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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 14, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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But no one knows why cortisone works exactly. It works on asthma and allergies and back and neck pain too, but all of those conditions have a strong psychogenic component. They all involve so-called "inflamation" that no one can really document. Something going on there, but what exactly? I guess if it works and the shoe fits, wear it. I do know that you can use cortisone only a couple of times and then the magic curative powers go away. Obviously, worth a couple of tries.
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skitch
Trad climber
pdx
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Mar 14, 2012 - 01:49am PT
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Cortisone???? I thought that was a last resort for high school heroes.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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Great advice everyone - thank you!
It's nice that there a bunch of friendly people you can draw on for advice, but sometimes I think you just have to give in and go see the doc.
This may probably be the best advice so far... I hadn't even really thought about seeing a physical therapist until some guy from NY saw me rubbing my arm on top of Intersection Rock and suggested it (thanks dude!).
I went climbing last night on some vertical/slightly overhanging routes in the Alabama Hills and the arm was totally fine. I even got a good pump going. Warmed it up pretty good though, and focused on fluid and not jerky movement. Didn't feel a hint of abnormal strain. I'll probably continue to do this, as I think slowly rebuilding the strength will help, unless it starts hurting again.
Push ups and reverse curls seem like they might help - we'll see. And seeing a professional...
Nick - drop me a line if you head down here! The Post is coming down to the Alabama Hills in a few weeks... should be fun!
The locals here in Lone Pine suggested I take some Pampryn and rub vagisil on the sore part. Compassionate climbers out here.
Edit: found a pic
The pain feels as if it's coming from where the Long Head and the Short Head meet...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 14, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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If I were a PT or a doc (and I'm definitely not qualified to diagnose), I'd say the problem comes from over-development of one muscle group over another. Therefore, those reverse curls that someone suggested sound like the ticket. But what do I know!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 14, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
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Any pain in the neck, posterior shoulder, between the shoulder blade and spine(rhomboids, mid trap)or triceps area(s)? This sounds interesting and you mentioned belaying someone up bothers it. I like interesting stuff! If you have contact info with Badyrka, he can give you my information, feel free to call if you want to talk. I don't think I get email from ST even though it say's I do. What kinda pain? Sharp/stabbing, dull/achey, when it flares up how long does it last and do you do anything to help it when it hurts. Wouldn't want to guess what it is without first talking with you and getting some history and symptoms on it. Does resisted supination/pronation bother it? Hope you can find some help with it.
Peace
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Mar 16, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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Why don't you weep openly.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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For what it's worth, I figured I'd follow up on this original thread since someone out there might be looking for info about it if they're experiencing the same problem.
I saw a physical therapist the other day who basically told me that the triceps in my left arm are underdeveloped (ha!), which is causing the bicep muscles and tendon to overwork and strain.
So push-ups, wall push-ups and some tricep strengthening should help resolve the problem.
Oh, Myles and Donny, if you're reading this, rubbing Vagisil on my arm didn't help.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Oh Failing... Kinda Gross!
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