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tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
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Dec 25, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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nICE tradchick.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Dec 26, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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Anybody not just TR ice on the Taco? :)
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 26, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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Exceptional December access conditions!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey Kalimon, how is the avalanche danger in Eureka after the last snows?
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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Dec 26, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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A couple weeks ago, the local free paper (The Telegraph) had a cool/scary photo of an avalanche sweeping down over Stairway to Heaven. It looked big and billowy.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 26, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Been wicked busy working, hunting and we have had a very late start to our ice season with many washouts and too much rain to even get out and rock climb. Have not climbed anything in at least six weeks and that was 5 easy rock. Stuffed my face for 2 days and then led all 600ft of the Black Dike directly off the couch. Thin brittle with lots of blowing snow and just barely enough marginal gear for me. lots of places you simply had to climb hard technical moves 20ft over a 10cm screw or a cam in an iced up crack behind a loose block. Pretty awsome but not sure if this will jumpstart my season or give me PTSD ;)
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
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Kudos ya couch spud you.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Stewart Johnson you are posting up some fine pics.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Bump for those of us living in precipitation-deprived climes. Thanks to everyone posting on this thread.
john
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 27, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
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Isa @ the 2nd belay.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 27, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
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Sunset on the hike out.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Dec 27, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 27, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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Hola Philo!
The Avalanche danger is moderate on the exposures involved with Stairway. Surprisingly there was quite a bit of wind deposition following last weeks storm. This resulted in some soft windslabs that were approximately 6-12" deep on the approach and walk-off descent. Overall the snowpack is thin but there are some basins above the climb that undoubtedly hold more snow than down lower. These conditions were all considered prior to deciding to go for it.
It is funny you should ask this question because as I was putting my crampons on at the base for my ropeless solo, a slide cut loose 200 meters to my (climber's) right and suddenly the whole endeavor was in serious question! Rationalizing that the climb itself was not quite an avalanche path like the one that had just cut loose due to the thermal conditions (it was pretty warm), I proceeded to ascend the route without further incident. There was a fair amount of melt water coming down the right side, so the climbing stayed left and center for the most part on colder brittle ice in the shaded areas and nice wet sticky plastic on the sunnier exposures. Don't be surprised by the steepness of the two 30-40' chandeliered cruxes, WI4+.
Go do it!
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 27, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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Oh Man Uber crap!
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