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Stefan Jacobsen
Trad climber
Danmark
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Jan 17, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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Humble I bow myself in the dust and cheerful I throw my hat in the air.
Kruk and Kennedy kick ass!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 17, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
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Great send!
"By fair means" sounds sporting, whatever it is. Does this knott usually mean no bolts?
Did they climb some new rock, too?
Congrats, lads!
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Brian
climber
California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 04:50pm PT
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Cool. Can't wait for more news on this.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jan 17, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
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Can't wait to hear more on the "fair-means" ascent! Great job dudes!
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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Don't know what is meant by "fair means",
It means that they didn't use any supplemental bottled oxygen.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
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Fantastic job guys...Good on ya........
Stevo
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Gene
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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I know it's bitchen and such, but what did they do?
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Jan 17, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Presumably they free climbed Cerro Torre without rap bolting it (and without using any of the David Lama's bolts). Based on Kruk's blog, that's what they attempted to do last year, and nearly succeeded before the weather shifted and encrusted the top of the peak in ice. I guess all we know at this point is that they made the summit, but details will no doubt be forthcoming on Kruk's blog.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 17, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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From that blog...
I continued to lead the next day. At the ice towers Chris was getting frustrated being the pack mule on the jumars so he took over the leading. David Lama was on the Torre aid climbing up the bolts so we were being buzzed all day long by a helicopter film crew. Truly frustrating. It grew dark and we ended up climbing through the night on the headwall, very exciting. We followed the wrong feature out left and eventually dead-ended after Geisler led an 8-hour pitch of techno aid, taking one whipper when the flake he was hooking on ripped. Geisler did a lot of climbing when you were the most rad if you did the hard aid stuff. He did early repeats of El Cap terrors and established and repeated the most serious of the Squamish bigwalls.
Seems aid was involved during last year's attempt, hence the desire to get details on what 'fair means' means. Whatever they did is probably beyond my imagination.
Cheers,
g
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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If yopu look at what is posted on the alpinist site it says nothing about free. seems to indicate that it was without useing the compressor bolts?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
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Congratulations to Jason and Hayden! And to think that I knew Jason when he was a gym rat...
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michaeld
Sport climber
Near Tahoe, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
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I'm gonna go up there with 250 bolts for my video crew and get the next ascent.
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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Nice
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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sick!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 17, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Badazzzzzzzz!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 18, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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Cool. Gold never tarnishes; new kids just melt old icons and recast to their own eyes.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 18, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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this thread has much wrong information/silly assumptions it's unbelievable. the thread title is wrong and the thread should be deleted and then reposted with a correct thread title.
this has nothing to do with david lama.
great achievement nevertheless.
hayden is by far the most psyched climber i know. kind of like adam ondra for bigger stones.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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this thread has much wrong information/silly assumptions
What'cha think this is, the New York Times?
Sounds like a fantastic climb, done in great style. Hats off to Kruk and Kennedy.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Jan 18, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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I think the phrase "free the Compressor Route" will take on additional meaning as this story unfolds. Don't think of free as in "free climbing", but think of something bigger, bolder, and better. Envision the Decompressor Route.
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