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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 24, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Agreed that A Major Concept is one of the best at Rubidoux. Great rock, some length, some crack, and good moves if doing the roof exit. Not the hardest, but definately one of the best up there.
There wasn't much "competition" for any of the later stuff. Easy pickings in that respect for the few of us who were really active during that time.
I think the problem most competed for was probably the Autopilot. There were quite a few more people active and it seemed that several people focused in on it at about the same exact time. I don't even remember who bagged it now, maybe John or Robs remember.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 24, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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A few pictures of a green mountain, always the best time of year.
That paint at the Island is way bogus. They did a decent job sand blasting some of it, but still annoying as all get out.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 24, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
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What is it with all the pads?
We didn't need no Stinkin' pads.
No wonder Werner's a grouch.
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Climbing-Impaired
Social climber
Grass Valley, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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I too began my climbing at Roubidoux in the mid-70's, even then it was a place of legend where you could catch a glimpse of some of the true masters. One Saturday my friend Neal Konami and I went out for a day of bouldering and Neal had brought along a cute girl from school that he was interested in. She was a gymnast and had a brother who climbed but it was still a bit of a new experience for her. We started with some of the classic 5.6-5.8 cracks and face boulders and she seemed to really enjoy it.
I don't remember the name but there was a boulder (5.9 or 10a) move over on the west side - sorry age taking its toll - that involved a short vertical crack and then you manteled up onto the top of a flake and from there reached out and around an overhang to the top of the boulder. Neal and I would get as far as the top of the flake but kept dropping off trying to make the overhang move. Then this girl tries it and due to her small size and great strength ratio - stands up on the flake under the over-hang, then using both hands reaches around and pops over the top. Neal and I were nothing short of amazed.
That girl really took to climbing in the years that followed while Neal and I faded into climbing obscurity. Her name you ask? Lynn Hill.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Apr 25, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
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My favorite story from my friend Tony Condon was about him out bouldering with Robs Muir at the finger crack by Smooth Sole. A couple of climbers were working on the crack and Robs ask if he could jump in and try it. He then proceeded to climb it one handed to the shock of the other climbers. I've run into Robs a few times out there and was always impressed how smooth and easy he makes everything look.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Apr 25, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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John....Thank you for starting this thread. Without contributions like this much of the history of Mt. Rubidoux could be lost. There seems to be a trend on MP and in guideboooks to rename many of the problems, as the poster/author doesn't have the history and facts. Again, many thanks!!!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 25, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Nice picture BillO. You can see Skidder and The Transvestite on the boulder to the right as well.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Apr 25, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Thanks Henny it was borrowed from MP.
As far as the climbs to the right all I've ever seen is blank rock. LOL
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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I remember being a youth and seeing a dude send that thin crack one-handed. Not Muir though, kind of blondish, way buff, real quiet. Impressive though. I still remember it some 30 yrs. later.
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REIGN 1
Social climber
Las Vegas, Nv
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Apr 25, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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In the early 90's Henny and Powell invited Mike Verdugo and me up to do some bouldering. As we started walking up the hill we run into Tim Powell and not knowing who we were ask's Powell "did those woodson guys your going to sandbag ever show up?" Right then we knew we were in for a long day. They put us on pretty much every hard problem on that damn hill.
Mike pulled off some hard stuff and I floundered the whole day. After that we went back to woodson to find harder problems to burn them off on.
Lots of fun hanging with those two and listening to their sh#t talking. They are great motivators and can take it as well as dish it out.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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I think it was the contest (Western Bouldering Championship?)in 1979 where the winner, Mike Freedman, just happens to be one of the most outstanding mathematicians in the world. Didn't he try a boulder problem others hadn't wanted to try, including Bachar, and succeed?
(Just another plug for scientists/mathematicians!)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 25, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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Do any of you know where-tf Ben Borsen is now days? I ran into him in the '80s (like at Glen Park Canyon in SF?). This is a photo I took at Indian Rock around 71. I just figured since he had a Rubidoux wall named after him. ...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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After that we went back to woodson to find harder problems to burn them off on.
It was the Pink Bug that finally pushed you guys over the edge. Something about having blunt aretes like that a dime a dozen at Woodson, only longer and harder. All that was needed was to find one and do it. We're thinking, "yeah, right." Got a call a couple of weeks later that Slap You Silly was ready for us, so come on down.
Gotta admit, Slap You Silly does trump the Pink Bug. SYS may have been one of my more focused efforts, probably directly related to desperately trying to avoid getting burned off.
Great, great times Donny.
Didn't he try a boulder problem others hadn't wanted to try, including Bachar, and succeed?
I think the 79 contest was at Santee (San Diego.) That's more or less what happened. How funny, I was one of the others, haha. Three of us tied for second (JB was one) because we had seen someone zero on the problem early on and didn't want to risk it. He (Mike Freedman) did the math and figured he could win without having done as many hard problems because the hard problem offset things pointwise enough. He then waited until the very end of the contest to ensure no one would have any time after he did it. He calculated his way to that win, in more ways than one.
Never met Borsen, I was a few years later on the scene. Kind of wish I had met some of those that went through earlier. Heard a lot about them from people like JL, but never had the pleasure.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:17am PT
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How many times have any of you gone to BeeHive wall, and there were no bees?
Anyone?
Ever?
Always freaked me out going out right on that feature.
How many folks would finish their day on the the traverses at the bridge?
What does the bridge go at, if you don't use any part of the vertical sides, just the underside of the arch? Does it go?!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 28, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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^^^^ Perhaps it's still true... I think those critters have become Africanized, as I got stung twice in the face a while back. BITD they were never a problem and we climbed on the Bridge Wall all the time.
Harrison told me once that seven laps was his record. My tips were always fried by the time we hit that part of the Circuit.
Love the above story, but I certain your talking about Paul. He had that "bulldog tenacity" when it came to working problems.
Thanks Phil. Of course, I meant to say Paul Gleason! But I've exceeded the ST statute of limitations, so I can't go back and edit it.
Paul told me that he went back after doing Center Smooth Sole and proved to himself that it was climbable in lugged boots, 'though he continued to use PAs as his regular bouldering shoe.
Do any of you know where-tf Ben Borsen is now days?
Ben and I spoke not too long ago... He's doing quite well, and I was amused to learn that after 30 years of no contact each of us had named one of our sons Galen. Although he never was able to become a medical doctor, he's got credentials and honors galore. You might want to check out borsonlaw.com
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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BUMP..
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I do believe Roubidoux season is about to enter it's prime, right? Has it rained much in Riverside lately?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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real nice shot Johann
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