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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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It's chimneying spaced in-between bankruptcy law and estates and trusts.
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Zander
climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Firewater Chimney in Joshua Tree
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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estates, trusts, chimneying, upper-colonics, a theme is beginning to emerge
ok.
favorite chimney? green arch was a chimney for me, or at least i had my butt against one wall, and it was pretty cool, so maybe that one. although it wasn't nearly as fun as sunshine chimneys, which is fun precisely because there isn't much chimneying on it.
hardest-- penguins in bondage. and i'll claim extra credit for doing it the authentic hardman way, right-side in. and no knee pads.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Ying-Yang, P2. I just liked it. I got pretty worked.
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soaring_bird
Trad climber
Oregon
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Crescent Crack, low on the Direct NW Face of Half Dome is technically very easy, but beautifully arced and geometrically esthetic. The exit traverse is fun. You hate to leave the chimney which continues further above.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Lost Arrow Chimney has to have the coolest position of any chimney I've done...and the Harding hole finish is a delight...but then again those chimneys on Wild Thing are real attention grabbers.
I always drooled over the Pratt Chimney on Middle Cathedral but by some stroke of luck never made it up there. I've always been curious what a chimney high up on Middle, named for Chuck Pratt would be like.
First ascent of the North Face of Middle Cathedral Rock was in 1959 with Steve Roper and Bob Kamps. A certain difficult crack on that route was given the name the Pratt Chimney. Royal later would write of this pitch, "Chuck's lead of this chimney is certainly one of the most remarkable leads in the history of American mountain climbing."
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Great thread, Stephanie. Honeymoon Chimney is a route I'm very interested in for this fall (the 5.9 C0 varation). On a related note, this photo of the route from MP is worth spreading :-)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107282389
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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jeebus.
that's almost as bad as the hairy naked guy on the other thread.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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Brings a new meaning to big bro. I'm not even sure what you've got going on there... 3 big bros jerry rigged together??
KLK: Upper Colonics?? WTF?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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The Golden Tunnel on top of Candlestick on the Thaiwand wall. Super easy but just such a cool feature in a wild position, and then after you hang out up top, you rap back through the tunnel and into space - and you better have a fixed rope to pull you back into the next station!
Couldn't find a tunnel photo but here's a view of the rap from mountain project:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107055371
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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The first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney is the real deal . . . squeeeze! Such a great location out at the end of the great buttress.
Sorry no photo.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Anyone who claims to have a favorite chimney should seek help ASAP.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Off-balance rock. Arches NP.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Crescent Crack, and any chimney way up on El Cap, because I'm way up on El Cap!!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Favorite chimney? All the ones in the Valley that I have done.
Churchbowl which I did for the first time with my arm in a cast.
It was the only thing I could climb in that condition.
The Iota because that was the first rock climbing lead I ever did.
Washington Column because it has pitch after pitch of chimneys.
Sadly it doesn't seem to be done much anymore although people
are still climbing the Royal Arches.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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No-brainer.
ENTRANCE EXAM, II, 5.9.
I passed.
Pitch #1 was my first legit nine on lead, and I had only to climb 60 feet, so there is little to remember. BUT it turned into a sideshow on the next, longer pitch. And this must have happened fairly often to others on their first trip up the thing. Mathis tooled up the chimney, deep calm place, (totally un-like the famous horizontal chimney, the Ear, my next favorite, altogether a shizzy leaky slut of a pitch I love you Lobella).
The belay was on but the rope's not tight, I can't move til the rope's tight sit tight til the rope's tight it'll be all right...but the rope was jammed twixt flake and wall. AW, CRAP!
Yelling doesn't seem to be helping and he's not asleep. We still have an other pitch. It's karma, yep. I remember how pissed he was when I walked away from the belay to light my Pall Mall. (Tried and true n00b screw-up.)
So I did what I had done on Bugaboo Spire to get off the face and back to the summit using the rap lines (see my first post in Unplanned Bivouacs):
I chimneyed up to where it seemed decent to stop and tied in short with a U-shaped loop hanging down, chimneyed up some twenty or so feet, tied in again and let the other knot out, forming a bigger loop and so on til I got to the flake.
By then Mathis could hear me, but I told him in no uncertain terms I was kind of in a jam, please, Jeff, just keep me on belay I think I got it. The fockin' rope was pretty tightly jammed because the whole time he had been pulling the rope tight as he could--it was all he could do. I freed the rope after fouling the air in that nice airy chimney with expletives on ropes in general. More bad karma, but that's another tale.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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North Tower of East Temple, Wind Rivers - interesting exploring
The Angel Glacier, Edith Cavell North Face - back to ice, feet on rock
Moby Dick left (before the chockstone fell out) - technically interesting
the Slack - aesthetically interesting
The Iota - photographically interesting
Church Bowl Chimney - short form fun
Washington Column 'Direct Route' - long form fun
Hot Buttered Rump - improbably interesting
The Flakes at Tahquitz - unusually interesting
Guano Chimney on Grand Teton - biologically interesting
Seneca Gendarme - fell down a few days after we climbed it
The 300' Gong Flake on Lower Cathedral Rock - scary spelunking squeeze, now fallen off
Radcliffe at the Gunks - with my son at age 5
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Hey there "sportscaster" Jan-
I highly recommend sport casting in chimneys, on Jumars, "wherever particular people congregate." (Old cigarette slogan--Pall Malls, I think.)
I jugged the first pitch of Stigma in an ankle cast. I was impressive. One of the chicks married me. :) Then divorced me. :(
Not to upstage you, but to show what he could do, Cowboy Larry Moore climbed the first half of the first pitch of Church Bowl Terrace, (I, 5.8):
"Climb an easy, broken chimney for 30 feet...," reads Roper.
But you know Cowboy, you know why his other handle is Crazy Larry. Good climber, but FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS CLIMB UPSIDE DOWN. In Super Guides.
Wearing a cowboy hat. (It fell off, so he waited for me to climb up to him so he could put it on again.)
Stupid, dumb-ass, show-off. I'm glad he wasn't drinking....
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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This one is pretty cool too, but it's a bitch to get to.
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North
climber
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I always thought chimneys and OW were what jumars were for?????
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