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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Wasn't someone trying to get access to a place down in Six Mile Canyon? Never saw anything else on that. I would imagine most places up toward V.C. are chossy enough nobody would care to try them.
I see there are options here, and that's good. Looking for a place close to home for this.
Speaking of Washoe Boulders, have I got this right? It's a screen shot of google earth, looking north. You can see the fields where the deer hang out in south Washoe Valley on the top left. Top right, there's a ridge line full of short chossy basalt stuff where I could probably get lots of practice when the snow melts. It's not part of Washoe Boulders is it?
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Well, it was such a nice day I thought I'd run over to Dino Rock and try PA Corner, looking for the LA from another thread. Got there just early enough for there to be sunshine; but screwed around just a little too long and the sunshine turned to shade. Built an anchor, sorted gear, got dressed up, and started up.
After a whole whopping 12 feet or so (epic, right?) and placing two cams I failed. After screwing around so long my hands got cold. So damn cold they got numb and I couldn't so much as feel the rock, other than to curl my fingers and guess that I had a fair grip in the crack. At that point, I convinced myself it was a bad idea to try leading a 10a for my third run with the Silent Partner all alone in an icy canyon with numb hands while still recovering from the Norovirus three days ago, especially having only led up to 5.9 so far. Jeez what a puss.
Packed it in and went chukar hunting instead. No luck there either. Probably should have tried Sunny Delight at Carson Valley Sentinel instead.
Sure was a nice day for a hike though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Hillrat
If you become to frustrated by lack of an appropriate place to place your pins give me a holler.I have need for as many pins as you would care to sell. Just this day I sighted another nearby, not to chossy pile, that would yield many a fearsome 5.3d and there is nothing more reassuring than a solid pin (knifeblade lost arrow or small angle)before a runout.I'll pay top dollar.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Thanks for the offer. I'll be keeping them though, there really are plenty of places in the back country that are appropriate as all get-out; but I was just looking close to home here.
If, on the other hand, you could use someone to climb with let me know. Though from the shining examples above you can probably guess my capability.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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Hillrat,
Hell yeah if your capable of 5.3(d) and are willing to bring the pins i have some projects in mind right off the Pyramid Hwy. with sunny exposure and out of snow zone. Helmet recommended.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 26, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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Now Ron, You know quite well that my 5.3 abilities dont encompass much beyond the likes of PA, if even that,even with the fearsome d rating. Anyway Hillrat i scoured the choss piles out 445 way and found two little walls with discontinuous crack systems, fairly solid rock (though some trundling by the second would be recommended), that would yield classic climbs up to about 150'. Ron if your feeling up to it come along, it will be fun, but of course as usual success is not guaranteed. Hillrat what days can you climb. My schedule is currently wide open.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:23am PT
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I'm stuck with a m-f kind of job, so weekends are best for me. I like all that area out on pyramid, actually own some acres out of Palomino Valley, though any rock up that way is no more than over-stacked piles of gravel. There definitely looks to be some quality stuff out there, especially if you're willing to hike and/or 4x4 a bit.
Took my friend from Sacto to Pig Rock out there for his first climb. I think he had to change shorts when we taught him to rap off LSoH. 'course, being a bunch of noobs we didn't stand a chance at anything on that wall.
Can't make any promises, but I'll be happy to give it a shot.
Meanwhile... couple more pictures
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:55am PT
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Palomino-i live out there. The wall is actually visible from 445 but the access is 4x4 off the Pig Rock approach road. I don't know what your plans are for tomorrow but if you want i'd probably be up for a jaunt up there. We might even be able to get up one of easier lines. #475-0357 or 907-232-1874. P.s. not a pile of gravel rather closer to Iron Butte but with a bit more looser areas.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Well hell Hillrat the scattered clouds and full moon yielded to the winter wonderland again. Damn. Maybe next weekend we can use some of those pins.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Apr 12, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Go drive some pins... of all different sizes.Figure it out, go have fun. Stack em, whip on em', pull em' and clean em'! you never know what you might have to do up there!
Go get the adventure... just avoid the ground.
P.s. chop those WWII pitons to different sizes... they work better.
Good grief!
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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is that a touron rating? or does it mean i can string my hammock up for a night with a case of beer?
i have practiced with the pins a little, but not at dino. been picking on chossy little gravel piles out where nobody would find me til chukar season.
ron, you ever been up along the old v.c flume road? thinkin of climbing around up here, naming it Troll Tower.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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its not real tall, and the rock is probably mostly crap. you need a STOUT 4x4 to get there, or be willing to hike a mile or so. all the qualities that mean i could grid-bolt (but i wont) and nobody would care, or probly even notice.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 12, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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How steep is Dinosaur Rock? I could static jump it if it's steep enough. But, I'm really looking for 250'+ rock in the area, that I can free fall.
Hey Hillrat, I'd be willing to link up with you one of these days if you want some tips/beta on aiding and big wall techniques. I'm ten minutes North of Reno and have been exploring the area... hit me up.
Cheers!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 12, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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I've done a 110' static, but only had a 2 second canopy ride. Come'on Ron, I'm betting you know where the taller stuff is.
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hillrat
Trad climber
reno, nv
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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yeah, that,d be great. most of what i do comes from books n webs, so it,d be great to get some tips in person. i always wonder about the rock in the humboldt range, tho the approach to all that wouldwbe killer hiking. probly all limestone anyway.
still have a house at Stead. nothin much tall enuf to climb out there. ever look at the rock out by Pyramid? some tallish lookin stuff out there. still gota go meet Rick one of these days.
kid is sure worth the time i dont have for climbing...
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 13, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Ah, I was getting my creature formation's mixed up. I saw 140' on Dino and thought it was the photo I saw of Pig Rock with the truck parked underneath, ha ha.
I've been checking out Frenchman's a bit, been up there a handful of times. Looks like good development potential; sport, trad, highline's and maybe one sketchy BASE jump. Some adventure to be had for sure.
How about Horton Ridge, West of there? Couldn't tell for sure but looked like some fun to be had. The nipple to the South of that looks like it might be a worthy granite dome; Reconnaissance Peak?
Anyway, the offer stands Hillrat...
Oh, and thanks Ron, I'll check it out.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 14, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Hillrat, I did some recon yesterday in the desert.
I found the perfect rock you can practice the art of placing as many pins as you want. It's 25 minutes North of Reno. There's also some established aid lines with rivets, hooks and beaks. I'd be happy to show you where it is... or anyone else, for that matter.
Cheers!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 14, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Yup, that's it Ron. I didn't know anything about it, just happened upon it yesterday. One of the routes has a fixed beak in it.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 14, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Here's some some other areas that I checked out yesterday... looks like some good free climbing and some possible BASE exits.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Apr 14, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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You know, Ron... I totally thought of you when I found it and saw there were routes on it. I figured if you didn't put them in, you would know who did. Seems like a good place to practice big wall techniques.
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