Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:02am PT
|
It would have been far from risking my life, even back then. It would have been another fun day climbing on granite for me. Quit flexing like your some f*#king guru, you sound like a total schmuck dude.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:09am PT
|
wow
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:15am PT
|
Ha Ha Ha....You like that?
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 05:19am PT
|
That place looks okay with me. I really have never climbed in Tahoe much, did some at the Leap back in 72-73 with my high school climbing buddy, but I always headed for the Valley (coming from the Bay Area).
There is some okay stuff too off of 108 and on the way to Donnells Reservoir both off the road and down the Middle Fork of the Stan. Dingus knows.
Heck, if only Ireland had the choice and range of rock that California does (and Idaho, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, Colorado, Arizona, Wyoming etc etc). Mano of us climbers in Ireland would be happy to have some of the stuff you call choss.
|
|
portent
climber
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:03am PT
|
Quit flexing like your some f*#king guru, you sound like a total schmuck dude.
HAHAHAHA...
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:20am PT
|
somebody should go and fix the shoddy bolting at pie shop
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 10:31am PT
|
Nothin' wrong with The Pie Shop IMO. That is not choss by So Cal standards. It saved my only Tahoe climbing trip. I had 5 days to climb.. all of which got f*#ked by snow, freezing wind and rain.. in JULY.
Out of desperation on a moderate rain-day we hit the random rockpile we kept driving by... any mention of it is oddly absent in the Tahoe guide for some reason... like it's some kind of embarrassment to be shunned. (..and C.Mack decreed "The Pie Shop shall be stricken from the scrolls"...)
We climbed a couple trad routes up the dihedrals in relative dryness and had a great time. Didn't climb there enough to start criticizing bolted routes.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:49am PT
|
I cant , for the life of me, know why anyone would bag on such a nice crag.
Firstly, because this is the intardweb and it is my backyard. Secondly, it is sharp crumbling choss. Thirdly, people are way better off going to Planet Granite. I grew up climbing way worse choss, and I don't regret a minute of it.
I can't, for the life of me, know why anyone would take criticisms of a chunk of rock personally.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 11:56am PT
|
Hey Wes, I don't think we're talking about the same arête. I saw no bolts on the one I'm thinking of.
It's a free standing boulder, maybe fifteen feet tall. It sits in the main bouldering area on the trail up to the crag. It's a steep sandy landing with a low boulder that has a lot of problems on it, a couple with drilled pockets, just below/next to it. Above it, the slope levels out, so it's at the top of the first incline, lookers left, at the far end of well used problems. Any idea what I'm referring to?
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
|
Yeah, I think I know what you are talking about now. Pretty coarse grained white rock. Arches up and right. I've been meaning to try it. I hear it climbs better than it looks and goes at ???v7-v9??? range.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
|
That's the one. It's out of my league, but it sure is an interesting looking line. It looks like establishing yourself on the arête/prow is the crux.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
|
I will have to try it one of these days. I'm a huge fan of aretes.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
|
If you don't like the pie shop drive twenty min. to Woodfords
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
|
That's no arête, it's an inverse dihedral.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
|
kenny, that upper bit has been on my radar ever since I laid eyes on it. Unfortunately I know I'm not in any kind of shape to get on it. Hopefully by this spring!
Some acquaintances were TRing it when I was there, but I got the impression it had never been climbed (starting up the R crack and then up the centerish of the overhang). Any idea what gear it takes?
Ronbo, do you know? The arete L looks killer too... 5.12 or something... Lightening something...?
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
|
Rons book says, powersurge 11+ gear to 3" is that right Ron? I havent been on that one. there are quite a few nice routes up there.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
|
Done that one, it ends under the roof. There is an extension out the roof that looks SICK!
All the cracks there are good fun... sliced my finger WIDE OPEN on the gate of a biner while extending a runner on one of the cracks to the L... literally streams of blood running down the rock... strangest injury I've ever had.
It has been a while, and clearly it is a squeezer, but no way the crack out the roof to the headwall is 11+. Maybe out the R side/dihedral.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
|
Dr. F, tons more. Give a shout if you ever come back through.
Beavers
Hemorrhoid
Lost in Space
Lilly
Tolteca
Luther Pass
Zephyrs
and a few more waiting to be cleaned
Hey, reminds me Ron... you ever hit the Berkeley Block back in the day? I'd be interested in any names, grades, FA's, etc. It was recently resurrected. It was overgrown with a couple decades of moss. We added some new lines nearby, including an awesome 20' ass dragging traverse.
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
|
Well, clearly someone put some time into it a couple decades back and rumor has it DanO was involved. Whatever, we'll just rename everything and claim all the FA's. v5 is ~5.12, so I didn't expect you to know if from bfd.
|
|
kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
|
Wes, have you checked out that Boulder near true value crag in markleeville? I think they call it the ronin
EDIT: that does seem to be the trend If a boulder isn't allover you tube it must be an f.a. twenty years ago we called ronin the Orphan. and the white Kong on Ebbetts were the silver creek boulders.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!