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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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So it seems that it is okay to climb there, just don't kill some tourons.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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That tall wall to the left as the Falls trails starts heading right-ish: Steve Herrero and Peter Spoecker did a route in there and thought it was superb. I don't remember anything else. This was long before the area had its big rockfall. That would have been in the mid Sixties. Since we were on the subject of Peter Spoecker on another thread just recently.
God, the "new guide". What a project and "long felt want", as they used to say when my Dad was a child.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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Peter,
The FAs for those guys listed in the guidebooks are:
1549. The Surprise FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
1558. Bacchigaloupe Wall FA: Pete Spoecker, Steve Herrero, 4/1965
So this only goes through the "Second Tier".
The earliest FA in the books on the tier above the trail is RF in 1966.
So if Spoecker and Herrero extended their climbs above the trail, it didn't make it into the books (yet).
The project does seem a bit epic at times, but we've actually been making some good progress.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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the NPS would like to reduce climber traffic in the corridor to reduce the possibility of adverse climber/hiker interactions... so they requested that the routes not be in the various guides...
But as far as I know, they did not close climbing in that area.
You can see how close the trail is to the cliff, on both sides...
see the thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=553656 and links there in.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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fire it off to us... and whatever happens happens...
(it's easier to modify digitally rendered topos...)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Eric,
Is that the same climb that has been called Hokey Swiller? (Swillar?)
I don't have a topo for it.
We have another route called "Trailside Slasher" by Tucker Tech and Steve Tech, on the short slab west of Galloping Consumption, just right/east of the springs at the trail high point before it descends to Charlie Brown Apron. (Roger and I replaced the bolts on this slab last summer also).
Joe and I climbed a corner above No Teats and then headed left to reach the top of Chain Reaction to fix ropes. We found a fixed pin belay in the corner up and left of No Teats.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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I looked for a shot to show the width of the bench with trail below Charlie Brown Apron, but almost all my shots are looking up!
Here's one which shows Kat and Joe standing on the trail.
I'm just slightly below them and several feet away on the wide grassy bench.
You can also see there is some ground and grass between the trail and the slab itself.
Not enough space to protect from a bouncing rock, but fine for a sliding leader.... :-)
Here's a related thread with Mark Chapman's story of the first ascent of Chain Reaction (how it got that name):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/258750/Charlie-Brown-Apron-Yosemite
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)? Anyone done that route?
5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day in the park.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 19, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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(note to self, never climb with klaus up there again)
I am particularly OBSESSED with a line only apparently I can see. I have always wanted to check out that awesome cave, as well.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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my eye sees a lot of lines up there Michelle...
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 19, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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We need to compare notes Ed. I'm planning an assault for next year.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 19, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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what about lower down...
Blackout
Guiding Light
They going in?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:06am PT
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Steve,
In Ed's photo can you walk around to the top of the falls from Diversion (10a)? If you walked right, you would reach the Falls Trail below the Via Aqua level. If you knocked stuff off on that walk, it would bomb the trail below.
Walking left & up - looks like a long bushwhack - see xRez, Union Point, Glacier Point or Half Dome Summit views.
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html
Rob,
what about lower down...
Blackout
Guiding Light
They going in?
Yes.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Me and Dale did second ascent of Seaside,
You told us to go there warbler.
It's all your fault ...... :-)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Seaside looks like beautiful clean rock, and more of a buffer of ground between its base and the trail.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 19, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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... 5 open books -> Salgenella-> Diversions would be a hell of day ... There is crack lines on the SW face of Eagle Peak too, if you wanted more.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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Damn straight I want more....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 19, 2013 - 04:14am PT
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I was just in the Deep Cleft today and took a talus hike up one of the watercourses leading out and up, up, up from the C4 parking lot all the way to where it intersected with the trail.
I took this shot way before I started, earlier in the morning. Wanda Verboten.
Dawdling and taking the obscurest photos in the labyrinth of oak and kin, TAKING MY OWN SWEET TIME, I arrived at a good place to sit for a few hours till I had to descend.
But as topological fate would have it, I was only about fifty yards from the switchbacks that come down from the top of Selaginella. Little did it occur to me that I was that high. But the photos prove it. Well, I had had a safety meeting with my alter ego, Hans Napoleon Solo, so it's little wonder I was very happy to have come across the trail, because by this time, my knees were not happy at all, and my asthma has been racking me today, too...yesterday and today...
There's a fall and a watercouse on the trail a bit higher than where I intersected it. These shots are of the fall which you won't see from that section of trail, due to trees out in the switchbacks, obviously. Nor do you have any perspective from the base of the falls.
Today was gorgeous in the Valley but real cold this morning...yesterday morning...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2013 - 05:23am PT
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I found a nest of baby Mountain King Snakes near the base of that route, 8 or 10 pencil sized guys.
Kevin, that's cool, especially since Mountain King Snakes love to eat rattlers.
Yeah, I did Seaside with Claude Fiddler 1975, it is a cool route, when I said little roof, it really is more of sort of a bulge, okay tiny roof, but fun.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 21, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Walleye, your fly's open.
Z-cellent shot!
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