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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:41pm PT
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Let's not mix up our abbreviations Flatlander.
The term is in the years BC (before cams). Anybody trying to clean climb the pure parallel cracks of desert sandstone prior to their appearance knows what a pivotal event that was.
It truly was the dawn of an era.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
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Didn’t Dale Bard have an article on jamming in a late 70s GPIW/Chouinard catalog? Someone should scan a page or two of that.
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jun 26, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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I think the title is Pumping Cracks.
I'd love to read that one again.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jun 26, 2006 - 04:36pm PT
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Nice scans of the Dolt stuff. The stuff had great lines not to mention the ad copy. I wish I still had some of that gear.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 26, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
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Best stuff ever made. I still DO have some Doltpegs and keyhole hangers but I'm so scared of dropping them that I don't use them. That either makes a lot of sense, or none at all.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Jun 26, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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Those skyhooks cost ~$42.00 each in 2006 dollars.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park, Calif.
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Jun 26, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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I still have my copy of the famous Chouinard Catalog. I got it in the mail from Great Pacific, so the postage stamp with the date are still readable.1973. I was "pretending" to go to school up at Chico State, Northern Calif, while my folks lived in Petaluma. Boy, did I get an education there, but it wasn't schoolastic!
That single publication (and the info there-in ) changed my climbing head as much as anything ever did.
Tony
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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damn. how did i miss this thread? tarbaby, you gotta e-mail me when a scannerfest like this is in the offing. i got it ALL, know whut i'm shayin'????
going of to bed right now, but [inset arnold voice here] "hi'll bhe bhack.......!"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 10:51pm PT
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Bedtime?
Tuff day at the office Monsiuer?
Milk & Cookies kept you up late last night?
Your move Beebs,
Get teh werk please...
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Jun 26, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Sheridan never knew Chris Mac, but this is uncanny, don't you think?
Here's one that was never published, as far as I know.
RIP
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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Dale Bard's article (pumping cracks) was in the 1978 GPIW Catalog (lookin' at it now) pages 37-42.
back inside cover shot was Ron Kauk on Sky, credit Werner Braun.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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the librian in grand county managed to con chouinard into donating his collection to the new library in moab...some great, never-before-seen sheriden 'toons scribbled into the margins of some of those books....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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kauk on sky.
back in the day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 11:13pm PT
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Man O Man,
First time I eyeballed that shot of Ron on Sky,
I knew I was looking at something mythic.
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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One word:
Foamback
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 26, 2006 - 11:56pm PT
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Isn't the 'Greetings from big Mac,' one the centerfold from the 1974(?) calender in Summit that featured the months in alphabetical order?
Yesterday I was up to the armbar ranch, where I keep those things and didnt' grab it, or Games Climbers Play with the sheep cartoon d'oh, d'oh!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2006 - 12:22am PT
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Foamback, Ugh.
Darn near filled the whole rucksack with one piece.
Big Al Bartlett probably had the longest lived piece in existence; all tattered, fullaholes and homeless garb lookin'.
And I don't know what the big fuss was all about with pile, it's not like that toilet seat muff cloth ever caught on or anything...
Hey JayBro:
What and Where is the arm bar Ranch!
Can I punch Dowgies 'N Stuff there?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jun 27, 2006 - 12:30am PT
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Tried to scan the Mar. 73 Summit cover, with a Sheridan drawing
It shows a Chock sporting boxing gloves with a Piton KO'd with a background similar to Larry's post above.
I'am a tard when it comes to this sh#t, it has to be out there in cyberspace somewhere.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 27, 2006 - 01:15am PT
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The armbar ranch is the only place in plumas county ca with an extant foamback cagoule. And a wooden ow roof crack. Gotta bring yer own doggies but you can heat up your brand on the wood stove.
Photobucket is currently balking at loading my vintage scans. hang on
Okay here's the first of a series
below, from '73 ascent
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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This is excellent stuff!
I have "Baron von Mabel's Backpacking", "The Climbing Cartoons of Sheridan Anderson" (both by SA), "Belaying the Leader" (Sierra Club, 1956), and "Ropes, Knots and Slings for Climbers" (Walt Wheelock, La Siesta Press, 1960). Plus a near-complete set of Mountain magazine. If I had a scanner, and a good copyright lawyer, there might be some good editions to audition to addition. (Though some might fit better in the 70 year old guidebook thread.)
If I remember rightly, the Anderson cartoons were up to the mid 1970s or so, and so may not directly lampoon Stonemasters. When I have a chance, I'll look in Mountain for Stonemaster references - I know there are some. Be interesting to find the first use of the name.
Anders
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