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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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There were times as I was taking it all in and not engaged in a particular conversation that I wished I was a mere fly on the wall to avoid the awkward pause of admiration.
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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I could only attend Friday. But many were arriving at the same time, meeting people they knew by rep and people they had not seen in some time. As the tables were just being set up and Ken's exhibits were just being unpacked, it was that informal greeting moment.
Wow I got Liz Robbins signature in the red Climber's Guide on the NW face of Half Dome page. Tom told Royal that he thought it would be worth twice as much as some other signature. But I will not be selling this. I will leave it for someone else.
Alan seemed ready to get back out climbing, but his recollections of the Salathe-Steck and John were fresh.
He says this is the original hat but boy is it clean.
Second ascent of LA with Harding
Nic Clinch is such and entertaining speaker I forgot to pick up the camera. On his first climb with Salathe, already a legend, leading on the Michael's Ledge side of the Lower Brother, he recollects when he paused at a crux that John is simul. climbing behind him and has removed the only protection between them. So he wedges a chimney belay and were John reaches him John tells him he should always set an anchor at a belay.
Ken's pictures, Doug's perspective and Steve's timeline framed the first hand memories.
I didn't know Salathe had rope soloed his first attempt on the LA. 1940's before the rope trick, what a vision. The iron was just a means to the real project.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Lostinshinglesprings,
The idea of commitment is what I recognized in the Robbins title, Fail Falling, and did not really recognize that I did. Thanks for the the wake-up, as in "words and wisdom." I had to think, me, wise? It's RR we all look to for the right way to go. Might as well listen to him on the right way to go out.
Hey there say, Beth Heller, AAJ lady,
I still fail to find the AAJ article RR wrote on the NA Wall and his words about leading our lives with the courage found in our climbing.
A shout out for the AAJ table!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1965/331_Robbins_NorthAmericaWall_aaj1965.pdf
Is this the quote you have in mind?
"We climbed onward, searching,
always searching. Searching for handholds and footholds, for piton cracks
and the right piton. And searching ourselves for the necessary human
qualities to make this climb possible. Searching for adventure, searching
for ourselves, searching for situations which would call forth our total
resources. For some it is a search for courage. Perhaps if we can learn to
face the dangers of the mountains with equanimity, we can also learn to
face with a calm spirit the chilling spector of inevitable death."
(p.336)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:48am PT
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Good stuff, Jody.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 30, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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hey there say, jody.... great and wonderful share here...
wow, i am just too far away, :))
love hearing that the old timers were doing what old timers love to do:
SHARING old times, :)
thanks for the pics here, and to mouse, too...
very nice stuff!
also, jody:
i found a soak bible, a very tiny pocket sized one, once,
and:
i carefully took all the pages apart, to salvag it... and let it dry like an open accoridian, near a heat sorce... once it was dry,
i later would have pressed it, but it was perhaps then, better left as it was... would have pressed better damp, but paper sticks like glue
then, so did not do so... works great now, but is 'fatter' and crinkled, :))
hope your books will be okay...
:)
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The Librarian
climber
Golden, CO
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Oct 30, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Hi, all! Clint Cummins, you beat me to it - and thanks for the shout out, Mouse from Merced!
It was awesome to meet all of you in Oakdale, although I wish you had told me your supertopo names too :)
It was an impressive event that Steve obviously put a lot of heart and effort into, and I'm psyched to follow up with all the ideas that got thrown around about how the AAC library can build stronger relationships. So, now that you know where to find me, let's keep talking?
OK - back to lurking!
Beth, the librarian
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Kudos to Mr Grossman - a seminal effort.
I'm so gonna lean on my probation officer to let me go next year.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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One thing I noticed was an almost complete lack of younger generation attendees.
Ditto. I wonder how many even know who these guys are.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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This event seem to be the most comprehensive historical event steeped in Yosemite's climbing history of all time, so far. Though necessarily limited in its time scope, it nevertheless facilitated the most broad-ranging discussions, not just on-stage or in a facilitated circle but the non-structured time gave ample room for lots of one-on-one or small group conversations which were rich, both historically and personally. The theme, "Running Towards Commitment" with the focus on John Salathe and the Salathe Wall gave stimulus to the philosophical side of climbing. The hardware displays on Sunday gave those who stayed a chance to see and feel the variety of stuff that was used during the 30's-60's.
Kudos to Steve Grossman and all those who helped create this wonderful and successful event.
I think I took too many pictures. Yet the weekend offered so many opportunities to do so, and who knows when such a gathering of Yosemite's pioneer climbers will ever convene again?
Here are the photos from Friday night:
I liked the way they had such large posters of Yosemite climbing set up around the room as a backdrop for the event.
Nick Clinch told his very humorous account of climbing with John Salathe.
Allen Steck gave his first-hand and very memorable account of the FA of the North Face of Sentinel with John Salathe.
Gerry Gallwas told about his own piton-making and their use on the Nose second ascent and the FA on the NW face of Half Dome.
Doug Robinson joked that from Salathe's experiences, he learned to carry enough water wherever he went, even on to a stage!
After the presentations, there was plenty of time of talking one-on-one:
More to come...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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I liked that the schedule allowed leisurely morning conversations between participants. Here's the breakfast room at the Best Western:
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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Sunday morning, we were privileged to have Dick Long who'd founded LongWare hardware join us for breakfast and the rest of the day which was devoted to displaying hardware and discussing its changes as well as some of the personalities involved in its manufacture.
Several people commented that this collection is the most complete collection ever to be assembled anywhere.
It was great to be able to come in and browse and discuss the hardware displays as they were being set up before the presentations.
It was VERY COOL when Guido brought out a sample of his PatentWear T-Shirt with the original patent artwork for the Hexentric chocks. Similar T-shirts are available for all kinds of sports and other activities! Check them out for Christmas gifts!
An interesting discussion came up about whether Salathe actually used Model T axles to make his pitons. Tom Frost maintains that they were made from readily available bar-stock, based on the dimensions and uniformity of the pitons. Jerry Gallwas who made his own pitons isn't so sure. He plans to dp some metallurgical tests on some of his Salathe piton to see if there is a definitive answer there. Here's a close up photo of the pitons they were discussing.
All in all, it was a most wonderful weekend. So great to mingle with all of you who were there!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks for all the photos! Wayne Merry and I tried to meet at YVR on Monday afternoon, but it didn't quite work out. Another time, I hope.
I bet Camilla (Audrey's daughter) livened up the proceedings considerably!
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Looks like all gray people looking at their past .......
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Their loss.
Thanks for all the great pics Boodawg. I am really sorry I missed Sunday but I had some family stuff that was more important. I wish I could have been at the food gatherings. That's my thing.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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^^^^Best BestWestern Photographer of the Week Award to the BooDawg^^^^
Always to be counted on.
Just want to shout out to Tony Bird, showing up in his migration, sitting behind LilaBiene, Camila, and DebiRuth. Neato to see ya, Big Bird! And yes, that Mathis fellow in the beer belly is the Rev.
Thanks, Ken.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Werner, your presence at this event would have been awesome. I am not so sure how you actually feel about it, but it means a lot to others. You have a lot to contribute to this assembly of our ethic.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 30, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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I so wish Ferretlegger (Michael) and I could have been there, unfortunately we're on a road trip. It looks like a wonderful time. The historical hardware....oh to drool over!
Susan
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Was there anyone under 40 years old there?
Not many. They were out climbing in the 70 degree stellar weather this weekend. I am 38 and caught a couple of slideshows on Sat but opted to skip the the gear stuff on Sun. The slide shows that I saw were awesome and inspiring but maybe next year replace the gear day with another day of slideshows cuz i went climbing instead.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
moving thru
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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Thanks to everyone who posted their pictures and comments here and on FB. I was so sad to miss this great event, but seeing the photos and reading all the wonderful posts has been awesome.
Just thinking, seems like not many So Cal people attended....or maybe they did but just no pics or pub. Was anyone from the JTree crowd like Todd Gordon, Bridwell, Epperson, Mari, Lechlinski, KP, Al Dude or Cosgrove there? Then there's San Diego including Kevin Worrell and others.....
Cheers, Lynne
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