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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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Sundance is on the list, Randy;...get out the bi-focals......(Iron Cross needs to be on that list, don't it...)....
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:01am PT
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14 1/2 of em
All of them to Sundance, all of them up to #11 multiple times.
The Pirate as an aid climb, when it was an aid climb. (70)
Took a bad fall off Etude back when it was an aid climb.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:08am PT
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16. May take a little while to bag the rest.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:22am PT
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Haven't done nearly enough, especially since that stuff is only an hour away from me. Only been on the Tahquitz side once, but did the Vampire on that day, so I guess that's a good start. Six days on Suicide, but 3 of those were soley for one route.
8. Flower of High Rank 5.9
13. Sundance 5.10b
14. Etude 5.11a
16. Vampire 5.11a
19. Paisano Overhang 5.12c R
Only 5. Thinking Valhalla in the next couple of weeks.
Funny how what's probably the best 5.10 pitch on either side doesn't even get listed because it's the last pitch of a harder route (Quiet Desperation...rap in from Paisano ledge if you don't want the 11d thin stuff on QD). It's a superb, clean flake lieback, around 5.10-.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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What, no Sword of Damocles?!?
Or has that one fallen off by now...
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Plan B
Ice climber
Agua Dulce,CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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I've done 11 on the list.
I still have to do the Flower, but always seems to have a crowd.
Some other great routes I like are
El Whampo 5.7
Grace Slick .10b
and one of my favorite is West Lark 5.5
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:39am PT
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I've done all but 2, the Green Arch and Paisano Overhang. I did the Pirate on aid so I guess that kind of only counts for 1/2. Randy is right in that routes like Fred and Iron Cross should be on it instead of a couple Todd listed. Maybe if Insomnia wasn't listed twice they might be.
edit: sorry, misread Vampire and Vallaha as the same and it came out Insomnia, fuksticks
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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I've done the first 18 of them.
Paisano is on the ticklist, and I've been working on the occasional inversion OW to get the skills down for it but one of these days I'll have to put in a concerted effort to get mad fit for that one. Laps on Boulder 13 inverted will be good training when I finally decided to go for that one.
I tried The Pirate on TR. I'm not sure if I'll ever put in the time to work/lead that thing. It's just thin, insecure weirdness. Beautiful line, but not very enjoyable IMO. I'd rather put my time in on something else so I doubt I'll get around to leading that one.
Josh
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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Couple more of my favs:
TAHQUITZ
Unchaste 5.10d
Turbo Flange 5.11b (The Edge)
Open Book 5.9
Pharoah to Vampire 5.12b (my fav complete route at Tahquitz)
Stairway to Heaven 5.12b (super good, most air of any route in Idylwild)
Green Rosetta 5.10d??
SUICIDE
Hades 5.12c (1st pitch is best slab pitch - 12a - on the rock)
Disco Jesus 5.11b
Caliente 5.12c (spectacular)
Someone Your Not 5.13? (best line, perfect rock, historical)
Mickey Mantle 5.8 Gotta do it (or Pink Royd, nearby)
Ten Karat Gold 5.10a (classic)
Rebolting Development 5.11b (heady, remarkable for 1971 in Robbins boots)
Godzilla's Return (head trip, novel)
Obscured by Clouds 5.11a (rated 5.10d) Don't fall
JL
I've ticked the list plenty times but my fingers are too fat and I can't even start The Pirate free. I tried face climbing it on a TR and got like 10 feet. I can't pull a single lock.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 11, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Did the sword back when it was there. I've heard rumors it's gone now.
El Wampo, Grace Slick, El Grandote all good.
NE Face West over on that side is a fun one also. IMO superior to the Larks.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 11, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Many years ago did the first 19 (aided the Pirate). Last few years I have been repeating the first few on the list. Still a beautiful place to be at, and the rock is great, no matter what the rating. Todd thanks for making me remember those good times...
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Apr 11, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
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Checking the ticks in my 1973 Wilts guide, I have all but 4. Some, like the "Green Arch" in winter, with aid. As mongrel says-most before'70. The list looks well-rounded.
Here's a photo of Paul on a free attempt of the "Flakes" in '72. Paul always ran it out, saving pro "in case the climbing got hard". I think this is the second pitch of "Stairway to Heaven" too. (Those plucky Stonemasters were always one step ahead of us with the FFAs!)
I remember seconding the roof on "Le Toit" in '67 thinking it would go free too. Here's Phil on it way back when.
Steve G.
I was there the day Gosling and Harrell did the FA of "Damoclese" in '68. Looked pretty sketchy to me even then! Steck and Wilts did another death flake- "Guillotine"- about that time too and my partner-Ray Palmer was keen on getting an early ascent of it along with "Serpentine" and "Surprise" etc... Fun times then, always running into Camps, Wilts, Couch, Turney, Reynolds.
If the algorithm measures popularity, maybe climbs like "Swallow" and "Long Climb" will be open next time I'm there. Always thought the chute at the top of the "Larks" was a magical place-full of moss ferns and flowers in '65. Wonder what it looks like now.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 11, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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For the life of me I absolutely cannot fathom how the Source at Suicide could ever be left off anyone's top 10 list, much less top 20 list. Know what I mean?
Lists like that are pretty subjective. MP probably just needs more input on some routes not in the list and it would correct itself a little.
Gotta agree about the flake (last) pitch of QD/Ishi. Superb.
JL has several in his list that should be right up there. At both the big/little stones.
Also, pretty hard to beat Moondance. In spite of how good the QD/Ishi lieback is, that could be the best route on the Sunshine - at a minimum. (obviously just IMO)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 11, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Also, pretty hard to beat Moondance.
Moondance is great. I've done it twice, the first time I had fun and it was engaging. The second (and last,) I decided it's not one of those routes I wanted to keep coming back and doing again and again. Yikes!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
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The Dr. flanked by MP and Dave Stahl. Rob R in there as well.
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deejay
Trad climber
AV
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Apr 11, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Totally concur that Fred belongs on that list, Ten Karat Gold too.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Apr 11, 2012 - 06:56pm PT
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Moondance is excellent, but not destined to become a trade route. But what does Henny know?
JL's list has some great climbs, and there are even more. But, it seems that most people do the same routes and haven't experienced some true gems.
Also, I'd strike off El Camino -- one only pretty good pitch, but kinda junky before and nothing special after. On The Road is better imho, but even it shouldn't be on a top 20 list.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 11, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Randy repeatedly hits the nail on the head. With at least glancing blows.
Moondance is excellent, but not destined to become a trade route.
Does it need to be a trade route to make a top howevermany list? If top classics, perhaps. Otherwise, maybe not.
But what does Henny know? The older I get, it seems the less. However, the best way to fit in on ST is to act like you know it all anyway.
But, it seems that most people do the same routes and haven't experienced some true gems. Fact.
Agreed on El Camino.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Apr 11, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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18 from the list, the Pirate on aid. The last pitch of Ishi can be reached by doing the first pitch of the Drain Pipe and then traversing right and up to the bottom of the flake. Did this with E eons ago. Not sure how hard it is, perhaps a touch harder than the Drain Pipe. No bolts added, not seriously run. That last pitch on Ishi is classic.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
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Etude and Seasons End are two of my favorites at Suicide. Its been almost 20 years since I have done either of the two but I remember them fondly as being pure fun to lead.
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