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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Ron, The answer is yes. I do most of my bolting on choss these days. What was the story with the flattened bolt hangers next to fingerlock about 18years ago. Kenny
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
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Yeah Ron
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Well, that's not good
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Mr Anderson, Other than the quick jabs and the not so quick snappy answers, I not sure you your hearing or getting a word of what been written here? I keep reading the same old dissertation over and over. I think you have reached a point where the learning curve is flat and you showing that by your incessant, repetitive ranting.
Despite what you think, the world didn't stop climbing and climbing didn't spot evolving when you moved on from your glory days.
This is the Golden Age of climbing. Dano is dead, Jay Smith is in Utah, and Paul Crawford doesn't give a sh#t.
I’ve been at it a long time and I have big respect for the old school and the rock, but man, hang it up!
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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Hey,Ron Wasn't implying that you did just all this loaf talk reminded me of that don't know why. Just remember thinking it looked like sh#t and if that was somebodys retaliation for rap bolting well...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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i was thinking about hand excavating
(inspired by mucci's heroic dig to free lars)
the entire south side of the loaf,
adding a pitch or two down.
i can make good erosion,
im wind and rain and hell on fire, i.
once i scrape down the dead detritus
there'll be sweet new lines for all.
to enjoy and it'll be like
going down in time or back or maybe forth,
or rather just every direction at once,
and i'll be nowhere except in the
basement of my dream, which
is in essence my grave.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 11, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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I can't believe in the 2000s anyone would hike up there to clip bolts. let alone place them. Hey Norwegian tell Paul Kenny says hey and he should get on here and talk some sh#t his names been thrown around enough.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 12, 2012 - 03:34am PT
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I used to climb quite a bit at Sugarloaf. Back in 1990 or so, a few of us put down (on rap) a line a little ways to the R of Bolee Gold. Not just to the R, farther over. Just to the R is a somewhat chossy face that went at about 12a, John Scott did the FA and I annoyed him a bit by breaking off an important hold while following. Farther over is the line I'm talking about. This is (was) a long line that did some face/knobs into a thin seam/groove sort of crack, and then finished up on face to a 2 bolt anchor. A long pitch, maybe 45 meters. The first 30m or so are pretty interesting and sustained, then the last part eases off. The first or maybe second bolt seemed poorly placed, and getting around it was cruxy, because a big knob broke off on an early ascent. I think we originally rated it 11d.
So, this being an early rap installed route at the Loaf, I'm wondering if it's still there? The bolts were rawl 5 piece, easy to remove. We never settled on a name, so if it's still there, what are people calling it?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 12, 2012 - 08:49am PT
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mcreel i believe that
route is called birdman.
aiden's all over that shite.
he has raved about the quality of
your route
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 12, 2012 - 09:30am PT
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Thanks Norwegian. If it's still there, then I'm glad people are enjoying it. The quality of the rock was not the best for Sugarloaf, but if it's getting climbed I imagine that it's pretty clean now.
I did and still do feel a little guilty for rap bolting at Sugarloaf.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
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Birdman
For my money it is the best face route at Sugarloaf. Sustained, airy, technical, sporty and long (~140 feet) with ~5 cruxes 11a or harder. Rock quality at this point is excellent. You have to have your head on straight the day you lead it. 25 foot lead fall potential.
The other that comes up left of Bolee Gold and ends at same anchor is dubbed "Harder than it used to be" after a hold broke. I lead it years ago with Joel Moore and called it 12a. Been on it since and can't touch it. Probably harder
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jan 13, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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i did some of my best/favorite crack climbs on the loaf back in the day. i like sport and bouldering more than trad now for the most part so youd think i would love the new bolted routes but not entirely. i feel both sides of this story. i think the loaf is mainly a crack area and a few new mixed (bolt/gear) routes, if done well, are cool but if it does start to get bolted routes all over in the future then wtf. i feel the cracks have character and should be cherished and just another granite slab/face is usually pretty generic unless it follows some sort of line of features.
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 13, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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So Birdman is a rap route with the potential for a 25 foot fall?
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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100+ feet of rope out and 5 feet past your last bolt (typical granite bolted) and your belayer long out of sight. You can bet you'll go that far.
Ultraclassic: Who gives a rats how it went up. Would the climb be any different had the bolts been placed on lead?
Actually it would. Those 25 foot falls would be on old 1/4 inch mank until some "heinous rap bolting Nancy-boy" like me went up and spent time and money replacing it all with my gleaming power drill and shiny 3/8th bolts :)
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kennyt
climber
California
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Jan 13, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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Hey. settle down there sport I'm not bagging on rap bolting It just seems like you shouldn't "have to have your head on straight" to climb an 11+ line. That was bolted on rappel.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
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I hear ya. I'm actually pretty settled down. Just winding up our less open minded brethran :)
I think the bolting is safe and in character with typical granite traditional routes as it should be, but 110 feet of rope out and no communication with your belay, it's kind of inevitable that your going for a ride if you come off
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 13, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
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Birdman is hands down the best face climb in the Hwy 50 corridor. Boot Hill perhaps coming in at a close second. I didn't think it was runnout at all. Never got that "heady" feeling ever. In fact, I remember it to be pretty tightly bolted, not weenie roast bolted but well protected none the less.
Ya'll should stop baggin on Aidans routes. You should be happy someone like him is the one putting up routes in the area instead of one of those local Tahoe yahoos that feel free to add bolts and anchors to anything they feel like with bolts so tightly spaced you're practically on toprope the whole time.
Aidans routes are always thoroughly thought out and well executed. Never over protected or with any sort of "ethical" concerns. Now whether you think the route is total crap or not is a matter of opinion. A few of them have reached classic status for sure.
On the other hand I've put a couple routes in at the Loaf, all of them ground up, onsight, hand drilling by stance. I'm sure they'll never be considered "classic" or even good for that matter, and I'm sure they will rarely see a repeat if at all. So, other than it being cool for me, I don't know which is actually the better way to put up routes. It's all relative.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 14, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Way better than bolee gold.
Bolee Gold is 50ft of good climbing followed by 200+ ft of 4th class bullsh#t. I suspect that route was way better for the F.A. than any subsequent accent. More so than usual anyway.
There are many other good sport routes in the area, but Birdman is a step above the rest in both quality and uniqueness.
Telesis is a good contender, but no sport route in any sense. Even after it's retro-bolting.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 14, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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thats funny sal,
you call 10a r and 5.8 r
4th class bullsh#t.
you must really be climbing at an inspired level.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jan 14, 2012 - 03:00am PT
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10ft of .10a followed by many moves of low 5th, there is no "R" involved. Next pitch has a move or two of 5.5 followed by more low 5th class. I guess you could call it "R".
Funny how everything gets upgraded over the years.
Yeah, pretty much 4th class by original standards.
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