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wilcox510
climber
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Doesnt anyone else think Potter was being rather selfish, giving climbers a bad name by clearly violating the law in an act of "look at me doing some cool and illegal!" intentionally video taped? Access is strained across the country already, why piss off the NPS with a stunt like that? I'm not going to argue whether it should be illegal to climb it or not, but NPS/climber relationships arent great anyways in a lot of parks, so I think a little more common sense is in order. He claims to solo for something like the purity of climbing with just you and the rock, then he has himself filmed doing it, interesting. I'm astonished Patagonia would ever consider publicising this idiotic stunt that one of their "ambassadors" pulled, putting further strain on access issues for the rest of climbers who dont pull selfish stunts like this.
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todd-gordon
climber
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Paul;....I understand your logic, and you ARE correct that there ARE alot of climbers out there....we have to be responsible for our actions....a few can spoil it for all of the rest. I think the news, press, and publicity is a BIGGER issue than the stupid ol' unfounded rule of not climbing on any named arch. The reason this rule came into being, I believe, is to keep people off Landscape arch, because 2 people died trying to scramble up the thing. If Dean just climbed the thing when no one was around, except his buddies, I don't think ANYONE would have a problem. (Hell; no one would know; would they?)...I climbed Landscape Arch at 6:00 A. M about 25 years ago....no press or spray.....only me, and my heart beating twice as fast as normal...it was awesome!....It's the same with Reardon;....it's not his soloing, but the spray and the way he carrys out his campaign. It's more the spray than the act. The act is awesome... the press and silly rules are lame-o. Sometimes ya got to be "sneeky" every now and then. I lived on the Navajo Indian Reservation for years and climbed there for decades... I don't agree with THEIR silly rules too... but I just went about my "business" of climbing without tooting or having a film crew with me.... and I had some awesome adventures..........Be sly.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I can't see how one could rap off without causing some rope grooving.
I respect and like both Dean and Steph but I am uneasy with this. Until I know more I won't condemn the ascent however it could well prove to be another nail in the coffin of desert climbing.
Still, by now I was hoping to see Werner and 46 having a snack on the summit.
Ouch?
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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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In this case, I wouldn't say Potter is anything special. Sure, he has a sponsor who publicized the event, but how many of us would pass up a chance to do the same? Pretty much all of us dirtbags are the same deep down inside. None of us think the rules apply to us, and that is what makes incredible things possible.
I'd have climbed it too.
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WBraun
climber
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Why is this arch off limits to climbing?
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ZAllen
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dean was busy this weekend, I guess. I watched him BASE jump off of the Titan on saturday. Twice!
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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re. "I am very conscientious about following nature's rules. I respected the arch to the fullest. I did no more than blow a little dust off a few handholds," Potter said."
However, on the very same page that quote appeared is a photo of his climb supplied by Potter himself. What he doesn't seem to grasp is the fact that distributing such photos with marketing/promotional goals in mind creates an impact that is probably more substantial than the dust he disturbed.
It brings up some interesting questions regarding what being a "professional" climber means these days. It seems that most make income to support their climbing lifestyle by selling their likeness as a promotional tool to gear and clothing manufacturers. If you’re going to promote your climbing feats as inspiration to other climbers don't you have to recognize that your actions carry greater impact than that of your average dirt bag climber? Personally, I don't care about the specific access issues involved with this arch but I imagine some people certainly do. I can't help but think it's incredibly naive of Potter to pretend that the only thing disturbed was some dust.
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10b4me
Ice climber
The Happies
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I respect and like both Dean and Steph but I am uneasy with this.
I have lost some respect for Dean. Rather selfish don't you think?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Maybe.
I don't like knee jerk judgements.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Yo.... Ive got to agree with Paulj 100%...no good can come from such an in your face act... plus the pictures show that he climbed it at the worst possible place, where the formation is the weakest. Plus it has to be a little slippery and skatey like TG says... that comes from tearing off small amounts of the formation, and that accelerates the erosion process. If the thing fell down tomorrow, naturally, through no fault of Deans, he would be blamed and what would that do for desert climbing access?
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Delicate Arch isn't the most delicate thing out there. That thing is pretty darn solid. It isn't going to fall down in my or my son's lifetime... and f. the rules.
But, if Potter wants to claim some kind of "purity of ascent" and "respect for nature" he better lose the film crew and the rappel rope. That is bs. He definitely left a groove in that baby.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Did he sign the register?
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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"Be sly."
T. Gordon, '06
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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I support Deans ascent, illegal or not, he did absolutely nothing wrong. He made a choice to climb on a part of the planet with a name affixed to it, laws affixed it, myth surrounding it and now controversy surrounding it. He did it with minimal impact to the formation too.
Half dome has a fvcking cable route going up it and it looks terrible!! The white scar that repetitive foot travel has created and how about those post and cables?! It is legal to climb it too, it is on the USA quarter dollar, it is also in designated wilderness. Something pretty bvllshit and ironic about our laws. They send a mixed message to the public and are inconsistent. I propose a toast to civil disobedience, Na Zdravi!
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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The arches on the map are illegal, because of their popularity. Literally hundreds will climb yearly, if allowed.
Sandstone is very delicate....some of these formations are like described by Kor: "layers of moistened kitty litter".
Potter describes rubbing off dust from holds. We've all climbed on routes in which the rocks have become ice-smooth from repeated rubbing....and that is hard granite.
He used a rope to rap. That must have caused some friction on the rock, and a little wear.
If it is ok to climb this formation free, causing a very tiny amount of wear, why is it not ok to put in a little pro, causing a little more wear?
Thus the argument is why not cause wear and damage to this formation, if I really want to climb it? Well, it has value beyond that of a climbing destination....to a much broader segment of the population than just climbers.
So what the line of reasoning is, is that those who would climb, are perfectly willing to damage an irreplacable icon of our country, illegally, for our own gain. Potter would seem to compound this, as he was clearly not doing it for personal satisfaction, but for commercial enrichment.
Sorta puts him in exactly the category of an illegal alien.
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Eddie
Trad climber
Boston
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glad he didn't fall. That might not have been the best publicity.
And what's with the roped descent? Multiple times?
What's it go at?
If we hurry, maybe we can get the FA from the other direction...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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The thing that seems colossally dumb in this is Patagucci's involvement. surely, if anyone should know better ....
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Damn it, Dean should have been sly - he prolly regrets the publicity now. For me, part of the excitement in breaking the rule is being stealth, being sneaky - that inner giggle of a debaucherous act. Don't think I haven't stood there and looked up at this very arch - very tempting. Hmmmm, lets see what the opening moves are like - damn tempting indeed.
This is just the wrong kind of exposure - commercial type. Its too bad for all of us as this was not a spirited ascent - more like descrecrating something sacred in the name of a publicity stunt. I have never liked show offs - to much ego for me.
tears and cheers ;)
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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My source at the NPS has told me an arrest warrant has been issued for Potter. If he is reading this he should probally turn himself in to the nearest LEO.
Juan
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Wow, interesting logic.
"it's ok to litter, if no one catches you."
"it's ok to sh#t in the stream, if you are not seen"
No wonder land managers think of us as untrustworthy dirtbags.
This is the logic of chronic criminals:
Not getting caught is the moral equivalent of not doing anything wrong.
Next time someone steals your rack, or unties your anchor up above, take solace in their logic.
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