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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jul 17, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
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Too bad it's going to be hot at Stone Mountain; the Great Arch Route is a real not-to-be missed classic. Nearby is No Alternative, which is also fun but a little runnout.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
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Jul 17, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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My most frequent go-to summer places:
Moore's
Hawksbill
N. side of Looking Glass
Ship Rock
Bouldering at Lost Cove, Grandmother, or Blowing Rock Boulders
Places I AVOID in the summer (general rule, but there are routes and times that'll avoid the heat even at these places):
Stone Mountain
The rest of Looking Glass
Shortoff
Laurel Knob
Rumbling Bald
Ashboro Boulders
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Climbnc
Trad climber
Carrboro, NC
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Jul 17, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Rumbling bald bouldering in the evening / early morning might be manageable (watch out for poison ivy). Otherwise I'd go along with the recommendations here. Either N Face of Looking Glass or head up to the Boone area where there's tons of good stuff to be found at more reasonable temps. Any way you do it, enjoy!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 17, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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North side of Looking Glass is what you seek.
15 -20 minute approach.
The Womb
Safari Jive
Cornflake Crack
All highly recommended!
Glass Menagerie is a fun C1/ 5.13b romp.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
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Ah, the Womb....you have to be a little clever with that one!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 17, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
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The Womb!!!
The North Side of Looking Glass!!!!
So good it made the cover of Harrison Shull's book.
The belayer is just below "the womb", two or three grunt/ scummy wriggles of 5.11-, think Houdini Move...
Followed of course by a 5.8/5.9 finger dihedral from heaven(shown). Don't do it in the sun, unless its January..
All in all, a fun, clean, classic 2 pitch climb that can be linked with a 60m rope.
Safari Jive first pitch is a fine 5.8 on its own, but the 2nd pitch at 5.11c is the business.
A burly layaway over a small roof on an offset fingercrack with good gear, followed again by outstanding finger work and trickery. Fun but way harder, for me, than Cornflalke Crack at 5.11a, which when wet feels like 5.12!!
Cornflake Crack is a classic 2 pitch Henry Barber route with something of a reputation.
For being BOLD!!
Couldn't imagine a lead without cams!
Some fun tips underclings and laybacks and one exciting/committing section where a fall would suck!! I know
At 5.11a CC is a good one to do when dry.... Trust me
Oh yeah... One other detail...
All three are within 100 FEET of each other!
But don't tell anyone. ;)
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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The Womb is definitely an excellent route. If you're not up to it, you can throw some long sling to french free the few moves on the crux second pitch.
First pitch of the Seal is an excellent choice too. Slab/underling with great gear.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 18, 2013 - 02:00am PT
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The Seal is excellent!, at 5.10-.
Also spitting distance from The Womb, Safari Jive and Cornflake Crack.
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Gene Pool
Trad climber
A trailer park in Santa Cruz
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Jul 19, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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Don't worry about the heat. Just go to the places everyone mentioned...just go at the right time of day. Ship Rock in the a.m., Nose area or sun wall of looking glass early in the morning. N. Side of Looking Glass after noon. Even Laurel Knob is climbable in the a.m. The rain's another story. Its been raining for the last month.
Stop by Looking Glass Outfitters in Brevard just outside the park and get some suggestions and buy a guidebook.
I would not miss Ship Rock near Boone. The Boardwalk is a great warmup as long as you can handle getting your first piece 40 feet up over easy climbing. If you are good with extending pieces, you can climb it in one pitch (bring up two ropes to rappel). If that's cake, head over to Airily Gardens. Mountain Project has good info on most areas.
If its raining go to Sunny Point Cafe in Asheville for bfast!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Blue when are you gonna be there?
Aug 1st thru the 6th.
edit: glad I brought out the Easters, this place is way West-centric.
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Wraith
climber
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Jul 23, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Hey all,
Looking for partners over the next couple months. I'm out from California for some training and can't pass up a chance to hit some of the rocks out east here. Comfortable leading up to 5.9 in Yosemite, Joshua Tree and Red Rocks. Not sure of the comparable rating out here.
Only was able to bring and rope and harness with me, so sadly short on gear to help the cause.
I'll be in the Asheville area and available on July 30th and 31st and again in September 17th and 18th and 24th and 25th
I'll be up in the Spruce pines area for 3 weeks end of August and beginning of September also but not sure of the days I'll have free.
Are there any climber group outings that anyone knows of also that I could contact and tag along with?
Send me an email and if we can make it happen a 6 pack of your choice as a starter thank you!
Hopefully the rain gods will be kind to me...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
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Went to Looking Glass Falls for the gratuitous photo-op with my boy. Also drove past the Looking Glass Rock trailhead. Apparently there are some raptor closures on the North Face, near the Glass Menagerie. FYI!
No climbing for me, just fishing, boating, and hangin' with the folks.
Awesome area around here though (Lake Lure), near Hendersonville. Woot!
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