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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Pro to 3.5"
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Gersh
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Jan 29, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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Mr TNT has some awesome stuff in his N Az. guidebooks
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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The ross/Elms guide to NH from '78
"granite, amen"
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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there is a route at Skaha called "A Real Piece of Sh#t"
description: an awful crack climb disowned by the first ascentionists
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Siwash Rock: "A sign has been placed on the southwest face threatening climbers with prosecution. The sign is cemented on and makes a good foothold."
That was from the original Climber's Guide to the Coast Ranges, from 1965, and so written by Dick et al. We thought it worth repeating.
For non-Vancouverites, Siwash Rock is a remnant volcanic dyke/plug, about 15 m high, just off the Stanley Park seawall in downtown Vancouver. It may have been the site of the first climbers' access-related arrest in North America, in 1969.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 29, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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"these boulders are big! They make their own weather"
The Jenny lake bouldering sheet.
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dmons
climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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"a very hard start followed by a very hard middle section capped with a very hard finish make this a very hard climb"
white line, 12.a
bellfonte quarry
the most amusing guitebook ive ever come across
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apogee
climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Todd Swain's Red Rocks guide describes the chossy 5.4 direct finish of the Rainbow Wall as "..good training for the Eiger!"
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dmons
climber
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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sounds about right,
most of that eiger could use a copious slather of sika
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 29, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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from the last edition of chuck wilts's guide to tahquitz-suicide:
"john long's 1973 ascent of paisano overhang will probably never be repeated."
from the east side guides by marty lewis, peter croft and john moynier:
"marty has not climbed el capitan, mt. everest, or any 5.13s."
and from dick ingraham's guide to the organ mountains of new mexico, generally made available, in lieu of publishment, at the NMSU library:
"the origin of the name ORP is lost in antiquity."
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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"The granite, like even the best of women, cannot take more than an occasional pounding."
Desperate Grace: a book of climbs. 1975.
Guidebook for Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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From a Welsh guidebook:
"Climb up to the first hold."
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Jan 29, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Croft Climbing Mt Whitney
"it was at this point just a few years ago that I received a sound bitch-slapping from an angry grouse"
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Thomas
Trad climber
The Tilted World
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Jan 29, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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"Always exciting, but never outrageous."
Describing an exposed three pitch route called Ecstasy (5.7) at Seneca Rocks, WV. The climb is a perfect introduction to the place.
Also, Rob Robinson's guide to the Tennessee Wall has page after page of priceless route descriptions. Always entertaining!
Cheers!
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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Jan 29, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
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Another one from the Cochise Stronghold section in Bob Kerry's "Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona"
There are those who claim that on a really windy day they've seen a plume of granite coming off Rockfellow Dome.
(personally verified...)
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ec
climber
ca
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Jan 29, 2012 - 06:12pm PT
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“Of course, there is always a danger that a newly published guide like this will attract hordes of outsiders who will bolt their way up existing routes, trash campgrounds, and generally be a pain in the ass. However, this guide is being offered with the faith that fellow climbers will use good judgement, raise their skills instead of their hammers and will respect Mother Earth.”
Roland Burkert
May, 1983
Stonemashers’ Rockclimbing Guide to the Kern River Canyon and Environs
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Another one from Sherman's old Hueco guide...
As you approach Heuco Tanks from the south, you first glimpse of the rock will be disappointing, unless you are from Stoney Point.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 29, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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i like the yosemite line,
i think it's sachar cracker,
ballet turns to boxing turns to ripping out gorilla's unborn children,
or something to that effect.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 29, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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from the ORG guide some years back , one of my routes .. " a lame route with a even lammer name" the irony is that I niether reported the route and did not name it as it was published. Thanks guys!
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Jan 29, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
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In Croft's Sierra book he relates a story about his partner for Bear Creek Spire being so wasted on a one day push that he was hallucinating seeing suitcases in the woods on the hike out. The punch line at the end:
"when he mentioned the abandoned Winnebago a few minutes later, I just kept on walking..."
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