Bump for a fascinating pioneer...
I had a interesting conversation with a couple of Swiss gals while climbing at the City of Rocks about Freda and they mentioned their countryman Matthias Zurbriggen as another example of a great and accomplished climber who experienced a lot of problems as a gay man which contributed to the unfortunate trajectory of his later life. Mattias soloed the ridge bearing his name on Mount Cook just missing the first ascent by a few months. http://www.wikiwand.com/en/Matthias_Zurbriggen