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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I appreciate the compliments but have ya'll any idea how much work it is to put together a quality guidebook?
Well, I guess Rick and Ron do but still, I just don't have the time. I've thought about doing a comprehensive detailed guide to the Leap but I'm missing alot of info on the Central Wall as I've only been up there a few times on various routes because of those bird closures.
What I could really use are some high resolution shots of the various walls so I can draw my topos to scale easier. My point and shoot camera just doesn't cut it. Anyone got real crisp and clear photos of all the walls at the Leap? That I guess is my major hurtle, besides time.
Rob, what topos for Eagle Rock do you want? I don't mind giving those out. It's not like people are going to be flooding up there what with the 4wd road, long hike and runnout routes.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Sal, I might just be willing and have time to assist you on the publication side of the equation. I'm winding down my construction career and am looking for something productive to do with my time. As far as pictures, i could loan you a quality camera or take some pictures myself.You really do have the best grasp on the minutia of the area of anyone out there and it would be a shame if you didn't share this info. Of course, being a confirmed capitalist, i mean share in the profitable sense.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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You know Chad, I have to agree. Through actually climbing so much of whats out there, having a real appreciation of the history and the current development, plus your attention to detail makes you perhaps the most informed local out there. I dare say Petch has insight on some Leap stuff that few have, but your postings are always detailed and acurate (at least from what I know).
Just try to remember to put enough bolts in for the rest of us:)
Has Jester had a second?
You have probably seen the thin crack that trends up and right from the anesthesia roof and peters out 50 or 60 feet up into some interesting face. I have long thought it would be a nice route but a bit of a squeeze/variation of Anesthesia. It would almost meet or perhaps would run into Jester
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Ron
Do you have an alarm that sends an electric shock through that lazyboy and into your ass to notify you every time I post?
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
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Perhaps? though anything that I put up at the Loaf last year was certainly not a squeeze job. I would suggest the term "modern day classic" to be more accurate:)
I was also suggesting that I would NOT be putting up the line at the Leap as I thought it would be a squeeze job. I could certainly point out a number of squeeze jobs put up "ground up" that should not exist.
It's all about the quality of the route and the context of the location. How it went up is nice but of relatively minor significance. BTW it is not easy to hand drill from sketchy feet and put in a 2 1/2 inch X 3/8th SS bolt, and to place anything less in this day and age is ridiculous. Chad I note, put up a route a couple years ago on sugarbum hand drilled 1/4 bolts and then rapped in pulled em all and placed 3/8 SS. Its a fine route but holy crap what a lot of time and money to be able to do it on lead. Petch has a whole rig for pulling up a drill sans battery which he carries in some pack on his person. Very impressive too, but can or has the time and inclination to make such a specialized rig? Not me i'm afraid. I just want to put up a quality route. The ethics are a fun diversion from the hum drum of the daily grind but nothing more.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 10, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Hey Aidan,
THe crack that trends up and right from anesthesia is The Last Laugh, another Smith/Harrison job. Pretty fun. Decent gear but take some small stuff (I remember being glad to have a #1 peenut.) The crack ends on that ledge atop the april fool's glory crack. Goes up the face from there.
Murky rating. I think Carville had it as '.10' somewhere else had it at .10a. I thought there were a couple moves of .10c on it. Predates Anesthesia, so A is the actual squeeze job I think, sharing the start of the second pitch before crossing over to the left and up.
Unless we're talking about different cracks?
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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Wow Ron we agree on something!
Dave,
I think it is a different crack. If you climb the A 2nd Pitch as as you do the crux traverse, at the end instead of going straight up the corner you see a little iddy biddy seam running across and up the face until it blanks out and then a few face moves. As you come down the A raps you can put a small cam up above where the crack peters out and do it on TR. Nice little romp and prob 11b/c as I recall. Only prob 50 feet or so
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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i once saw this fella,
he was precariously and perhaps dangerously perched;
on some overhanging bald granite arete.
tis lad was lie backing, said arete,
the arete was 6 inches, maybe in its proudest dimension.
the dude clung.
his feet smearing on overhanging slab
his fingers groping god's breast, well i mean the mountain,
and then he stopped.
he just stopped.
it was as though he was contemplating mass?
so if the mass of imagination is greater than
the mass of this damn planet, they we'll simply float high..
im like drop-jawed thinkin..."uh, wow. how
the fvck? do something dude. is he gonna plumet
to the dirt? shite maybe i outta sing. or....
and while i sat there dumb as i am,
he placed a tiny cam... like 00 style,
in this pissy god-cvnt seam that was no amorous,
and then he casually continued on
up the 12d desperately thin granite situation...
...all in a day's dream for my friend aiden.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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yea ron,
i concur.
when we invest our zest in biology,
we are so often left depleted and disappointed.
so might we invest in geology,
and climb
right-on past excalibur,
though we are still depleted but
at the end of the day the grit in our
teeth be-betters the beer;
the rocks 'neath our nails scribe a better letter in spiritual glass;
the sunburn upon our highest skin
glows and heats our way forward into unknown eternities.
im sorry to hear about your susan, ron.
i hope that you have walked the paths proudly again,
beyond susan.
i suspect that many of us have our own susans,
so what? we still live beligerant,
and stomps silly against gravity's will.
im.
don't hang no apostrophe 'tween pronouns and passive verbs,
we, i and you and others live just right agressively into
existence's domain.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 10, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Any of you guys climbed Eeyore's Fantasy?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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yes.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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maybe.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 10, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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i mighta been three.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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any pics of eeyore's fantasy/ecstasy as an ice climb? that sounds awesome. Any of you know a crag around tahoe where I can go dry tooling in winter?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Oct 11, 2012 - 03:26am PT
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Anesthesia's a squeeze job.
I suppose I could pull together a topo for the HWY 50/88 area. I would just have to omit some of the sport climbing areas like Luther as I've only been there once and am not willing to explore it further. That place is Crap. Also I know of several areas where divulging it's location might wind up in a disgruntled encounter with the indigenous populous. Either way, it would be a couple of years and I'd need a lot of help from alot of different people. I still haven't decided what format for topos I like best either. The supertopo format is a good start, but it always just seemed kinda stick figurish (is that a word?) to me.
Vitaliy, ice climbing in California isn't worth it. Unless you don't mind spending all winter in a cast and all spring trying to "spring back".
Trust me, I did a long stint with ice climbing. Even the best stuff around is pretty much sh#t. It does have it's short windows on certain years though. Best to have a fast car and flexible schedule.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Oct 11, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Chad,
Just the hwy. 50 corridor from Eagle rock to Echo Summit would be one complete guidebook with the amount of routes out there now.My interest in it would be solely in the publication and distribution end of it which i have the time and means to do now. Email me through ST-Let's talk a little about it.
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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I have been told quite often that the Leap needs a guide book and I should write one. But the best thing to happen to the Leap was the omission of routes in the Supertopo. To be able to climb April Fools and routes to the right on a busy weekend and feel you have the Leap to yourself is sweet.
Last time I went to Sin City was on Memorial Day weekend, where the Leap was over run and we had the whole place to ourself.
There is plenty of info out on the web and old guide books for the motivated.
Less info is some times better imo.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Speaking of Woodfords, I added a few glueons
to OOTD to aid my Fall workouts. Brings it down to a 5.9.
Feel free to use em!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Oct 11, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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Cool...thanks.
You're welcome!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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I tend to agree with Petch on this issue, although I've personally benefitted from looking at Salamanizer's topos and picking his brain about stuff.
98% of Leap routes are already documented in the Supertopo and the Carville. There's plenty of info out there for those interested in doing them. The only thing missing is a star rating system so that people know what it is they should be climbing. Some of the current topos are poor, but they're not unusable.
As for other rock on hwy 50, most of it is visible from the road and you can scavenge info with a little work.
If you're looking for something to climb at the Leap besides the same 8 routes everyone does, open up the Carville and pick one that sounds cool. Chances are it will deliver.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!