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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 01:54am PT
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This route is over here:
And now I remembered what it is called!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 26, 2006 - 01:59am PT
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"Like I Can't remember just this moment what this is..."
It's called undercling the rock ....:-)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 26, 2006 - 01:59am PT
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The one from 10:11pm is about halfway up Lucky Streaks. I underclung that way the first time, but now I like to climb down there and traverse low.
Cool glam shot with the lycra!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 02:04am PT
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Ok Clint, Yes, Lucky Streak 'em up.
Yes, the Lay-Dees, very well coordinated eh?
For extra points, what did we top out on when we took that picy poo of those two Lass?
And it wasn't one of the trade routes...
(and now I have to lookit' up)
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Mar 26, 2006 - 09:35am PT
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tar thanks for the pics of incredible hulk. pv runout should be ok i climb kind of strong
what is that crack climb on lembert dome nw face. thats a fun climb. also didn't do lunar leap but looked sweet. reminds of climb in the gunks called crash and burn jump across pinnacle to great face climbing
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 11:41am PT
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Hardman- yes, that granite on the Hulk, no secrit, is really suave.
I think you refer to the nw face direct on lembert?
has a couple moves of moderate 10 and its right of big boys don't cry.
'once did a theme climb on that with claude fiddler and others.
It was "italian day"; we had all kinds of props, like I was enzo jr jr, we brought a bunch of lambrusco. actually ran out of lambrusco and had to send one of our party back to the store to get more so we could top out properly annebriated...
There were in fact some "gunkies" on the route that day. they weren't so well versed in the art, or in our case spoilage, of the proper jam technique. so we were the smarty pants locals, making a mockery of the whole thing, while they were earnestly struggling for the summit, just above us.
Owing to the drawn out process of retrieving more lambrusco and rolling doobies, I sensed that we were after all, appreciated for not passing them during there snails pace charge for the summit...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 26, 2006 - 11:46am PT
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Must have been Boa.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 11:48am PT
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Jay,
You mean Boa of Pywiak?
Or is that some descriptor of a bevy of lambrusco infused mocking bufoons on lembert...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 26, 2006 - 11:56am PT
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I meant Boa for the lycra shot. The idea of Boa on that Lembert ascent gives it more of a 'Pirscilla (sp)' feel than I had imagined from your description.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
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Well the Lycra shot was on top of Drug Dome, after an ascent of (looking in my guide book) "Sunshine". I'll just call it out 'cuz there's little to go by. No Priscilla Boa's on hand that day...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
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Name that route #101!
Hint: the name is a trick.
1st ascent, with Alan Roberts "The Voice of the Crags" in '82.
So naturally, this means it's "my route", yes, mine.mine.mine.
...but I can't stop you from: renaming, retro bolting, or just climbing it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 26, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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uno tryst clydesdale?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 02:46pm PT
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not.
hmmm, the clue is in the so called "name".
But you were perhaps referring to the mode of debasing the route, not naming it?
as in 3 phuquing horses?
now I'm cornfused.
Gallop on JayBra...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 26, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
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Finally seeing some half decent rock in this thread. You'd think all people wanna climb on is that ugly gray shite.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 03:31pm PT
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more red sandy stuff to come...
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Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
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Mar 26, 2006 - 03:43pm PT
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For the one with the descent shot I'm guessing West Face North Early Winters spire. (rappel shot taken from under the cave boulder) No Name crack is the Alan Roberts one.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 07:18pm PT
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Yes, Kevin Rose:
"no name crack" above, the alan roberts one.
left side of supercrack buttress.
over near bad rad duality crack, which is on my list.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 07:32pm PT
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route #102
red sandy stuff
2 images
same route, direct finish
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 26, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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I was trying to say one trick pony in a way so that someone else coulod also. That and, 'Tricks are...' were the only ones I could think of that had the word trick in the name. Also I think that's one of the one's with two first ascents due to a lazy second fa party not scanning for higher anchors, like on The Big Guy.
Otto's route.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2006 - 08:19pm PT
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no, not otto's route.
think cleaner, more structured...
so my name was a trick name 'cuz it had no name...
but, are you saying "my route", the "no name" route has a lower set of anchors? i put in my anchors from a stem, ya know. was real proud of it.
but clearly not proud enough to report it!
bwahahahha.
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