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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks Ed! I really enjoyed feeling just like I was there with you guys on such a "meat and potatoes" yosemite adventure. Good job keepin' it alive! Bruce
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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JEleazarian,
The regular route with the pin ladder is so much older than the FFA of the lieback, it's hard for me to imagine there weren't climbers who toproped the lieback before the FFA was done. But I don't know. It seems like it would be a shame not to...
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ring tailed cat
Trad climber
seattle
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great tr, did split pinnacle a couple of times in the early 80's combined with some sun bathing on the rocks in eagle creek. like the line on old classics. i'll add one. i mentioned it on a chimmny tr, the reg. route on pharohs beard. starts with a 5.8 offwidth to some lybacking and finishes with a 5.7 chimmny for 3 pitches.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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this the lieback?
link
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2008 - 02:18am PT
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that's it
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Apr 27, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
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This is a fun climb. The aid section at top is short, but steep/awkward enough that I was glad that I brought a pair of pocket/alpine aiders. Clipping the aiders end-to-end and leaving them hanging from the last aid piece, provides a long enough ladder that the second doesn't need to fool around with ascenders. For large gear, we only took 1 blue camalot, a purple friend, and 2 yellow camalots and that seemed plenty in the big size. The chimney was fairly friendly and I don't think big gear would have added much more protection.
From the tree at the fourth belay, you can just get down to the ground (with rope stretch) with a single 70m rope.
On the approach, we crossed the stream several times. Coming back down, we stayed on the west side the whole time (didn't cross back until almost at the road) and that worked out fine (might be the easier way if the stream was really high).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 27, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
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Wasn't Split Pinnacle first climbed by some spurious sapling maneauver before the roped 1938 FA?
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Apr 27, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
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Just to clarify on the history, the difficult lieback was led by Dave Rearick. Mort Hempel was in his best shape at the time and managed to follow. One can read Dave's more detailed account in my history of free climbing. Dave was right at the cutting edge of free climbing...
Pat
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 28, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Climbed this on Saturday. There was a party behind us. I guess if we keep this thread around long enough people will line up for Split Pinnacle like it's Nutcracker.
Anyway, fun route, and an awesome summit. Thanks Ed.
The ants at the base are vicious. Standing a little to the left of the start seemed to help a bit.
As I prussiked past the A1 section the first pin split right in half and came out. Held Ian well enough on lead, but he was wise to back it up.
Three raps on 60 gets you into the gully on the North side (the original route?) to walk down.
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kev
climber
CA
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Apr 27, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Super fun. Did it Saturday. You can get off with one rope if you find the right anchors. The ants were mellow for us fortunately.
kev
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Apr 27, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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Maybe we need the Ed Hartouni Obscure Select Guide...
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 27, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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The Split Piton route?
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scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
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Apr 27, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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If memory serves, the bolt was not placed on rappel, but from
an aid piton, which was cleaned on lowering prior to the
free lead. No toprope rehearsal.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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it's not that obscure, and if you have a copy of the spread sheet, you can create an O3 level "select" list yourself...
O4 and higher (I'm referring to the original coiler system of O0 to O7) probably cannot be generated from the literature, unless its fiction.
Most people wouldn't go out beyond O4 unless you have real S&M issues. I've been on some O4's and I've even participated on the FA of some climbs O4 (or higher) which are known to few people. I have a hand drawn topo of a new climb that I'm sure is the only copy of the topo in existence, from the FA team.
A select guide would be counter productive, but already exists, to a greater extent, by comparing my TR's in SuperTopoForum against guides you could get your hands on.
YMMV, and don't forget, its your ass, not mine, you choose to do those things... not me...
don't do the crime if you can't do the time....
and finally, my favorite: just because you can doesn't mean you should
think about it
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Apr 27, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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Great descriptions in the reporting Ed! Thanks!
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Apr 27, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Ed - I fear you missed the oxymoron - Obscure Select ...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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TiG, I got it, but actually there is an obscurista's select list out there...
but like the Fight Club...
...so I'm not a liberty to reveal it. On the other hand, even if I did, no one would go and do those routes, but obscuristas do have a fantasy that if anyone ever found out how good those climbs were, there would be parties lining up to do them.
Let me assure you that this thought is very much a fantasy.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 20, 2010 - 03:10am PT
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Rad, now I wanna go do it.
Nice link to the lieback, and a great link to old pics in general. Man... old guys rule!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 17, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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Some photos of the pinnacle from Lower Brother:
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 17, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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"(warning: climbing related thread)"
Thanks for the warning, it's really annoying when I open a thread and think it's going to be political just to find pictures of stupid climbing content.
Maybe Chris Mac should start a separate area for the climbing garbage...
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