Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
May 26, 2006 - 08:34am PT
|
Geat pix of both sides of the Hourglass, one area that I never got to in the Valley.
I'll have to remedy that someday.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
May 26, 2006 - 09:54am PT
|
Hey Rad, if I ever get back to the States let's hook up and climb both sides of the Hourglass. That is, if I ever get back to leading 5.11.
Which I will.
Peter, with all the non-climbing vitriolic threads of late, your posts have been a breath of fresh air.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:55am PT
|
bump
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
|
I realize I erased the link for the actual crackjacks image from imageshack. Here is the image again, now supported by photobucket:
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
|
A fella might get hurt by them gadgets. Just carrying them would be hard work, and bringing them up and placing them on a climb even more so. Amazing stuff!
Were the crackjacks crackerjack? Were any tests done on them to see how strong they were?
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
|
Hi Anders,
This thread is a few years old and you will notice in the beginning (where the missing image was of the chaise lounge with the first batch of crack jacks produced---there was a slightly updated version a few weeks later) that I mention trying to pull them out by a car (Dodge Valiant) attached with old climbing rope, and a bunch of slack paid out in advance. The rope broke and the jack remained. You would tie/clip into one end as you would a tee-pin for example. I am sure they could easily have withstood loads in excess of 6000 lbs.
The second batch of aluminum units had thread only on one end, the other end merely rotating. They could usually be placed with one hand but it was awkward. Once you tightened one up it inspired incredible confidence. And as noted in beginning you could put different tube sections in the middle. I think that design was capable of being as short as 3.5" and could expand another 1" or so. The Ski Hut actually carried them for awhile. I never used one after the Hourglass right "all-aid" ascent Les and I did in 1964. Bridwell had one for years; I don't remember if he used it but probably did.
|
|
Les23
climber
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
|
I still have some of these things in the garage.
|
|
Les23
climber
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
|
They are awfully dusty.
|
|
Les23
climber
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
|
They are behind the woodpile. I will take a picture.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
|
Hi Les!
This is going to be fun. We are talking 43 years ago for crackjacks. Les Wilson, St'ers, is one of a very few true adventure climbers and still is active. He started me and a few other guys climbing when we were in our early teens in 1963---- 45 years ago. Incredibly cool strong guy with a love of the outdoors that is matched only by a few. One of his sons, David, became a very good climber also.
best ph.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
|
Alright. Here are some more photos of the crackjack circa 1964-1965 taken just now by Les Wilson. He has found some in his storage. And he is trying to get a webpage going: http://www.les-wilson.com/WSCrackjacks/CrackGallery.htm
But here is some of what he has posted. Note that the aluminum angle ends were able to adjust somewhat to different angles as they were loosely pinned onto the shafts (both ends).
original iron crackjacks
exploded view of final aluminum crackjack
free end final crackjack
threaded end final crackjack
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
|
Classic...the iron crackjacks, a simple turnbuckle with two pieces of angle iron welded at the ends.
|
|
nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
|
|
|
Apr 16, 2009 - 10:17am PT
|
Bonjour Les!
I sent you an email via supertopo.
Stephane / Nuts Museum
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
Peter -
My dad is definitely old school and his memories of the hourglass and these devices are some of his fondest from his times in Yosemite. They, and you, ushered in the modern era for his Yosemite days.
David
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2009 - 09:34am PT
|
David,
Your dad is one of the most decent men I have ever known. I am so utterly grateful he started me out climbing back in July of 1963, aged 14. And he had to cope with my worried professor parents at the time too, what a crock. But what an incredible life gift he gave me! I can't imagine what I would have become without my fundamental connection to climbing. I shudder to think, frankly. You probably don't know this, but I also met your grandfather way back then when he was out visiting Les. Maybe before you were born, I can't recall.
best to you, p.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
|
|
|
May 23, 2009 - 10:42am PT
|
This thread is really stellar - I love the process and unfolding of events, connections and gear.
Erik
|
|
tom Carter
Social climber
|
|
|
May 23, 2009 - 10:55am PT
|
Fantastic!
There is always something more involved - the details make the difference. It really is interesting.
Great photos of the jacks and the Right Side.
I remember climbing it with Allan mid- 70's and we found a crushed 9 hex? at the bottom of the last pitch. We were the only ones who saw and or picked up the once 'fixed" pieces.
Way to go Peter
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 24, 2009 - 09:26am PT
|
Still have that nut, Tom?
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
May 30, 2009 - 04:08am PT
|
I always thought it was made by Dolt, my bad. See photos Climbers Forum "Dats a lotta nuts!"
I got the crackjack for my museum from Bridwell years ago. He said it was from Harding used on the Harding Slot on Astroman FA. Said it may be made by Dolt. Bridwell wasnt trying to sell me, he is a friend, but maybe just didn't remember. It is a fantastic piece so great job on the craftsmanship. This is the only one I have ever seen. How many were created?
How many different sizes?
For 1964, it is an amazing piece of gear way ahead of its time!
Rock on!
Marty
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
May 30, 2009 - 02:40pm PT
|
awesome thread!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!