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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 15, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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Ya for josh and John, get some!
I would give one of your large units a go.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 15, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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Thnx!
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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I would give one of your large units a go.
Tork-
All the handout prototypes are gone now. I do have 5 brand spanking new of the medium size and one of the small on hand but none of the large right now. I could make some if there was any interest in buying or trading for them.
Due to some recent bailing off exploratory climbs, I am running out of stoppers and bail biners. I might trade a drill holder for a handful of stoppers. I figure I need to get $80 for an SDS holder to make it worth my while and some folks have paid that much already. So, I am willing to trade for something I need of about that value.
Anyway, if anybody wants a drill holder and has something to trade or is willing to pay, let me know. I'm figuring $80 for the SDS holders and $50 for the A-Tapers holders. Money back, no questions asked one year return policy.
Postage is extra but you are always welcome to come by Morgan Hill and pick one up.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 10, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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So I drilled/widened a couple of holes this past weekend.
Banquo sent me the SDS type in the large size. The bit is really recessed in the hole.
This is awesome since the striking surface on the drill holder is closer to the wall.
Due to the SDS tool less design I wouldn't recommend these for re-drilling 1/4" holes. when enlarging holes the bit often binds. When this happens I try to crank harder or just pull the bit out of the hole a little and rotate. When I tried to pull the bit out the holster would just pop off and the bit would stay in the hole.
I ended up switching to a hurricane to finish the re-drill.
Once the 1/4" inner hole was eliminated Banquo's drill really hums along. I would love to see a hurricane style wrist strap instead of the micro attachment wire. The wire is very functional and doesn't get in the way, but I would prefer to have a wrist strap.
I'll report back after the next set of holes.
Thanks again!
 Luke
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 10, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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Culture, thx for the insight. I hadn't thought about binding and pulling outward on Banquo's design. Admittedly, I do more FA drilling than rebolting. (sad but true for now)
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crazymountaingoat
Big Wall climber
modesto, ca
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Sep 10, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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can i nominate myself? I would love to give them a test run. Ive pounded out about 50 bolts in the last year in all kinds of Granite. Would love to test drive a different drill on some more...
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Sep 10, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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Hey Luke,
Did your drill have a velcro strap over the middle of the foam grip? If so, you need to really cinch that sucker down. It keeps the ball stopper thingies engaged and then the bit will stay put. It also keeps the foam grip in place.
Clint and I replaced a few old 1/4" bolts this weekend with the same drill and had no problems with the bits coming out while fighting the binding effect. If you don't have a velcro cinch strap I'm sure Banquo will mail you one.
Bob
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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The idea was that the bits would be easy to remove which isn't always a good thing. The cinch strap will lock the bit in if you cinch it by the balls. Squeezing the handle by the balls with your hand will sometimes lock the bit in too. If you didn't get a strap I have some. I've also found some much better foam tubing. Better foam costs more too, about a buck an inch in the small quantities I'm buying.
I'm done giving away drill holders but I do have some of the short ones, the medium ones and a couple A-taper ones. I would happily part with the SDS ones for $80 and the A-taper ones for $50. Between materials, parts and tools I think I've got a couple grand into this little project so far. I'm pretty sure I'll never come out ahead.
Edit:
Also, I never use the loop when drilling. I work on the never drop anything principle. In fact, I don't think I've ever used the loop for anything but put one on because people seem to expect one. I'm working on making them spin easier. High end bicycle shifter cable is really nice since it is small diameter and has been run through a die or something so it has a really smooth surface. Can't afford to buy it for this application. Perhaps somebody has a bike shop and can collect any used cables from the trash.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Sep 10, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Squeezing the handle by the balls with your hand
Be careful, too much squeezing your handle might make you go blind.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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I imagine somebody yelling "it keeps pulling out." To which the reply is "squeeze the balls, that'll keep it in."
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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I'd be willing to trade one of my holders for any SDS holder in new or good condition. I want to do some comparison tests. Petzl, Hurricane, Pika but probably not the Fixe.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 10, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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I do have the cinch Velcro so I will try to really tighten it up.
I think the foam is fine. I didn't realize the velcro was functional for holding the bit in place.
I have no problems with the strap/wire rotating on my hurricane. I got it from a friend so I think it is still pretty new. Perhaps less than 50 holes drilled.
The only thing wrong with my my hurricane is a loose grip. I guess I just need to re-epoxy it.
Thanks for the tips guys. It really helps!! Hopefully I'll get better at re-drilling holes. Right now it seems that it takes almost as long as a fresh hole.
Luke
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Looks like I will be at the facelift staying at Yellow Pines. I'll bring some holders and drills in case anybody would like to try one out. If you want one, bring money or something to trade.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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In the post linked below, I speculated:
I think you could shear off the torque screws if you put a wrench on it and tried to. So far I haven't had any trouble twisting by hand but I've been drilling new bolts not replacing bolts.
So I decided to torque test a drill holder. I clamped an 8mm bit I don't need in a vise and cranked on it with an 8 inch long wrench. I pulled 60 lbs (40 ft-lb) when the bit twisted like taffy. I think my holders work well enough when torqued.
I still have 6 of the 4 inch long ones and 4 of the 3-1/2 inch long ones. Also a couple A-Taper holders.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2180408&msg=2180683#msg2180683
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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Hey there say....
Do you have any need for the old style rubber grips that fit the Rawl / FiveTen / FISH holders of yesteryear?
I have an assload of them and they need a project. The rubber is really dense and can be drilled or cut to fit all sorts of stuff.
Let me know.
Here is a pic stolen from 426:
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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Russ-
Those are nice and beefy. Somebody who isn't worried about size and weight might like a holder in a handle like that. I made a prototype holder a couple weeks ago that uses set screws like the Pika did. Mine uses two set screws which I think will be less likely to loosen than the single one in the Pika. I also used self locking Nyloc set screws which I don't think will loosen due to pounding. The nylon is visco-elastic and I think the very high viscosity will keep them from moving due to impact. Needs testing. Your handles would be perfect. Drill two holes for access to the set screws and glue the handle on. Did you glue them on or did they stay in place all by themselves?
The market for hand drills is incredibly small but if anybody wants one like this, they are much easier to make than my bayonet type.
Russ, send me a message if you are interested in my prototype. I could send it to you if you wanted to test it out.
I'm always interested in trading for stuff.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Email sent but it usually does not go through... send me one too
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!