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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 29, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
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glad to hear it jay.
subthread will be the reflexive art of the heckling spotters and what a great thing it is to share a supportive group dynamic, be it overtly so or knott...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 29, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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So back in the 70s I went to do the Third Flatiron with Bob Denberg and to get more "rock" we start at the very bottom of the slab.
On one lead I climb around a corner and a ways up I find a hole about 8"X11" to thread. But instead of slinging it I pull up slack from Bob, unseen below, clip into a loop, thread my end through the hole, then tie back in and finish the lead by climbing back around the corner to his side.
Then I bring him up and say nothing.
The rope moves quickly but then stops.
Ever so quietly I lean out and peek around the corner and there is Bob trying to stick his head through the hole....
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
Tahoe
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May 29, 2006 - 06:26pm PT
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Awesome story Piton!
Nice going, Jaybro!
And yes, I understand that Tarbruster - Don't think I haven't pulled the same.
If you're a sketched leader, fvck the second!
=)
okgo
-Aaron
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 29, 2006 - 07:11pm PT
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hey waitduh minitt,
who said anything about sketched, mr tahoe...
(haha)
rondo:
i've gotta go find that tie thru hole on the 3rd flatiron.
i can and i will, cuz i'm that kinda guy.
plus it's just down the road a piece...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 29, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
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If I remember (after 30 years) its about 200' up from the very bottom.
Who you planning on sandbagging? Somebody thin I hope.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2006 - 08:50pm PT
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Poor tahoe climber, he will learn one day. He needs to stop climbing on a short suburban though.
Who is talking tongue in cheek here? Everything I have said happened. And still happens. As long as you don't kill your second, he has to come back for revenge, right???
LOL about Stegg, the saying around here is that god keeps him alive for entertainment value.
And about the middle of a 60, climb up 20, lower off, OOPS! problem, well, let's just say I can't go telling stories about my friends, but, um, well, if I were mean, I'd have a LOT of gear cause SOMEONE has walked off and left a rather large number of pieces, one or two at a time, lying here and there, over time.
And I have been dropped, though not far, won't say by who, LOL.
But really, you can't have a better friend than Stegg. And his luck does rub off, so I am very happy we hit it off and have had some GREAT times together, like the time when I had the cast still on my elbow and met him at jamestown cause he wanted to get this FA done before some pals stole it, LOL. I was pretty depressed about breaking the elbow, the day before I had been on this very cool wet shrub choked overhanging crack with extremely cool moves and an offwith crux move, never been climbed before, we figure at least 5.11, and then, next day, no climbing for 12 WEEKS!!!!!!
But Steg called and I went and even though I could not climb at all, the dirt and crud falling all around me from the FA just made me happy, and I was laughing about it and we agreed that the sound of dirt, leaves, rocks and other crap hitting the ground during an FA was sweet music indeed!!!!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
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RONBO! LOL, that is PRICELESSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 29, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
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I'm not exactly sure what, but Shannon has some kind of record for the smallest fraction of the time required to "approach" in order to require some form of medical evacuation.
About one sixtieth I think.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2006 - 09:50pm PT
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Yeah but he is a great guy. And one of my real friends.
And he has a great sense of humor!
He is absolutely fearless. OR just does not know any better.
Corbet says between stegg and me, he can't figure out who is dumber, LOL.
thaT poison ivy crack I wrote about?
Corbett had started up the same crack years ago, decided not to go thought the PI, traversed left to a dihedral, a bit too far as it turns out, found no gear, proceeded to climb the dihedral, rope now useless, and so in true corbet climb-while-terrified style, put up a not worth repeating climb known as rat trap, a huge zigzag X moronic route.
His comment on STegg n me cleaning out the PI and making a very nice straight climb out of his disaster, was, "Only you two are stpid enough to do that.".
When I pointed out that our line was not in fact a potentially deadly trap for a rather big rat, he didn't have much to say except, "Bite Me!"
ROTFLMAO!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2006 - 10:03am PT
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Shameless bump.
So Tahoe climber can learn the one true way!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 30, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
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dirtneye, that form of trickery is what we call "illegal dumping."
I do it every time I carry big units.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Kman, when I was in good shape, I routinely carried 20 pounds of gear, not counting the slings and biners on my harness.
I would really like to be able to do that again, and have a camera set up for when the second gets to around 12 pounds of junk he is going to add on for the hard part of the climb, in addition to what he has already cleaned, and I place a LOT of gear, hehe.
But hte prize, the grand prize, goes to Piton Ron, for running hte rope though a hole and retying in, and finding his second trying to get through the hole
That is pure genius, and I wish I could have seen that.
I'll bet Ronbo laughs every time he thinks about it. I know I do.
YO ucna bet I'll be looking for tunnels adn hoels like a man on a mission from now on.
Best part is, I climb with one very large fellow a good bit, and I am not very big. If I could find the right hole, he might actually believe I went though it.
He's also the funniest climber in the souht, so he would appreciate the humor, unless he decided to kick my ass.
But the risk is worth it.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 30, 2006 - 09:07pm PT
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Dirtster, its not as easy as finding a hole (where have I heard THAT before?) It has to be out of sight of the second and then you must find a spy-belay.
Wish I had had a video camera back then.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2006 - 10:05pm PT
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Amen Ron!
I was able to think of ONE tunnel right away,, but it is in plain sight and way too small for the trick to work.
I know another climb with a hole, but anyone can go though it, and again, it can be seen from the second pitch belay.
Hmmm... where is the climb you pulled your trick on? I might have to just use it.
that would be worth the trip!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 30, 2006 - 10:19pm PT
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Some fine examples of gamesmanship. (Gamespersonship?) Or what the psycho-babblers might call passive-aggressive behaviours. Or hazing. Or team building. Or initiations. Or simply practical jokes. Please yourself.
These games are particularly fun with apprentices, as the English call them. I've taught climbing in Norway, and they're quite keen on the rock in pack trick. Especially for the more "challenging" students. About the right level of subtlety for adolescent males.
Tall tales are another good one. It's amazing what some people will believe, and story telling is a big part of our culture anyway. The neat thing is, some of the tall tales are true.
I spent autumn 1976 in the Valley, with some other Canucks, some climbers from the Northwest, Blob Wyvill, and Nick Estcourt, sadly now gone. Nick was then ancient, at least in his late 30s, and had an untidy mop of thinning greyish hair. One day it was his birthday, and he went to the grocery store to buy beer. Someone got in line in front of him, and got the cashier to ID Nick. "Excuse me sir, can I see your ID please. You have to be 21 to buy beer in California." Made his day.
There was once an article in Mountain or Summit or some such, advocating the "simulated leader fall". The idea was that the second should have much the same experience as the leader. The leader would allow enough slack for the second to fall just as far at any point as the leader would have. Not a true simulation - the second would be much less likely to be affected by gear pulling, and of course ultimately would still have a top rope. A "shared" experience, eh? Naturally, they got outraged letters from a few who didn't get the joke.
Anders Ourom
ps I'm a newcomer to these forums. There are frequent references to "trolls". I take it that they're not talking about fishing. Being of Norwegian descent, I have an interest in trolls, who have been sadly misrepresented in literature and film. I have sometimes been called the blue troll, not as far as I know for any deficiency in character or similarity to the caricatures in the media. As some say, troll er folk ogsǻ. Can someone inform me about this?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 30, 2006 - 10:41pm PT
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welcome to super taco Anders!
Troll:
see your first paragraph. essentially someone posting something akin to a total BS question, set craftily to draw a sincere response from you, the unwitting trollee!
it feels bad, real bad to get trolled, and we all secretly email one another laughing hysterically about you if it happens.
if you saw "ghost busters" with bill murray and dan akroyd, and recall getting "slimed" -its much the same and twice as yukky.
thanks for posting up, we need new blood.
cheers,
Tarbousier.
(roy)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2006 - 02:14am PT
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HEHE, maybe Anders can share some more good trick to play on the second, but Anders, dropping the second more that a foot or so ist VERBOTEN hier, ja?
Everything else that is funny and does not injure is fair play.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2006 - 03:33am PT
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Yikes! When you say your groups "needs some new blood", does that mean you're climber-vampires? I've never met any, but as the patient said to the naval surgeon, "My, how specialized you doctors are these days".
"Trolling" sounds like what my mother calls trying to get a rise out of someone. So the metaphor is consistent. Not permitted in my family's sandbox, and apparently not in this one either. I'll try to avoid such faux pas and malapropisms.
Anders
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2006 - 04:25am PT
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You got it. Trying to get a rise out of someone.
Hooking a fish.
Reeling them in.
Hooking a big fish is better than hooking a little one.
Trolling is also a fishing term.
Now, Dude, make with the stories about how you played a trick on your second.
Hijacking is also frowned upon, LOL!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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A trick that was once played on me. Crossing the Merced in spring, to get to High Pressure. A drought spring (1977), but still involved devious boulder hopping, well upstream. So we set up a tyrolean traverse. That is, we threw a rope to the first across ("DB"), and he set it up. He set it up so that rope stretch ensured everyone got a nice cold dip in the middle of the river. Washing our sorry asses, I believe he described it as. I've always wanted to try this on someone else, but tyrolean traverses aren't so common.
I liked the "rope threaded through impassable chimney" trick.
Anders
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