersitz around my body, and stood up to rappel. Then a bunch of people started yelling at me, afraid that by standing up where i was the rope would pull right off the top of that thing. Fortunately it didn't. I'm glad I made it through those early days.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Thanks Dick. So now we know it was there in '58.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 24, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
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Hell Lauria it was worth it to get the General on ST. the General and McClinski all in one day, shiz miracles never cease to amaze me. "Those oldies but goodies remind me of.............."
Happy Birthday to Joyce.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 24, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Thank you for all the posts on this subject!
Fascinating.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Aug 24, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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yep, never been to Stoney Point (but I have been to Stoney Middleton). Cool story, and cool memento. Thanks Don.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:34am PT
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I've seen bolts like this in various places from the old times,
a few I think around Boulder... I have seen similar devices
that were placed deep in a drilled holed, then epoxied or cemented,
but the top had a bent kind of ring, or maybe even a fairly nice
quality ring.... a few of these on the Third Flatiron from days of old.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 25, 2013 - 04:00am PT
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Don, Dennis, Pat, Joe all chipping in, so to speak. All people I looked up to when I started to climb.
This is why the Taco Stand is the best.
And I put that bolt in 1958, when I was two years old. Okay, I lie, I have never been to Stoney. I think Fred and Barney put it there, Wilma and Betty may have helped.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 25, 2013 - 11:29am PT
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very kool!
D.H nailed it bfore i could say it!
good ole stoney point!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 25, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Don... good one... I think the Female half is still there, why don't you send that part down here and we can reunite the two?
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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It's one of these.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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