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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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The best definition of The Golden Age of Climbing, hinted at above, is: the years just before you started climbing
Yes.
And laughed my ass off-
True Love hasn't faded, though.
Congrats on crime that's awesome!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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OK, here's an idea.
Chief's Recommends for 11 Classic One Pitch Squamish 11s
(This list is organized for climbing them all on the same day)
Smoke Bluffs "Warm Up"
1) Partners in Crime 11a
2) Crime of the Century 11c
Murrin "Technician's Circuit"
3) Perspective 11a
4) Hypertension 11a
5) Brunser Overhang 11a
6) Horrors of Ivan 11c
7) No Name Rd 11b
8) Burnin Down the Couch 11d
"Enduro Homage to the Big Stone"
9) Boogie til You Puke 11b
10) Astrologger 11b
"Cool Down by the Sea"
11) Clean Crack 11b
Recommended Bonus Pitches for total of 18 pitches
Penny Lane 5.9 Warm Up
Pleasant Pheasant 11a lead with Elastic Man 11c TR
Sentry Box Regular 12a lead and TR Lap with Direct 12a
Claim Jumper 12a TR after Perspective lead
Caboose 10b for final wind down.
Festivities at Psyche Ledge, Chief Parking Lot (or suitably discreet alternative)
Beers, Pipeloads,Tea or Whatever.
I think this is well within a lot of people's ability.
My only excuse would be sloth and indolence.
ToGnar variations:
Boogie Till You Puke via Apron and Buttress or Grand Via Chimneys
(Send someone around to meet you with the Harley Parts)
Malemute finish via Angels Crest with North Summit tag after Astrologger
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Has anybody ever repeated Dog Face? There was a lonely bail biner on it for ages and ages and ages.
There were some lonely bail biners on Hamish routes Senate Seat and Everyone's a Guide for the longest time too...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sonnie repeated Dogface last year and third classed it with no pads.
He told me he broke a hold and came perilously close to warbling off from WAY UP THERE!
12c-d by his reckoning and I think there's a report in his blog.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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If I could only think of a one pitch slab route of the right difficulty, I'd suggest adding it to the list. Bloodlust Direct is fairly close..
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Not a one pitch climb.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Maybe with one of those 80 m ropes? Or would that be stretching the rules?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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Awesome list Chief I love the idea, my only question is why not finish on high plains if your already doing an Angels crest lap?? Then u could eschew BTYP & clean crack & finish your single pitch challenge on the summit-, or would that be pussin' out??
That bail biner is still on Dogface, I saw something about Sonnie bouldering king of rock but didn't know he did Dogface too, that's awesome I've never seen chalk on it.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I know it's stretching it a bit (no pun intended) but the approach kind of counts as climbing and although this shouldn't be an ironclad disqualifier, Bloodlust Direct is the first of a multi pitch route.
Keep digging Mighty, I'm sure you'll find a deserving gem.
When crafting my list of 11 I tried to factor in quality and variety of representative climbing, history, representative locations and the possibility of climbing all eleven in one day.
With these criteria a number immediately got the boot (no pun) including Hungry Wolf and Kashmir.
Astrologger and Boogie Till You Puke are epic good pitches in their own right and the long approaches commensurate with the Chief's mighty stature. Movin' to Monatana P1 and Knacker Cracker although worthy when dry, didn't seem to be in the same league.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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I think Clean Crack is a must on the list and HPD (although one of the finest hand cracks in the known universe) is a multi pitch route.
The jaunt up AC is for those (and they're out there) who would deem my list lightweight fluff.
If they want to throw in HPD to further taunt and mock us, so be it.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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The Chief Challenge!
Starting now? Chief you gonna buy which ever of us complete all 18 first an 1/8th and an 18 pack!?!
Previous ascents don't count ya gotta hit me again.
Re: legend status - is Perry a cowboy or an Indian ?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Actually Ryan. You wanna wager me 1/8 and 18 pack to see who can red point them all first, me vs you vs the weather.
All 18 in a day would be crazy, especially this time of year.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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That's pretty good Luke but let's not confuse things.
Ryan suggested something that has rightly morphed into a recommended list of 11 Legendary Squamish single pitch 5.11s. I don't mind you calling my list Chief's Challenge as it doesn't prevent someone from coming up with their own idea. Let's bear in mind there's a number of people who'd 3rd class most if not all of the list so let's keep things in Perspective.
I'll buy a beer or brew a cup of killer Joe for anyone that ticks the list in a day.
Hell I'll even hold the rope on some of the pitches
The bonus stuff is...well it's just bonus stuff.
Now this business as to whether I'm a cowboy or an Indian.
Well, neither actually although I've behaved like both more than once.
Technically I'm Metis which means there's a mix of frog and bow and arrow in the woodpile.
My grandpa Dave Perry was was an English/Scottish fur trapper for the Hudson's Bay Company and grandma was Cree and French. In the finest Canadian traditions, I was raised on bannock, maple syrup, moose meat, saskatoons and preemptive corporal punishment.
I figure I'm actually a Mac which is short for Mackinaw and representative of rough, durable and colorful Canadian working class fabric. I checked out Wikipedia and this quote pretty much sums me up.
Mackinaw.
These jackets have their origins on the Canadian frontier and were later made famous by American loggers in the upper Midwest during the mid-19th century logging boom. In Canada, the "Mac" is regarded as a marker of national identity and working-class values, and has been exploited for effect in Canadian comedy shows such as Second City Television and This Hour has 22 Minutes.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Is Firewalk still pretty runout?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Yeah man, if there aren't at least a dozen takers by next year's Psyche Ledge bash I'll be real disappointed.
Hell, writing the list got me so worked up, I'm inspired to whip myself into shape and give it a try.
Might have to brew myself a cup!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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How could you guys not mention AstroSquatch North ?
At 5.11 c+/- 0.33 it's sustained stemming and liebacking to a reverse undercling and is by fart the most classic overhanging pumpfest North of West Vancouver
I am training all winter specifically for this pitch, having recreated the crux sequence in my basement
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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I'm down Luke, so long as we smoke & drink the whole prize together in 18 min or less upon the outcome. As well we'd have to take an honest shot at doing the CCIAD after, have to be a long day in June. I've done a bunch of the climbs on Perry's list already which is kinda the reason they didn't make my original list as I was looking for new climbs but what better time than Dec 1 to start a climbing challenge! Theyre all classic so no problem with some repeats. I'd think you'd want to have most of those pitches kind of dialed before even thinking about doing them in a day anyhow. Ok kid your on, better get your woman to cook up some roast, you're gonna need it! Ready, set, go! Post your sends here, no etriers allowed!
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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For the over 60 crowd, can we do it as a relay, but it may be tough to find 18 of us!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Wait Rolf, I'm almost there.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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So first to red point all 18 and top rope the other 2 clean. You're on.
And to keep things fair ill let you know where I keep the big gear for boogie, and the reds and yellows for astro logger,I don't want to have an unfair advantage with 80 some cams at my disposal
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