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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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Nice TR!
They should have let you pass for sure.
I like your style man
TC
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Aug 11, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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That last crack out on the right has been climbed. Nice clean airy finish though.
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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I had no strong feelings re Team Tony one way or another but i hope they crushed, I just didn't want to hear the play by play. And yes I still have some work to do on the whole 'nicer person thing', I'm working on it.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Aug 12, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Awesome story man! I've had similar scenarios with women teams from Tahoe and Berkley as well. I always just thought it was me. Too funny man.
Way to get after it and have a fun time out in the High Country.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 12, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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you seem nice enough.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Aug 12, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Roadie, Good job - that was real patience up there !
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Riley, you and I would have blown past em and left their whimpering far below!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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It is. Seems like the work of an ego that believes ability = status. There is never any doubt where people's abilities are, it becomes apparent after watching one minute of someone climbing. When you see climbers crushing rock below you just get outta the way.
Seems like a Euro thing, being rude and getting in people's way. If you are really the sh#t nobody passes you because you're cruising, the way it should be when you choose the right route for your ability.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Aug 13, 2012 - 01:47am PT
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roadie, extremly entertaining tr. having gone into the hulk 2 weekends ago, i was astonished to see the crowds on the hulk as we hiked in. when my partner and i got to the base of red dihedral the next morning, there were 3 parties ahead of us, the first moving at a snail's pace. luckily, the party just ahead of us offered us a topo a beeline, and even offered us a big cam for the route. it turned out to be a great alternative. we climbed behind a steady, if not fast, newly wedded couple that swung leads and laughed at all my jokes and songs. great people, fun to share the rock with.
but climbing on the hulk is NOT a wilderness experience...anymore.
however, the next day, my partner and i did the southeast arete of outguard spire, and DID get an awesome wilderness experience on an adventurous, steep, and challenging route. nobody seems to climb on the west side of the valley. except for some people hooting at us, we felt alone in the canyon that day.
also, instead of bivyng near the base, with minimal water sources, we stayed at maltby lake, and although it is ten more minutes of hiking, we had the lake all to ourselves for 3 days. ss
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 01:54am PT
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Outgaurd looks sick! As does the reggae pole and everything else over there
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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They must be from Truckee.
All hail the Bishop hard man.
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Aug 14, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Nice one dude, great read. You are pretty nice in my book.
steve
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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The Hulk is a freaking zoo now, and it makes me really sad because I, like most here, adore the place. I'd like to see tighter enforcement on permits and mandating the use of wag bags or the like for overnight trips, for starters. Either that or install and outhouse up there and charge people more money to helicopter out the buckets a couple of times a year (they do this in the Bugaboos in Canada for example).
I had never gone car-to-car before but 2 weeks ago my friend and I went to do PV car-to-car - what we found once we got there made me want to puke. There were at least 18 people on the Hulk not counting us, 10 of which were on on PV's first three pitches (two if you count the first 2 pitches as one..). We were the only ones car-to-car that day, so you do the math on how many permits are available for overnight stay there and how many people didn't obey the limits.
I'm all for reducing / removing regulations but what I saw truly disgusted me, and it still bothers me 2 weeks later. Several extremely loud and obnoxious parties, too. I think I see better manners in the Bay Area gyms... depressing.
(Oh, we climbed Beeline instead. Great route, the two 5.10 variation pitches are amazing... good thing too, as the thunderstorms rolled in so it was good to do a quicker route and get out of there)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 19, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
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Super entertaining write up. Not sure why people are so rude. If there is ever someone much faster than my party I let them go ahead unless we are a few pitches from the top, or behind another slow party. Not letting someone much faster pass would be fairly awkward- having someone tailgating you up the route. "My good friend Dave Nettle said..." that's pure gold. I will use that some day, sounds hard core.
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ruppell
climber
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Aug 19, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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Roadie
You know the old saying "Nice guys finish last"? Well in this case it's true. You should of just passed them without saying a word.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Aug 19, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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To quote a famous line from the recent past by Ron Anderson, "Chirst!"
But the mountains ain't a golf course. Rude people abound everywhere, in civilization and in the boonies.
Ever try to "play through" on the links? Here's where the true as#@&%es congregate. Slow play will get you on the clock in a professional golf tournament. But who's willing to join the USCA or the PCA and follow rules?
I'd rather follow fools and kick back and ridicule all day. It's free entertainment, commonly called "cheap thrills." And you don't need to get mad, so technically you are still "nice." Ricicule is a tool used on fools to get them to think about their behavior, but it's usually over their heads, contain tiny brains.
You could hurl epithets but those only antagonize. Throw rocks and they might just be motivated to move faster, but it's doubtful. They are not "conscious" as they move and lose the freedom of the hills as a consequence. Probably worrying about what their "good buddy" Nettle will say about what they say about the climb. Shallow, unconscious beauties, they are.
That was a finely told t. r., I must say. You rock! Just for sheets and grins, I would like to hear D tell this story, as well. POV is obviously different, but she sounds like she's way more cool than either K could possibly be. Her reaction to your reaction is what I'm trying to figure.
And the story of the Leaning Tower approach...schwing!
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
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Am I the only one who found the OP a bit self-righteous? ,
no.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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Am I the only one who found the OP a bit self-righteous? ,
no.
Strangely enough, no. But you are in the minority, I think.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Was going to say more, but realized everyone supporting him goes to the hulk, good, stay there. There's nothing better in the Sierra.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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I recommend avoiding all-together privilaged white people between the ages of 23 to 30 (myself included). Often obnoxious, with a feeble grasp of the way the world works, they run solely on anxiety and extreme insecurities. Entitlement and a monster ego are often at play, for never will they address the true issue - they are scared on a route - and it comes out in all manners. Some dudes scream at their lady partners, some people don't let faster teams play through (misery loves company), some others just hole up and don't say a word.
The worst experiences I've ever had with other parties always had a few things in common:
some kind of couple or opposite sex dynamic (I hear from both sides, guy was being a prick to women nearby, women didn't let you pass... same sexes understand eachother better, I guess...)
Young, white, with new shiny gear (like me)
route was at or slightly above their limit
Climbed rarely outdoors (a 5.8 chimney is a big ego check for a "five ten gym climber" and can cause some... drama....)
The best experiences climbing I've had with other partners I've noticed:
-Sex is irrelevant
-they were people who climbed almost every day
-the route was 'in the bag,' if not easy
This has happened on Big walls, single pitch routes, tahquitz... you name it. The best experiences are always the locals who don't bullshit themselves, they are there because they LOVE IT and don't care if there are others on the route. Only a fool would jump on Cathedral Peak if crowds gave you a headache. I'm an incredibly obnoxious talky dude (many on ST will attest to that) and have no qualms about talking to anyone in earshot - some people *really don't like it.*
Sometimes I can read the situation, and if I get that real piercing gaze (or the 'if you were my husband you'd be on the couch' thing) I keep my mouth shut. But if you say hello back, you're pretty much f*#ked, because I'm going to try to make you laugh/try to get your attention(maybe??? parents didn't hug me enough???? who knows????) over the course of X pitches.
So. Just nod and be nice. I'm gonna talk your f*#king ear off. To avoid people like me, train a little bit. I don't climb too hard, just jump on something you have to be moderately good at and I'll never be in your way!
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