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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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And Craig, I don't have a problem with your adding a lower first bolt to Such A Savage to prevent anyone from getting hurt.
But, let's make sure it goes in on the lead.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Time for a photo... Found this one among the archives, on the stylish little facet called "Quarter Pebble" at Rubidoux. With its cute little one-handers.
And speaking of stylish, not only did we wear the short shorts, but (apparently) the Real Men could also wear pink! Nice pantaloons, Ricky. And, that's either Bartlett, or maybe Troy? Or?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2006 - 10:02am PT
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One more at the "Quarter Pebble", this time showing the rare views of Mt. San Jacinto (and sometimes Tahquitz) that could be had on the clear days...
And how many times can you remember when you couldn't even see your car at the base of Rubidoux because of the smog?
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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You guys have on some old Boreal boots! mid 80's vintage
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HighGravity
climber
Riverside, CA
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The only problem is all the paint on there now, to "cover" the graffiti.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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How about those shoes?
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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??
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Craig, regarding new bolts on old classics, you must agree that special things (like bold leads) are best untampered with and undamaged by new users.
As Royal and Yvon so elequently taught us in our youth, let's not lower the climb to the lowest "common denominator." If we buy into the mentality of making everything safe anmd easy for everyone, we'll see paved roads in every wilderness and bolt lines up every spiritual trad route.
Get back to your roots man, get a little scared and it might be good for ya.
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Murf
climber
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Dr. F,
One day I might actually get the sack to see what that insane FA guy was up to, maybe find out how common I am or am not. If I absolutely had to climb The Edge/TF, I can TR it safely *at any time*.
For what its worth, I enjoyed the deep breath I took about halfway up to the first bolt of Such a Savage. If it was left just as you and Hashbro did it orginally, I think that would be a good thing as well.
Cheers,
Murf
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Fellers,
As far as what may or may not have happened in the past, I believe that a psychic "statute of limitations" exists (consult. RV?). We must let go and chalk it all up to good fun, and we're still friends.
Besides, where would all the good slander have come from if this sh#t hadn't happened?
Dr. F, it's obvious that you are simply trying to be controversial, which is sometimes yer nature.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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who was it that dubbed the good doctor "rookie of the year" back in '76 or '77? Largo?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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The run-out up to the first bolt on Such a Savage in no longer mandatory....there is a Gaine's variation, that goes up left of Such a Savage, and you can traverse in to Such a Savage from this variation....and it is well protected.....I think this is the way many parties go now-a-days........AND Such a Savage is still an AWESOME route (probably the best on the So. Astrodome....my favorite , anyways....)....AND you can STILL go the run-out original way........complete with it's pine needles, tree sap, and slippery dangerous run-out...............We need to go back and add a bolt to Zorba, don't we ?.....Tobin wasn't the only one who did "psycho" run outs......THAT one freaked me out.......maybe Murf would enjoy this potentially ankle breaking climb too?......sure got Dr. F 's adrenelin flowing, and made my heart skip a beat or 3...............How did we survive our youth???......Awesome lead, by the way, Dr. F..........)
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Hey Dr. F, wasn't that Boogleman that went for it on Zorba?????
Hmm.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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D E E....it's wasn't Chuckles on the F A of Zorba....it was Dr. F. and myself....and the reason Dr. F. ran it out was'nt because he "couldn't stop and drill"..(Dr. F. has forgotten after all of these years......MY mind still remembers the whole situation, and JUST what went down.....I was there..)...it was because, at the crux, it was so difficult, that Dr. F. took most of the rack off, to lighten up.........he took off all the trad gear, and just went up with a hammer, bolt kit, and a few bolts........the now lighter in weight Dr. F immediately sends the 5.11 section no problem, climbs WAY up, finally gets to a stance to drill.......I'll be go to hell......he has the hammer, bolts,.....but danm......left the drill with the trad gear.......can't down climb the run-out and the 5.11 section......time to suck the balls up and mad-dog it to the top.........it was an insane run-out......done not because he was trying to be rad....it was done because he had no other choice.....(I suppose he could have down climbed and jumped off the 5.11 section and only broke both of his ankles......that was his other option)........in the end, he made it, and I followed, and I couldn't believe how hard and run out it was......................it blew my mind..............(Now I wonder if the hallucinigens he took before the climb had anything to do with him forgetting the drill????one never knows.............)....Better go hop on Zorba, and have the FULL Dr. F. experience before some conservative light-weight gym geek retros the thing into vanilla pudding........and don't even THINK about doing the climb WITHOUT the hallucinigens.....or you will not have the same experience as the first ascentionist...........it would be a total waste of time any other way.........(Ready to step up to the plate, Murf??)......Once again....awesome lead, Dr. F......one of the best I ever saw you do.................(And the colors must have been incredible too........)
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Careful DE, Craig might get upset then go home and kick his turtle. By the way I think I took the butt shot photo of you and RV on Swept Away. Steve tapes and I happened to be wondering around Echo and you guys asked me to take a photo for you. I think that was the first climbing photo I ever took. At the time we thought you guys were climbing gods, you guys played up on that regailing us with tales FAs and 5.11s. RV especialy.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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Let the slander begin!
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Like Largo always said, "Never let the truth get in the way of a good story"
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Murf
climber
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Todd - It's doubtful that any sort "medicine" will get me onto Zorba. I'm weak sauce, I know. Retro bolting it will make sure I don't get on Zorba, I'd be on something else, wouldn't I?
In any case, I'm out of my depth in these waters...
Continue on Stonemaster's...
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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Craig said, "Why can't we just put in a bolt every 8-12 feet."
Oh, dear. Don't let Henny hear you say that about The Edge, man. (I refer you way, way up-thread, and you should also take a look at The Edge elsewhere in this Forum.)
Speaking of slippery slopes... Yer on one, Dr. F., and it ain't slopin' upwards. (Devil's Advocate: Nah. People shouldn't have to face a potential 16- or 24-footer. My God! Why not put the bolts even closer, so that people can "enjoy" the route with a maximum of 8' of fall? Huh? Sure. Bolt up the Edge, every four feet. But you don't have to clip the bolts!)
Please don't feed the troll.
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