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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Salamanzer or Ron, I remember trying to top rope a splitter finger crack on a steep boulder that skippy was calling Dynamite crack. Its not in the set of topos I have and I was wondering if you had any info on it. I think he said Jay had done it. I can't recall but I think it was by Sargeant rock somewhere. Mid range 5.12 or maybe 12+ overhanging and as good it gets.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Dynamite is only maybe 35 feet but damn good.
I did a couple of routes left of STFTHOS. Just left is Walking on the moon. Its shorter than Controls but still really good. Its got some sobering stretches as well, at least it used to. Another one we did is to the right of Welcome named West of Venus. Its got scary climbing to the second? or third bolt but reasonable after that and super quality.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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Never did STC but according to what I'd heard from Skippy and others who'd done it back then, it wasn't too bad once you clipped the first bolt. At least compared to the other routes on that face.
Skippy claimed to have done the true FA of STC but never got credit for it. He said its origional name was White Lightning. He told me Jay and Crawdaddy had 4 or 5 bolts in on the first pitch and he actually completed it, and went on to finish bolting the entire route. Iv'e always wondered about this. Maybe Jay or Paul have more info about the history of this route.
I don't know for sure that anything down there has been retro bolted but I certainly hope not. At least not without the consent of the FA team. I'd talked to Will Cotrell years ago and he said they had replaced a lot of the bolts on those routes but I can't recall exactly which ones.
Even still, it wouldn't keep me away from the place. It shouldn't you either Ron. I'm sure there are still plenty of routes down there that deliver if you want to get scared. I for one right now, couldn't repeat most of the routes I'd done down there w/out getting myself badly hurt or worse.
Been telling myself for years that I'd get down there soon and replace some of the old quarters inchers we placed on those routes. Most are spicy enough without the manky bolts. Hopefully I can find some time this year. That canyon is gorgeous.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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May 17, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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WHEN did that route get MORE bolts??
It didn't, it's always had 7 bolts on the first pitch. I have a picture almost identical to yours showing the first bolt in the same place. Your leader is standing at the second, he's looking for the third.
Ken, I think I know what crack you're talking about. Don't have time now but I'll respond later tonight.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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I'm thinking the bolt count debate may just be getting started
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 17, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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The right crack of Gemini Cracks is 10- so that's probably what they were talking about.
I replaced the old 1/4" on STCFTHOTS, definitely more than 3 on that pitch, I'd have to go look at my notes but I'd bet Chad is exactly right. Don't worry if you remember incorrectly Ron, you'd join a long list of prominent names who swear they had fewer bolts when every bolt is the same ancient mank and the bolts are at the only stances for miles and the routes were super runout even with "more bolts than the FA"...
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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Greg,
Kudos to you for doing that work. Those routes badly need it. You guys happen to do any replacement work on West of Venus or Mad World on the Main Dome?
Also, I'm very curious to hear about the FA of STC. Skippy was adamant about doing that thing first. It used burn him up that the name was changed and he was not credited. Be nice to hear Jay or Crawford chime in. Or anybody else for that matter who may have information about it.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 17, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Easy to get 40 feet of air when the bolts are 20 feet apart...I know I've done exactly that (especially if your belayer doesn't know to reel in some slack real quick...)
Edit: KP, replaced all bolts (21 bolts) on West of Venus, got basically that whole area in '98, Will Cottrell led STC on the old bolts to fix lines then I spent a couple days getting most everything. Not sure on Mad World.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Greg,
Wow! Awesome man. Thanks a ton. That saves me the recon headache. I'll focus on Mad World instead.
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G Zeus
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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May 17, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
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KP, you remember correctly. That excellent crack is there. It's farther down the aqua duct. I remember it being rattly fingers; could only get part of my hand in it and lost a lot of skin. But I could be wrong. It's been almost twenty years since I did it.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 17, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Sounds about right, off size overhanging slugfest.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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May 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Ron did you get my message?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 18, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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KP, you're welcome. Found the detailed notes, looks like there were 23 original bolts and I replaced 21, removing 1 extra bolt at each of the two 3-bolt belay stations. Same deal on STC - two of the three stations were 3-bolt belays and they are now 2-bolt. I can see why you wanted three 1/4" bolts on those belays!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 18, 2013 - 04:15am PT
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Greg,
Awesome job. The batch of 1/4 inch screw top bolts we used on Venus was softer metal (too soft) due to the fact that Skippy had some studs actually sheer on his FA of Welcome the year prior. I remember the studs at the first belay bending to one side as I drove them in. I think we had a few benders on the upper pitches as well. Always worried about those bolts.
Salamaner,
Iv'e got the bug, hoping to carve out some time this summer. Mad World is a classic and needs rebolting. Cotrell gave it a bogus rap in his topo summary because its extremely run out but like most on that wall, this route is super high quality. I've got gear as well, Hilti with two packs and a good number of bolts with hangars. Not too confident about extracting the old quarter inch button heads we used on that route w/out snapping the heads off though. If you don't mind i'll shoot you an email if I can get it together.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 18, 2013 - 04:51am PT
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Greg is the man! I may hit Calaveras this summer. Any water near-by?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 19, 2013 - 04:00am PT
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Nice Jeebs,
wish I could say the same. Its been ground hogs day down here. The monotony of city life.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jul 10, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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The other Cal DOME. HIDDEN WALL.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ken,
I remember trying to top rope a splitter finger crack on a steep boulder that skippy was calling Dynamite crack. Its not in the set of topos I have and I was wondering if you had any info on it. I think he said Jay had done it. I can't recall but I think it was by Sargeant rock somewhere. Mid range 5.12 or maybe 12+ overhanging and as good it gets. I have done this one. My fingers are thin, so I fit it very well.
It's below Sargent Rock, on the approach.
In the lower right corner of this topo/map:
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/sargent.pdf
I think G Zeus is describing a different (less thin) crack near the aqueduct between Sargent and Silver Streak, which is off fingers, and Mike posted a photo of it. Mike called it Staircase Crack.
You've mentioned these FAs:
68. Tijuana Brass FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
72. Walking on the Moon FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
73. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun FA(first 4-5 bolts of p1): Paul Crawford, Karl McConachie, 1981
FA(complete): Dick Richardson
74. Welcome to My Nightmare FA: Dick Richardson
75. West of Venus FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
132. Windwalker FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
202. Mad World FA: Dick Richardson, Ken Ariza, 1984
Did you do them all with Skippy?
Did you do any others, such as Solar Panel?
This is on my page which I've recently updated:
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/index.htm
[Updated again with Ken's info below, January 6]
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Hi Clint,
Staircase Crack looks really good. That's not the same crack I tried with Skippy years ago though. I remember it to be on lighter colored rock and steeper. More of a sharp edged fracture that splits a 30 to 40 foot boulder. The crux is off fingers to thin hands. Skippy said it was at least mid range 5.12 and he was calling it Dynamite Crack. He said he'd thought Jay did the FA.
I did the FA of Solar Panel with Katie Ingalls in the winter of '85
As for the other routes-
68. Tijuana Brass- I did this route with Tim Maas and John Larsen. I remember that Tim was able to just barely keep me from cratering the belay ledge upside down when I took a sliding pendulum fall while trying to get bolt #2 or 3 started.
69. Walking on The Moon- KA, Skippy and his girlfriend at the time Kathy Bennet.
75. West of Venus-KA, Skippy
132. Wind Walker- KA, Tim Maas, John Larsen
Also, Myself, Tim Maas and John Larsen did the FA of a one pitch route in 1985 called Sling Shot 5.10 a/b. The route involves climbing protected by bolts and slung knobs. Its on the slab that starts off of a tier up and right of the Sea of Holes/Wind Walker Wall.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Wow - thanks, Ken. Very cool to get the real names after so long.
The boulder crack I did had already been done before and had a 1/4" bolt or two on top. It was very thin and less than 40' - more like 20'.
I wonder if the other crack can be found - it sounds pretty good.
Maybe G Zeus knows it, if it's not the Staircase Crack.
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