Benton Crags

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Scole

Trad climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 24, 2013 - 01:00pm PT

Here is an article from the November/December 1983 issue of Sierra Life Magazine, reprinted here to provide a historical context for climbing in the Benton Crags:

Locals Only – Sierra Life Magazine

By Steve Kabala

With the unseasonably late opening of the Tioga Pass road on July 4th, most Eastern Sierra recreational activities were comparatively slow out of the gate, with sportsmen braving sub-arctic spring conditions to get the ball rolling.

Eastern Sierra climbers began preparations for the season by systematically exploring the Owen’s Valley – discovering and ascending new areas in anticipation of the day when the pass to Yosemite would clear, and allow new route development on National Park territory.
Bouldering in the Buttermilks ranged afield to the adjacent crags and bluffs. First to receive attention was the Windy wall, on the backside of the same formation ascended by Wavelength. The Cayenne Pepper route is a moderate, bolt-protected face line, while the nearby Dr. Zyme offers up hard hand (crank).

Some controversy is associated with Freedom of Choice. This 80’ 5.11 was evidently top-roped, then bolted on rappel, and finally lead free. So far no one is complaining, as the steep spire, southeast of Picnic Valley, has yet to see a repeat.

Face lines were also found at Little Egypt, on Bishop Creek. Buttermilk Pancakes ascends steep “lizard skin” flakes, and plates, so characteristic of the bouldering arena of the same name and vicinity.

A chance discovery lead the rapid and categorical development of a craggy granite ridge, north of Bishop, titled tentatively “Secret Area 1A”, later referred to euphemistically as the New Area. Activity here was fierce, with almost 100 new routes established on mostly superb rock of up to 300 feet in height.

For those who enjoy steep face climbing on solid edges, the New Area offers an early season alternative to the marginal skiing available locally prior to summer. Many pitches are quality, moderately graded adventures on or through sculpted knobs, cracks, and corners at a 5.6 – 5.9 standard. Harder routes include Competitive Edge, on Sports Challenge wall; Neanderthal, in the Oldavi Gorge: and the tubular Surfin’ Safari, on Locals Only rock. Currently one of the more touchy problems, at a 5.11 standard, is the Australopithecus Roof. Exploration of this area is one of contextural respect for the hunting implements and petroglyphs which remain as archeological reminders of our predecessors.

Speaking of predecessors, one of the great mysteries which faced climbers at the New Area from the onset was the discovery of an old rappel sling below, and east of the summit of Locals Only. This area is believed to have been inviolate, until the discovery of this gear (I also found a sling on the block below the roof on Australopithecus, S.C). To date, this is the only sign that pervious climbers had been through.

Some light was shed on this dilemma by Bishop resident Bob Harrington. Apparently he was one of a very few pioneers who had done a route or two in the late 1970’s. Nevertheless, no traces of prior ascents were found on any of the routes which were done this summer. There are also a number on lines which still await a first ascent.

Enough has been done in the region to define some ethical consideration for future parties. “The style of first ascents in this area” cautions Scott Cole of Sierra Summit Mountain Guides in Mammoth Lakes, “tends toward the use of RPs, small wireds’ and friends - making for committing climbing on steep rock with sometimes scarce protection”. While some routes will require the use of bolts, many lines exist which can be protected by nuts, slings on horns, and an occasional fixed piton.

phylp

Trad climber

Millbrae, CA

Aug 24, 2013 - 01:30pm PT

Your route is in Marty's and John's Ist 1994 ed. Mammoth Area RC GB, Pg 25

Based on the info in Steve's article, I wonder if they left your route out completely in the 3rd edition to minimize people going near the artifacts?

Which could have led people to mistakenly think the line was up for grabs.

Whatever the story, it is a lovely area. Crocodile Rock (which sounds like it used to be called Sports Challenge Rock), had only 1 or 2 bolts on the routes when I was there. Lovely climbs on thinish gear with easy to set up gear anchors, and a short easy walk down...

Todd Townsend

Social climber

Bishop, CA

Aug 24, 2013 - 04:48pm PT

Australopithecus was retrobolted at least two years ago, which was the first time that I visited that section of the Benton Crags. I can remember thinking that it was a lame bolted crack route at the time, as the route was indeed left out of the 3rd edition of the Mammoth Area book. It was only after obtaining a copy of the first edition that I realized that it also was a retro job. Good on you for cleaning that mess up!

This raises an issue that I think is important for any first ascentionist to be aware of. There are numerous routes that have been left out of the current editions of guidebooks over the years. Please try to consult previous editions, as well as the Bartlett guide, before inadvertently retroing someone's established route while putting up what you think is a new line. Specifically, there is a lot in Rock Creek and the Wheeler Crest that is not in the current guidebooks.

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Aug 24, 2013 - 04:58pm PT

Please try to consult previous editions, as well as the Bartlett guide, before inadvertently retroing someone's established route while putting up what you think is a new line.

That's going to be quite difficult, even for those who would want to. Those old books are hard to come by. Especially for the "new" generation, even if they want to respect the old routes.
It's almost as if we need some universal symbol at the BASE of existing clean routes. Although I sure can't imagine what that would be without offending many (including myself).

Scole

Trad climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 24, 2013 - 05:19pm PT

When we were developing the Benton Crags it was common to make a tiny cairn at the base of routes that had been done, so you wouldn't waste time climbing established routes.

During the 70s and 80s, there was a tradition of not reporting routes in the Eastern Sierra, but you can be pretty sure that if its a natural line, it has probably been done.

Sport climbers should (as was mentioned above) check older editions of the guidebook before placing fixed gear, and expect to have retro-bolts removed. Bolts and chains on new routes should be camouflaged as well, as people other than climbers visit the area at times.

Urmas

Social climber

Sierra Eastside

Aug 24, 2013 - 06:12pm PT

While it's entirely up to the author of a guidebook to decide it's content, a comprehensive book that serves as a reliable repository of climbing history would be a valuable resource for the climbing community.

Scole

Trad climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 24, 2013 - 06:54pm PT

What Urmas said. Headed back up tonight or tomorrow am to fix it up right.

F10

Trad climber

Bishop

Aug 25, 2013 - 04:09pm PT

2nd that on Hair Raiser,

Pretty lame on bolting up a previously established route. Do a little homework.
I liked the original nature of Locals Only Rock without the convenience bolt anchors on top.
It kept with the style of the wall.

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Aug 25, 2013 - 04:20pm PT

The cairn is a good idea!

Todd Townsend

Social climber

Bishop, CA

Aug 26, 2013 - 12:25am PT

For anyone who's interested, we have copies of the old guidebooks at Wilson's in Bishop. Feel free to ask at the register and you can peruse/photocopy whatever we've got.

crusher

climber

Santa Monica, CA

Aug 26, 2013 - 12:59am PT

Did someone go and retro- bolt Hairraiser again??!! We did it after retro bolts were removed (the first time?) some 7 years ago maybe? Big stink (rightly so) about that one.

Scole

Trad climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 29, 2013 - 03:31pm PT

Here is an update on the state of Australopithecus and nearby climbs.

I removed all of the bolts from Australopithecus, including the convenience anchor. The sport climb to the left had the first bolt (next to crack) removed, as well as the rotting sling draw, and chain draw at the lip.
The convenience anchor on Neanderthal/ Lucy was also removed.

Please think when you leave fixed crap hanging all over the place at remote crags. It's ugly and un-necessary, plus it pisses the locals off.

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 29, 2013 - 03:41pm PT

Tony and I showed up there not knowing what to expect four or five years ago, and it had a wonderful and kind of remote feel. I think we saw a Blue Gray Gnatcatcher soon after getting out of the car (Tony IDs those). I don't remember seeing any bolts, and the one climb I lead was fun and a little stiff (they all seem that way now). Natural pro abounded and was available enough for even my enfeebled leading head. Anyway, not being a local, I don't think I really get a vote, but adding bolts there is an indication lameness beyond all comprehension and is quite possibly cretinous. Maybe a guide or a 12 year old?

What Scole said above.