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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:38am PT
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I've got a scanner and would volunteer to scan...
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Nov 12, 2008 - 08:06am PT
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Did it about a month ago with my bro eric. We used a 70m and stretched it out every time. Did a roof variation that was definitely 10hard, and we were blown away by the quality of the route. We did the arrowhead spire first, then rapped to the start of the arete. Anyone else?
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 09:01am PT
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I agree with Fluroide, and would add that in spring you get to see the falls roaring down Indian Canyon when you're on the Great White Flake pitch.
I can't write enough about how glorious this climb is so I won't even start.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 12, 2008 - 11:03am PT
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A great Route!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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CLASSIC
Shot this the past weekend at the Reunion. Had forgotten how beautiful it is.
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Feb 10, 2009 - 05:34am PT
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This route looks like a great time! Rob Sharpe suggested it to me in the fall. Looking for something to do next weekend/monday. Hmmm...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 10, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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take you ice tools...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 10, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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When the Arrowhead Arete went up, it was not the most technically difficult route in Yosemite but was arguably the most contiuously difficult route in the country at the time.
When you are up there, imagine Mark Powell free soloing up and DOWN the route in hard soled boots!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
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Great pic Zander! That topout shot just shows the icing on the cake of this climb. And it still keeps going past that. You top out then have this heady ridgeline traverse to get across to the foot trail that leads to the first rapel. And the raps are great fun. Those wet, fern covered caverns!
A couple more months and it's return time again!
Mmmmm. I'm smiling just thinking about it.
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Feb 10, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Ya big time on those ice tools. From time to time I forget it snows and get to tranced by the rock. Or maybe I just forget that its winter when I'm still up at 2am.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 10, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Yeah Flouride, this climb keeps on coming after the top out.
I'd love to do this climb again.
Zander
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 10, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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A very young Mort Hempel, Arrowhead Arete 1960 attempt.
cheers
guido
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 10, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
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So Guido- was Mort prone to singing while climbing and, if so, what sort of material?
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Feb 10, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
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I remember the Arrowhead Arete from 1961 or so, but can't recall with whom. What impressed me about the climb was that it was not typical valley friction or crack climbing, but sort of like Tahquitz with rough rock. True face climbing. I don't recall it as particularly hard, but mostly airy. It was beautiful because of its exposure and the way you see the valley all around.
Great pitcure of Mort by Guido. Mort and I hung around some from 1960-1962 and he did some good yodeling. We also would listen to classical music LPs rented from the Berkeley Public Library, but any efforts to sing those things (Handel Oratorios in particular) were doomed to failure.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 10, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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Steve
Funny, I just got an e-mail from Mort,first contact in many years.
I don't recall Mort singing on climbs but we had some horrendous "Teton Tea" parties back then, and Mort or Bill Briggs would serenade us into the wee hours of the am. Yep, had my first hangover at age 14 in camp 4. I remember Calderwood chasing Roper with the intent to kill because he was messing about with his lady.
Hi to BBA.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Feb 11, 2009 - 02:36am PT
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got benighted on the Arrowhead Arete once, way back in the olden days...
cold up dere!
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Superb route, way up high off the valley floor... an experience from the valley floor all the way up and back again.
I climbed it in my old vibram mountain boots, I think in 2002, due to a foot injury. Still seemed about 5.8, but a few spots I had to think "What would Spencer Tracy do?"
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2009 - 04:13am PT
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Sweet, I can't believe this thread resurfaced.
If you haven't done this route, do it. You won't regret it. You'll want to keep returning.
Re-read my post from last fall and stand by it. Would still recommend late spring. Plus the backcountry views are the best then.
Was going to do a return trip up there this year but life took a different turn and the Eastern Sierra is where I stayed. Oh well, it'll always be there for next year. One you'll always look forward to.
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