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micronut
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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Coz,
I'm not in the Valley all that often, but on two separate occasions I've seen dudes that I didn't recognize from mags and vids ropeless on that thing. Once about ten years ago, young kid from North Carolina and another time a crusty Spaniard.
I'm just sayin you might not have the authority to say that it doesn't get soloed all that often just because you seem to hope it doesn't. Dudes come and go all the time in the Valley, doing hard stuff and sneakin' back out with little fanfare or record. Donini seemed to have a good point. He didn't say "soloed all the time" like your post hinted. He said fairly often.
It might get third classed more than you think. That's all I'm sayin. Proud send for you bitd and by anyone, anytime, rope or not.
Kidcormier,
Yer Gunna Die, probably on the approach.
And to those who keep tellin The Kid Cormier not to do it....Did he say or hint in the OP that he wanted to or was even thinkin' about it? Maybe I missed something.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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I think you guys missed something in the OP....
P.s. I'm a cyber dweeb and poser and likely will never get up there even with rope cuz I'm LIGHT!
Luke, look up Scott Cosgrove. He's done a few amazing things....
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 14, 2012 - 11:23am PT
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Coz,
Where did Jim say he was dissin anyone that free soloed it?
Maybe I'm missing something
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 14, 2012 - 11:30am PT
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There's a guy that works here in the Valley who free solo's it on a regular bases all the time over the years.
He's probably free soled it over 30 times now.
I free soloed it on sight myself.
Me and Shipley one day both free soled it on hot summer day.
I was going to free solo Basket Case that morning and Shipley told me not to go since it was so damn hot.
Croft used to do it all time (SS) before breakfast in the mornings to warm up.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Dec 14, 2012 - 11:43am PT
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There's a quote out there, I think from Henry Barber, something to the effect of soloing is natural when you climb 300 days a year, not so much when you climb 50. When people are living in the valley, year after year, and climbing daily, they solo stuff and are probably making solid choices. When the kiddos on summer vacation try to emulate them, it scares me. It's better to not make a list of the daily climbers and what they've done for folks who may just see badass and not the context. I think many of these folks don't solo if they feel like they have to bring their big balls to do it.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Thanks for the entertainment everybody.
Mike I know who coz is. The dude who freed the grand wall, duh
Coz if you any stories you'd like to share about climbing with Chief we'd love to hear them on the Squamish photos and stories thread!
When the kiddos on summer vacation try to emulate them, it scares me.
Every one should be
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Coz if you any stories you'd like to share about climbing with Chief we'd love to hear them on the Squamish photos and stories thread!
I'll second that!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Me like rope.
Luckily ego has dropped in lock step with skill level.
Me no likey fall WITH rope!!
Imagine how unpleasant without one?!?!
Quit licking Coz's ass kids...its nasty.
Sez yer mom......WOOO HOOOOO BISHES!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
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Damn Bruce beat me to it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Sorry Mike, but Jeremy is always phukkin' with me....
Next time I leave longer opportunity!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Haha it was my chance! ;) no worries..
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Jeremy's mom is a big ol broad, and she likes to wield it.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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I've climbed the Steak Salad twice, once in 76 and again in 98 ish, both times with a rope.
Climbed the Chouinaird Herbert with Coz and the approach scared the sh#t out of me.
As far as I'm concerned, the SS is a must do classic.
Sentinel's one of the coolest formations in the Valley and a f*#king TOMBSTONE!
Off topic ask Coz about me pitching off the studs up to the Pillar while simul climbing, TWICE.
The look on his face as he held my fall with one hand from down on Merci Me was priceless.
Leading the approach slab to the Planet in the rain in wool socks was another one.
Go easy on the Coz, he might be quick with an abrasive or reactive reply but no one has a bigger heart.
PB
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Chief do you remember the day in the bluffs coz is referring too?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 14, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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Yes.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Dec 14, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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I was going to free solo Basket Case that morning ... That woulda been sick.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 14, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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Haha yeah I'd love to know the solo circuit coz speaks of that Chief took him on in the bluffs!
That Sentinal photo up thread is very nice.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Dec 14, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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Coz wrote:
Watch out for the pitch getting into the narrows, very slippery, I think that's were Derek fell, I rekon.
Yup, Timmy and Dean epiced on that section, as well. They ended up aiding through it... using eachother, ha ha.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 14, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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At the time of my free solo in 1976 (+/- 1 yr), I had only known of Barber's ascent. In fact, Barber's ascent was probably the only free solo of a big route like that I had ever heard of, I'm sure. That was just before Bachar became 'enlightened'. To answer Prod's post, I brought a carabiner and a maybe 6-ft-long sling. I had read that Barber had done this (and I remember thinking...good idea). I used it at the bolt on the 5.9 friction bit to protect this part, which is completely different from the rest of the climb.
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 14, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I was gonna chime in what what Ammon said. For all those thinking an on sight solo would be a good idea, note that Timmy and Dean both pulled on each other to get into/through the Narrows. Those guys are, I've noticed, pretty good climbers, and they had a mini-crisis. Food for thought.
Not to diss those who have done the onsight solo (or any solo) of SS. I sure haven't.
Brian
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