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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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Not a great example, as I just arrived solo, the black rope is the haul line. Pig and ledge yet to arrive. Dock the pig off to one side, and ledge to the other just below the pig. I'll upload another pic or two if I can find em on this machine.
Dock the pigs to a bolt, backed up to the main anchor. The ledge can hang off anything, but stay tied into the master point yourself, at all times.
And although yer gonna die, don't skimp on the anchor and set the date.
Burly Bob
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:32am PT
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Don't overlook a few bomber cams equalized is an awesome anchor, and even on a large ledge, it can be clustered in a big hurry. Sorry, none of the good stuff on this computer, maybe over x-mas.
Burly Bob
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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I think abends photo is the best!
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Maybe not as spectacular as abend's, but the potential is there...
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Dec 18, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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I've got to power points. One for hauling and one for cleaning.
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A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
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Dec 19, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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bump for more anchor pics...
scott
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Dec 19, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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yosguns
climber
Paris, France
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
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Edit: It made sense at the time.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 15, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Bump for hump day. Excellent thread!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 15, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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Keep it simple.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 15, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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Are you starting to see a pattern here?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 17, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Just curious, Hudon, but what is the thin blue cordalette being used for? I would assume it is the equalized hauling anchor, but it seems pretty low compared to the anchor?
Wonderful photo documentation, btw! Very helpful.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 17, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Those are 5 mil slings I have tied onto the top loops of my Yates Gear Bra. I clip them to the anchors before I take the gear sling off so that I can never drop it.
Clipping them to individual bolts allows the gear sling to hang nice and flat against the wall, making it easy to grab gear from it or to load it up with more gear.
Here is a photo of that on the Shield
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Aug 17, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Learn that butterfly knot. It's adjustable. I haven't used it yet but will do so next time. The other thing to learn from Mark Hudon is his pulley system. 2:1 or 3:1, whatever it is. For most people, hauling is the hardest part of a wall. It's so exhausting! Divide the weight by 2 and it would be easy.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Aug 18, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Awesome thread, keep em coming!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Aug 18, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 18, 2012 - 10:34am PT
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love your anchor system Mark Hudon
great pic Werner!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 18, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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Part of my anchor system is my "Anchor Kit" of three large locking biners.
I use them more because they are large rather than locker. With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 18, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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With large biners you can clip a lot of stuff to them and not pin anything else in. The ones I use have sort of a flat bottom so you can slide things towards the gate pretty easily, making it even easier to not pin anything.
Brilliant! ...just updated my gear list.
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