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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Wow, are people really advocating rappelling the Nose for fun? If you are scoping the wall, maybe it makes sense.
Rappelling kills more people than actually climbing.
What is the point? Are you practicing for a big retreat?
Sorry Werner, but why would you want to encourage this? I was in the Valley when John Mokri died. Struck a nerve.
Peace
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 25, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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Well, I'd say prolly 50% of the parties setting out to climb El Cap end up rapping so why not just cut to the chase?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 25, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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Good idea. Make sure you let Tom E know of your plans, and parade on the bridge before and afterward. He'll surely report, and may appreciate the novelty.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Jul 25, 2012 - 01:35am PT
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Do it Bay to Breakers style in a salmon costume and bring an air horn so folks get out of your way.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 25, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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Ha! Grossman outed as a big-wall booty gatherer! Fits with his fearless demeanor.
That is great history there. Thanks Werner.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jul 25, 2012 - 01:39am PT
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Sorry Werner, but why would you want to encourage this?
Things must be slow at YOSAR.
Curt
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jul 25, 2012 - 01:46am PT
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You guys talking about the "Speedlunker" It was Sept. 92'
We watched him go all the way.......
Curious how you saw him from the free blast when that guy whiped from the top of the Dawn wall? Were you able to see him crater next to Lay Lady ledge from over there on the free blast?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 25, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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I remember Mom telling me a story about a climber rappelling off the end of his rope in the early 70's on El Cap?
She always said that if he had tied a knot in the end of his rope(s), it would have never happened. I also recall how she said it shocked the climbing community of the time and that he was a well-respected climber. Crap. I wish my memory was better.
Just a random memory from the deep past. Anyone remember who that was?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jul 25, 2012 - 03:09am PT
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You can rap it, why not? I wouldn't but who cares what you do.
Main thing to consider is, if you get a rope stuck... you're fukked.
Rap the Lost Arrow rap route. It's pretty strait forward, exposed and has little obstacles with which to get your rope stuck. I've descended it twice, once in pitch black.
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bullfrog
Trad climber
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Jul 25, 2012 - 03:17am PT
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Do it Bay to Breakers style in a salmon costume and bring an air horn so folks get out of your way.
I can't argue with this.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 25, 2012 - 06:54am PT
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I remember in the 70's there was this guy who put up the rap route on the nose. He would hang around camp four sometimes. Can't remember his name but I don't think he climbed anything, just was focused on rapping the nose. Odd dude.
Marty
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jul 25, 2012 - 07:38am PT
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I've rappelled the Nose. It is actually quite straightforward and fun with cool ledges to picnic on on the way down. You will have to bring along a bunch of leaver biners or quick-links. Have fun (and be safe)!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 25, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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That's it! Tom Rohrer
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 10:50am PT
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A Chino woman was fatally injured Tuesday when she fell during a climbing and rappelling demonstration at Suicide Rock ...
Karen Gose, 27, fell while descending a rock face during a climbing and rappelling demonstration, the Riverside County coroner reported.
Gose, identified as a "volunteer hiking guide," fell an estimated 30 to 40 feet.
in memoriam to this perhaps senseless loss, let us revive the back-up-the-damn-rappel debate.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Mister E, the guy that rappelled off the end of his rope; sounds like Jim Madsen.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 25, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Right Dick and Mister E. That was Madsen, in 1968, October. And there WAS a knot, but as was tested later in Camp, the knot traversed out through Jim's brake arrangement. Also part of the picture was the dude was really loaded down with more rope and hardware and rescue stuff. And ALL by himself, panicking over Pratt's safety, though Chuck and partner (Fredericks, I think) were just fine where they were, waiting out the weather.
Back to topic: the notion that rappelling is anything other than a particularly deadly activity best avoided, is silly.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jul 25, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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That makes two times in two years I've heard of rappelling accidents by folks who were 'guiding' or 'teaching'. What the?
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