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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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You have too many PADs when there is one more than enough to cover the entire wall.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Maybe it's like the Princess and the Pea. Stack up a ton of mattresses and still, that damned pea is digging into your back. The corollary is we haul those pads out there to take a nice nap under the trees. Always has worked for me.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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On his 8a.nu scorecard, Alex considered his ascent a “community event” and thanked all the folks that carried up the 34 pads that made the climb possible.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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(NO idea who took this photo, but would love to give credit if alerted to the source)
Russ, I saw that picture attached to Wills Young's very cool blog, http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/. I would say that 35 pads is where the line should be drawn. 34 were used on Honnold's ascent of Too Big to Flail.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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I just hope the route/problem description includes the 30 pad beta.
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Gary
climber
That Long Black Cloud Is Coming Down
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:03pm PT
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I dunno, boys, but I'm considering this technique on my next lead:
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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he worked it on tr first.
pretty cool.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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hey there say, russ and all...
you know: i KNOW i don't know what i'm talking about, as to what
the outcome of all those pads would be, but:
i would THINK that if one hit all those pads, from a high fall, that one would BOUNCE and it'b be hard to figure in which direction? perhaps OVER?
all the spotters,to the ground??
i know, most likely i am way off base, i mean way off pads, ;)
but that was the thought that came to mind, seeing that, and
reflecting back on what kids do when they play with too many mattresses piled on a bed--well, if given the opportunity, that is... :O
*perhaps the pads are not a bouncy as they appear to be...
carry on folks... :)
ps:
not wanting to see any hurt, so glad he thought this was best for him...
in this case...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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...At what point do you have too many PADS bouldering?
When every last cactus, blade of grass and other vegetation surrounding the rock has been crushed into the dirt.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 20, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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I'm cool with not giving Honnold sh#t about this.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 20, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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“Too Big to Flail.”
Hhaha this guy is actually clever! I like it.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 20, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Know thats the pad I've been waiting for.
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Dr. X
Big Wall climber
X- Town
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
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When Bard did transporter room, after the bolt chop, it was really considered a solo, not a boulder problem.....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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If you’re sitting in a low slung car parked along Topanga Canyon Blvd at Stoney Point you can see the top of Boulder One, the lower half is obscured from view by terrain.
One afternoon I was sitting there in my car reviewing some “safety procedures” before a session. I watched with amazement as some guy climbed awkwardly up the descent route to the very top of the boulder and flung himself off. Then up goes another guy who throws a back flip off the top.
When I got out of the car I expected to see some guys lying there with broken bones. Actually they were stunt guys and were landing on a big air bag like that.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 20, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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some women bleed profusely.
they need multiple pads.
absortion, tell ya.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jan 20, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Pads are for pussies. What kind of pad did John Gill use for the FA of the Thimble? He used a steel guardrail.
Did Kauk & Bachar use a pad for Midnight Lightning? No just some dirt & a few rocks.
Pads are just a justification for using technology to take the sting out of a fall off the stone. That's exactly what ropes are for too. If you use technology to cushion a fall, how is that any different from using a rope?
Where do you draw the line? How about a pole vault pad? Or a circus net? Bouldering should be about testing yourself on the stone. BITD climbers would downclimb if they could not/would not top out a given problem. Nowadays, everybody just jumps off onto the sea of pads. Downclimbing is a lost art & bouldering pads cater to the noob crowd who are afraid to fall without padding. If you want to pad something, go pad your expense account.
*EDIT***
Yo! THE legend, John Gill has spoken!! See a few posts below. Gill didn't need no stinkin' pad!
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