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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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That's funny Ksolem, Leversee and I hung out at a/ the school teacher's house
Too. We sat in the living room while their kid practiced their violin lesson. Kind of a unique situation.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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As I recall, he guys name was John? Can't think of his last name. Herb would know. Something like Scow?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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What about that bear hugging Hilda, or whatever it is route, Coz?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?
John
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Loving all the posts. Good info. Hopefully it will raise some interest. Have to look for that soda machine on the way out next time.
Jaybro, hit me up next time you go back to the flake. I would love to go if I am free. Prob just be a belayer on stuff in the 12s but can yard up any rope...haha.
Ksolem, Wedding Wall definitely drew our attention as well soo many other spots up there but because of time restraints and and the PO we decided on DU Dome. Put up No Oakey .10b (posted on RC.com). How did your approach start, up or down?
Can't wait to go back. Prob have another 3-4 weeks before it gets hot.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?
That doesn't sound right. I'll ask Herb.
Davey we went up from the bottom, walked up the dirt road and then up the hill. But like I said here was a fire which cleared the PO...
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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The school teacher was John, quite a character. He used to bicycle from his house up to the top of the penstock road and back, after school. We climbed some gulleys from there up to the top of the bluff one time, but I never did any routes from there. While you guys were really hitting that wall I was slacking off and mostly kayaking. Now the kayaking seems to be mostly done and I am climbing a lot again. Pretty stoked to be feeling good on rock.
John and Coco Scow first met Mike Borrelli and I as we descended from climbing Crescent Crack at Antenna Rock; the obvious rock with an antenna, above the road on a sharp corner directly above Balch Camp. I and my family stayed with the Scows a lot. Many climbers and kayakers and canyoneers also benefited from their generosity. They live in Fresno now and the school sits pretty much abandoned.
The daughter, whom you heard practicing, Eva Scow, has become an accomplished musician specializing in mandolin, playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XoIFmBMww4
http://www.evascowmusic.com/?page_id=2
Thought you might enjoy this side note.
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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We named every pitch on the climb for some reason - coz
LOL, that's an M.O. of Leversee. I sorta picked up on that from him.
 ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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...playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.
That is so beautiful! Thanks.
Paul, did we meet once at the bridge over the North Fork there once around 1992? I stopped and chatted with some paddlers there, and there is this vague memory bubbling to the surface of meeting someone with your name. I'd have been driving a robins egg blue sports car...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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What a cool thread this has turned into! I'll heads you up for sure next time davey Tree. I'm in Moab now and it won't be till the fall though.
'"John" the sounds right, I think I remember the penstock bicycling story.
Again cool hat this thread took off other ones I started on this have been kind of limp sauce....
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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That is quite possible Kris. I would have been up there a lot at that time and if somebody was kayaking the NF that year, pretty good odds it was me. I would not remember the color of your car though.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 29, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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I would not remember the color of your car though.
Fair enough, I don't remember the color of your boat either..:-)
Laeger and I did several good one pitch routes left of that Wedding Wall too. We got into a Buckminster Fuller theme for names, I think we called one the Dimaxicon and another the Horrendicon. That one was fairly hard. I recall going up first, and at what I thought was a nice stance at a reasonable height I started to get set up to place a bolt. Herb yelled up at me "What are you doing!?" I thought it was fairly obvious. Then I hear "You have to go up higher, we have reputations to uphold!!" I thought that was a pretty funny remark to make considering that this climb would never, in all likelihood see another ascent. I mean who the heck is going to do that approach to do single pitch routes? I came down and let Herb go up. He went waaay up...
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Man, this place has been so quite unless you are in the know and even then all the routes, stories and history has been mostly unreported. Keep it coming. Let's hear some more stories. Love it. Other than good scenary and climbing, the ones I have is getting PO and flat backing it on a slab while goofing around by the creek while a bit intoxicated. Maybe next weekend will bring more stories.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 29, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
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you rap in from the top. 10 min to the top from the car.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Scott, that's what I hear but haven't tried top down yet. I have been told there are several rap routes on both sides of the main bluff. Anyone have good directions to the starts? I prob won't make the top until fall. Snow blocking road to top rt now and when it melts I will be jumping on other projects up 168.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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Sounds like The Sun also Rises should be on my bucket list. Need to get in good shape for something like that though. Every time I get up there my mind goes wild with all the possibilities. Good to know what already done. Cuts down on the scouting for new lines.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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The link Rene' (Radish) posted above has some info about the rap route and a topo for The Sun Also Rises
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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It's been 15 years but as far as the wall goes L-R
The sun also rises IV 5,12
Raptors of the steep V 5.10 A2
Nettle/ Ferman IV 5.11
Under the knife IV 5.12b
50 lbs of crack IV 5.12
Ten IV 5.10
Face that launched a thousand clips IV 5.12
Mellenium falcon IV 5.11 AO
thats all I can remember
I hope more has been done
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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Leversee is the man to talk to. He painted small paint dots on the trees on the top to get you to the start of the raps. One time however we didnt make it to the top and had to do some nasty sh#t and a few pitches to get back to the top. found some old pins along the way.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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Limping Crab: That photo looks like paradise. Thanks for the inspiration!
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