Aiding on the Eiger
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AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
My friend climbed the 1938 route with a Scottish guy who had never been on an alpine route before. Talk about trial by fire.
Great video, very real.
alext

Big Wall climber
Moscow
Mar 29, 2013 - 06:03am PT
There is a story on first ascent of the route in Russian: http://www.stolby.ru/news/2006/20060128/Eiger.asp
The essential part in provision - 4 liters of brandy for 4 men. Team reported that route was extremely hard and dangerous, but they saved some resources – they brought 1 liter of brandy back. They met bad weather and serious rock falls.
The leader of the team Yevgen Dmitryenko has a nickname “kamikaze” and known as one of the best aid climbers in Russia. All members are from Siberian city Krasnoyarsk, this city is famous for hundred years tradition of solo free climbing on nearby rocks Stolby.
To Endy Kirkpatrick: a chapter about Reticent Wall from your book “Psycho Vertical” was translated in Russian. We love it very much and dream your books will be translated and published in Russian. All you do - is very inspiring!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 29, 2013 - 07:06am PT
I kind of like uli stecks method of climbing the Eiger. can't imagin wanking arround on hard aid on the side of a big mountain where the adage go fast and keep the rope moveing or freeze your partner to death has a very real truth to it.....
Messages 21 - 23 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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