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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2006 - 12:07am PT
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If I sum the number of pitches for the FA's in each year I get the plot:
which is much the same as the number of FA's per year...
before 1957 average 10 pitches per year of FA
1957-1969 76 pitches
1970-1984 152 pitches
1985-1991 271 pitches
1992-2005 19 pitches
the green dotted line in the plot is the average over these periods.
if Eric is right, then there should be 1480 new climbs since 1992 representing 4065 pitches (average of 2 pitches per climb).
Maybe the 1970-1984 period is the "Bridwell Era"
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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Ed, I believe that I've put up at least 150+ pitches in the Valley with my good partners, and I know Coiler, Jay, Bernie, Brian(Way), Scott Burk, & Sean Joans have put up a lot too,so the numbers might be in the thousands, given all the other people who are active doing FA's.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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Klaus put up a number of climbs, no? Coiler must have established two-hundred to three-hundred. Well, that is if you believe his spray! (Sorry oh coiled one, I couldn't resist).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
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I believe that there may be 1000+ new routes since 1991... it is entirely possible given what I hear, especially from a good source like Eric who's connected into the "FA scene", as well as comments on this Forum, e.g. from klaus whose count in the spread sheet does not equal his own count.
Any thoughts on how we might better communicate (if that is desirable) new route production? Right now the burden is on Donny Reid who is the recepient of the reports and the editor of the guide.
Melissa said that Brian Knight had a role in the past. Don't know how the publishers feel about some of this info being public though.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 13, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
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It looks as if no one has had an abiding interest in collecting the FA information since the early 1990s. And therein lies the issue with guidebooks that are based on 'the best of...' rather than complete summaries.
I think it is cool to be able to look at Ed's chart and see in the peaks the year Sacherer hit the Valley or Pratt got out of the Army. I also like being able to point to the data when I tell people that Mark Klemens and Barry Bates sparked the free climbing craze in 1970s and energized Bridwell and everyone else.
This is additive and takes nothing away from anyone else's contributions. And this is not to say that others would not have done the same, but people came to the Valley not for virgin cliffs but to do their routes, routes that the prior generation walked by, shaking their heads, muttering, "I don't think so."
It is a cool story. I have the feeling that there are others like it in the years since, but it is not available to those of us on the sidelines.
Too bad, in my opinion.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 13, 2006 - 04:55pm PT
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No doubt tons of new routes being done but much like Josh how many are worth a sh*t. Maybe a count of routes with quality ratings would be more useful. But then I'm more of a quality vs quantity person. Donnie says new guide imminent!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 13, 2006 - 04:59pm PT
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How immenent?
i.e. Should we send him the stuff that we've done over the last couple of years or is it already time to wait for the next edition?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 13, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
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Yo Melissa, Can't speak directly for Don but I would always assume he is the man for reporting new routes to - de facto!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 13, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
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Of course...It seemed Way was helping him curate the info before, and J told him whatever he could, but it's been a couple of years. If the book is already at the printers, then there's no rush to draw up more recent topos. If the book is headed there in a few months, then perhaps there is.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 01:10am PT
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The 1956-1957 bump up seems to be attributable to Mark Powell.....
The other bumps are harder to attribute...
1975
1978
1985
1986
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2006 - 01:55am PT
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I was emailing with Roger about FFA's in the Valley and noticed that they seemed to be episodic... so here is the number per year from the database...
The 1960 peak is from 8 FFAs and included Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger, Steve Roper (2), Royal Robbins (2), Dave Rearick, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost (2) and Dick McCracken.
The 1964 peak has 12 climbs, 11 of them had Frank Sacherer on the FFA, the only one without was a Kamps/Higgins FFA. Sacherer partners included John Morton, Chuck Pratt (2), Tom Gerughty (3), Wally Reed (2), jeff Dozier, Jim Bridwell, Bob Kamps, Andy Lichtman and Don Tlshaw. 1965: Tom Gerughty, Chris Fredricks(3), Chuck Pratt, Tom Higgins, Mike Dent, Steve Thompson, Frank Sacherer(2), Eric Beck, Ed Leeper, Greg Schaffer, Henry Mitchel. And 1966 John Hudson(2), Chris Fredricks(2), Galen Rowell, Tom Fender, Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, Eric Beck, Mark Klemens, Tom Kimbrough, Roman Laba, Royal Robbins..
1973 has a collection of climbers, Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, Kevin Worrall (2), George Meyers, John Dill, Phil Gleason, Lou Dawson (2), Don Peterson(2), Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell, Ron Kauk, Steve Wunsch, Mark Chapman, Pete Livesey, Andreas Maurer, Jim Donini, John Bragg. 1974: Bob Finn, Chris Falkenstein, John Long(2), Pete Livesey, Ron Fawcett, Jay WIlson, Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar, Vern Clevenger, George Meyers, Tom Carter, Mark Chapman, Art Higbee. The 1975 peak has a more focused set: John Bachar(3), John Long(3), Ron Kauk(3), Tobin Sorenson(2), Tim Sorenson, Dale Bard(2), Werner Braun, Pete Livesey(3), Trevor Jones, Vern Clevenger
1985: Steve Schneider, Rob Oraveitz, Peter Croft, Dan Phillips, John Oakerman, Ron Kauk(2), John Yablonski, Kim Carrigan, Jonny Woodward(2), Maria Cranor
And finally 1988:Elliot Robinson(2), Steve Annecone(2), Clint Cummins(2), Todd Skinner, Paul Piana, Dan Nguyen Dave Schultz, Scott Cosgrove. 1989: Dave Sessions, Tucker Tech(2), Walt Shipley(4), Xavier Bongard, Kevin Fosburg(2), Elliot Robinson, John Harpole, Keith Reynolds, Alvino Pon, Clint Cummins, Joel Ager
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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"complete" FFA list for the Valley from the spread sheet
Frank Sacherer 16
Walt Shipley 10
John Long 8
Ron Kauk 6
Steve Roper 6
Chris Fredricks 5
Dave Schultz 5
Pete Livesey 5
Royal Robbins 5
Scott Cosgrove 5
Chuck Pratt 4
Don Reid 4
Elliot Robinson 4
Jim Bridwell 4
John Bachar 4
Kevin Fosburg 4
Ray Jardine 4
Tom Gerughty 4
Bob Kamps 3
Clint Cummins 3
Dale Bard 3
Mark Chapman 3
Tobin Sorenson 3
Tom Frost 3
Tom Higgins 3
Tucker Tech 3
Wally Reed 3
Alan Watts 2
Andy Lichtman 2
Art Higbee 2
Barry Bates 2
Chris Falkenstein 2
Don Peterson 2
Eric Beck 2
Galen Rowell 2
George Meyers 2
Jim Donini 2
John Hudson 2
Jonny Woodward 2
Kevin Worrall 2
Kim Schmitz 2
Linda McGinnis 2
Lou Dawson 2
Loyd Price 2
Mark Hudon 2
Mark Klemens 2
Mark Powell 2
Max Jones 2
Merle Alley 2
Pat Ament 2
Paul Piana 2
Rich Calderwood 2
Rik Rieder 2
Roger Breedlove 2
Steve Annecone 2
Steve Wunsch 2
Todd Skinner 2
Vern Clevenger 2
Werner Braun 2
Yvon Chouinard 2
Alan Bard 1
Alan Bartlett 1
Alan Roberts 1
Alex Huber 1
Alvino Pon 1
Andreas Maurer 1
Augie Klein 1
Bill Feuerer 1
Bill Price 1
Bob Finn 1
Bob Gaines 1
Brooke Sandahl 1
Bryan Milton 1
Carl Jonasson 1
Chick Holtkamp 1
Chris Bellizzi 1
Chris Jones 1
Chuck Ostin 1
Chuck Wilts 1
Claude Fiddler 1
Dan Nguyen 1
Dan Phillips 1
Dave Rearick 1
Dave Sessions 1
Dick Erb 1
Dick McCracken 1
Dimitri Barton 1
Don Telshaw 1
Drew Davol 1
Ed Barry 1
Ed Leeper 1
Eric Erickson 1
Eric Zschiesche 1
George Sessions 1
Grant Hiskes 1
Greg Murphy 1
Greg Schaffer 1
Greg Sonagere 1
Henry Mitchel 1
Howard Sturgis 1
Irene Ortenberger 1
Jay Smith 1
Jay WIlson 1
Jeff Dozier 1
Jim Erickson 1
Jim Madsen 1
Joe Hedge 1
Joe Oliger 1
Joel Ager 1
John Bragg 1
John Dill 1
John Fiske 1
John Harpole 1
John Morton 1
John Oakerman 1
John Ohrenshcall 1
John Yablonski 1
Keith Reynolds 1
Ken Yager 1
Kevin Bein 1
Kim Carrigan 1
Krehe Ritter 1
Kurt Smith 1
Larry Dalke 1
Larry Hawley 1
Larry Marshik 1
Lloyd Price 1
Lynn Hill 1
Margret Young 1
Maria Cranor 1
Mark Moore 1
Marty Martin 1
Mike Borghoff 1
Mike Dent 1
Mike Farrell 1
Mike Graham 1
Mort Hempel 1
Nathan Robinson 1
Paul Crawford 1
Pete Minks 1
Peter Barton 1
Peter Croft 1
Peter Haan 1
Peter Mayfield 1
Phil Gleason 1
Rick Cashner 1
Rick Linkert 1
Rob Oraveitz 1
Roger Greatrick 1
Roman Laba 1
Ron Fawcett 1
Ron Harrison 1
Spencer Austin 1
Steve Schneider 1
Steve Sutton 1
Steve Thompson 1
Thomas Huber 1
Tim Sorenson 1
Tom Carter 1
Tom Fender 1
Tom Kimbrough 1
Trevor Jones 1
Wayne Hildebrand 1
Xavier Bongard 1
Yvon Chouinard 1
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ed,
> Climbs that Tucker was listed on the FA, by year
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> 1985 6
> 1986 3
> 1987 17
> 1988 24
> 1989 82
> 1990 10
> 1991 1
> 1992 1
>
> 1989 seems to have been heavily influenced by Tucker's activities
Part of this might be an artifact of the way the FA records entered the database, though. 27 of Tucker's routes are listed in the 1994 Reid guide as "Tucker Tech, et al, late-1980s", and this was translated to "Tucker Tech, 1989" when the database was created. If they were randomly distributed across 1987-89, Tucker's climbs would still be quite peaked in 1989, but slightly less so:
Tucker's First Ascents:
1987: 17 -> 26
1988: 24 -> 33
1989: 82 -> 64
In terms of the initial graph which is peaked in 1989, "late 1980s" appears 57 times for first ascents. If we distribute these randomly among 1987, 88, and 89, (19 each), then 1987 and 1989 are about tied for number of first ascents:
All First Ascents:
1987: 110 -> 129
1988: 65 -> 84
1989: 170 -> 132
So the "late 1980s" coding did have an effect on the graph. But we don't actually know the true effect. Probably the numbers did not divide evenly. Maybe the majority was in 1989; we just don't know.
[Edited April 10, after counting occurences of "late 1980s"]
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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Klaus = Bad ass.
No list is close to complete without his FA's.
There should be a period called Eric's era.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Tucker Tech's most current photo (taken today...) He did another FA today;....still at it....
How does he do it?...What is his secret?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 03:28am PT
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Update for Ed and other trivia enthusiasts - I edited my post of April 3, which had speculated about routes labelled "late 1980s" being all counted as 1989 in the graph/tables. Instead of guessing, I counted occurences of "late 1980s" in the 1994 guidebook. Tucker's year for most FAs was probably still 1989, but for total FAs in Yosemite, 1987 and 1989 are probably about tied.
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