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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Cool! Except for the short tube bit. Somebody get that man a proper blow tube.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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A couple of things I need to say. Most important is the fact that the tile chisel is not my idea. I saw a picture of one in a post on here and just copied it. Also, that bolt I pulled in the video was a really good bolt for a quarter incher. If they are the least bit loose they come out much easier. The good thing is, Clint and I are running out of quarter inchers to replace in the Valley. There is still a lot left on some of the big wall routes, but few of those are first ascent bolts. I know that bolt I lowered that haul bag off of during Doug and my great adventure a couple months ago was not a first ascent bolt. I was really freaked out because I know how easy they come out. I may start replacing some of that stuff next season using my own non ASCA stuff but I'll save that discussion for another thread. Oh yea, the blow tube. I tried a longer one, but between it getting tangeled up in all the other stuff and the wind, I gave up and just learned to close my eyes and not breath in:-)
Roger
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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I have gotten a few 1/4 inchers out with my nut tool...
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
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Thanks Roger, miss you.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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"What kind of drill is that?"
I can tell you with 100% certainty that it is a Hurricane drill.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Right on, Roger! If you are running out of bolts to replace in the Valley, we can put you to work in Tuolumne!
A few other things…
Yup, it’s a Hurricane drill.
And the Lost Arrow (tuning fork) that Roger shows in the video isn’t a #5, it’s a #3. The original, old-style #1 Arrows (USA-made) work great for a starter fork and are thinner than the new #1 Arrows. A short-thick Bugaboo also works for a starter fork. I use a set of #1, 2, and 3 Arrows and stack the 2 and 3 if the bolt won’t come out using the 3 by itself. Sometimes old bolts are actually pretty good and take some effort to remove – especially 1/4” buttonheads that are longer than 1.5”.
Ditto on the blow-tube! To keep it out of the way when not using it, you can put a clove-hitch in the middle of the tubing and clip it to a biner, along with the leash.
Sometimes it helps to tap back and forth on the bolt hanger to spin it in order to loosen it up. This makes it easier to get the thin fork started and helps to prevent damage to the rock. Also, it’s easier to get under a bolt hanger by placing the fork under the side of the hanger that’s bent to form the clipping hole although it looks like Roger was constrained by the geometry of the rock in the video example. I like to clip a funkiness device to the bolt hanger when pulling the bolt so that the hanger doesn’t get dropped. Stainless SMC hangers work great with new 1/4” butonheads for stance drilling.
And it’s probably obvious and just wasn’t included in the video, but the hole needs to be blown out with a blow-tube after using a hole brush.
Thanks for posting the video.
Nice job, Cheyne.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 19, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Thank you for your dedicated work Roger and Clint.
and very educational video
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 19, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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bump for a great video.
is there anywhere/anyway to get a pulling "fork", without having to machine it yourself? I don't have a machine shop at hand.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 19, 2012 - 03:01am PT
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I make my own tuning forks with a hacksaw and vise.
It really doesn't take that long to cut the slot in a (long thin) Lost Arrow - less time than it takes to drill the hole for one bolt!
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Dec 20, 2012 - 04:47am PT
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These informative threads are indeed worthy. Tired of the spray fests going on..Thanks Mr roger
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Jan 15, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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BBST
On a side note, I got a disappointment this evening.
Turns out, I left my collection of antique hangers, bolts, and a couple pins in my folks garage. They were cleaning the garage and putting all the metal stuff in a pile for a craigslist metal recycler. Gone, my 1/4" buttonhead on a SMC hanger, my leeper hangers, a few home made hangers from angle iron, some ultra funky pitons. Gone. It was maybe only 5 or 6 things, but dang... Collected out of Smith Rocks, the Columbia River Gorge, a few other places.
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