Cool footage I shot of the 5.13+ crack at PGSF

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martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Feb 25, 2012 - 09:04am PT
Dang that looks fun. In the 80's and early 90's gyms hadn't figured out how to build anything other that hand cracks and maybe some inch and a quarter. Looks like they put together a nice test piece to train on here.
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Feb 25, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
That guy should send while PGSF is packed. Prana pants would drop faster than you could say, 'the step ladder of bolts totally downgrades this to a soft 5.13.'
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
Here's another clip I shot (same day) of Eliot trying the crack:



A local who did an early ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish (5.14) said this crack actually felt harder.
If so, that would make this among the hardest cracks in the world, in the company of Meltdown (5.14c), and Magic Line (5.14b).

As it is still awaiting a second ascent almost 4 years after it was "established", it might be a while before a consensus is reached...
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 27, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
A local who did an early ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish (5.14)

Who might that be?

Cool video.

It has always looked like C1 nutting to me.
YoungGun

climber
North
Feb 27, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
A local who did an early ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish (5.14) said this crack actually felt harder.

As far as I know there have only been two locals to send the route: Sonnie Trotter (FA) and Will Stanhope.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 27, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
I got about 2/3 up the first section a few times, until the first really rattly finger stretch after the bomber fingerlocks. The price for that is tingling index fingers for the rest of the day.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Feb 27, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
Are those BOLTS next to the crack?

classic
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
As far as I know there have only been two locals to send the route: Sonnie Trotter (FA) and Will Stanhope.

Sorry for the confusion. By "local" I meant San Francisco native, ie, local to PGSF.
climbingbuzz

Trad climber
SF, CA
Feb 27, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
I thought Jim Herson was the first to send it.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Feb 27, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
Perhaps this "local":

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45263

Or:

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/honnold-repeats-cobra-crack-514-trad-squamish/

Cobra Ascents:

Trotter
Favresse
Pringle
Segal
Stanhope
Hirayama
Honnold
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Feb 27, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
So most likely Pringle, by process of elimination.

KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 27, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
Just top roping the thing would be a proud testament to solid technique and stamina let alone pain tolerance. Very few people can crack climb even 5.12 anymore, inside or out. When you're crack climbing at that level, the world of splitters will be wide open for you. Good job EC. Keep getting it.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 27, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
a year ago, a kid working the counter told me, "Only one guy has done the finger crack. This old guy. He comes in and does it pretty easily." I figured that was Herson. I'd like to be that old.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 27, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
i'm old, and I acquired an oversized pair of mocasym slip-ons, guess I'll have to give a go, for reals, for laughs!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Feb 27, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
Go get em
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Feb 27, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
That kid was probably referring to "Old Man Carlsen", I hear that dude is pretty old.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 27, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
wish my gym had lead climbs

what a sweet place to train
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 20, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
Hoh man! Nice effort! I gotta try that thing for reals!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
Second ascent glory could be yours, immortalized on YouTube. I'll film from the rafters and it'll be lights, cameras, action!

The only guy who has climbed it (and who can bust out laps on command) is just a few years younger than you if I'm knott mistaken.

Time to get busy training!
Messages 21 - 40 of total 45 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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