Remembering Rob Slater

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Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Dec 13, 2011 - 03:27pm PT

I met Rob a few times. The first time was at the base of the Captain back in 1983. My first and I were wall noobs and off to do Zodiac, which was still considered kind of a hard trade route back then. He had that trademark grin and was super friendly and super supportive, something you didn't always get from that upper echelon of climbers. A really good guy.

Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber

City of Salt

Dec 13, 2011 - 05:09pm PT

My buddy Steve and I were climbing on the Apron sometime in the fall, around 1984 or so. It was late in the day and we were walking down when we heard, "help, help." We hustled back to the base of the apron to find some guy who had led a long pitch with only one rope and couldn't get down. Apparently, his partner had left to find help. We tied one of our ropes on his and he rapped down. I walked up to the guy - "hey, you really ought to make sure that...Oh Hi Rob."

Rob didn't even mention his predicament, or why he was slab climbing on the Apron for that matter. In his usual excited, animated way all he could say was "Lovetron, You guys have just got to see Lovetron!" We followed him to his car, listening to him chatter the whole way about all the plans he had and what he was going to climb next. He opened the trunk of his car and pulled out a ve-24 tent pole with some cords arranged and a hook on the end. He could somehow manipulate a hook or even a cam from 15 feet away. He just stood there grinning that amazing grin that he had. I still laugh about that.

In some ways I felt that Rob was treated as an outsider in the valley. I don't think, at least initially, he was accepted into the clique. And his personality was pretty overwhelming. I always liked him a lot and I can still picture that grin. I wasn't all that surprised when he died though. He lived on the edge and wasn't afraid to go for it.

Thanks for sharing the book. I'll be sure to read it.

Ultra Fool

Mountain climber

Cheyenne, Wy

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 06:31pm PT

Thanks for that story-the Lovetron is certainly in the book!

fosburg

climber

Dec 14, 2011 - 08:24pm PT

I climbed with Rob a few times. The first was when he was in the valley with some time to kill and get tuned up before the first ascent of what would be Wyoming Sheep Ranch. Somehow, though we'd never met, he hit me up to go do Zenith on Half Dome. I'd done the Nose and I think the Prow at that point so I thought it'd be a good opportunity to learn about nailing from a real Heavy even though he clearly just needed a sub-man. I borrowed a hammock and signed on.
Rob didn't know the slabs so we had to hike up the back side. I carried a haulbag that honestly probably weighed about 80 or 90 lbs. We bivied at the base and Rob basically never shut up talking about right-wing politics, stupid Boulder Trustafarians, The Sea way light etc. I remember he had a Reagan/Bush bumper sticker on his ledge. He was a very likable guy.
The next day I was very fatigued and intimidated and we blasted. Rob lead some pitches and then I lead an A3 pitch that was absolutely beyond anything I'd ever experienced. The way I rigged the rope for him to jug caused it to abrade over an edge and cheesed the sheath. He was WAY pissed! "God dammit, that's what slings are for! God dammit, blah, blah, etc.". He was right but I was a total gumby. So he casts out on the next lead, an A5 double pendulum. Swinging back and forth absolutely unfazed, "Here, hold onto my Charlie Porter hat." More mad swinging and he latches a hook on and starts motoring up. "There's NO WAY this pitch is A5, etc.!".
Rob was ready to haul and somehow in the general diphtheria I dropped our daypack that contained his camera. I think we both watched it explode in Bushido Gully. "God dammit, you owe me a new camera!, we're bailing because you're so light duty! etc."
We bailed down the slabs just hoping for the best route finding-wise. Rob wound up having to cut his haulbag loose at the very bottom downclimbing some 5th class. John Barbella and Bob the Aid Man were there where it landed (carrying loads for Arctic Sea) and they thank God smoked me out.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Dec 15, 2011 - 01:33am PT

Hey Fos-

he hit me up to go do Space on Half Dome

Did you mean Queen of spades? another Cole route? Space is near Genisis on EC. Whatever route, sounded like a good intro!

Slater sounded like a great partner.

Somebody throw up some pics! Bound to be some good ones.

D.Eubanks

climber

Dec 15, 2011 - 02:19am PT

That was a good one fosburg...good story.

An A5, double pendulum pitch kinda sounds like Zenith.

fosburg

climber

Dec 15, 2011 - 02:24am PT

Oops, yea, Zenith.

D.Eubanks

climber

Dec 15, 2011 - 09:13am PT

Anyone have any pics to post of Rob....Ultra fool ?

wbw

Trad climber

'cross the great divide

Dec 15, 2011 - 12:50pm PT

I used to cross paths with Rob. I never got to know him well, but he was always friendly to me, and had that grin that made him look like he was guilty of something.

I remember attending his memorial in Eldo. I remember seeing his childhood climbing partner talk about their ascent of Slipstream the previous winter, and then raise his voice with a "hell yeah" kinda tone to celebrate the fact that Rob had summitted K2 before being blown off the mountain. This seemed to me to be a tip of the hat to the attitude of "summit or grave. . either way I win."

I also remember thinking that I was tired of going to memorials in Eldo for fallen climbers. This was after Mugs was killed and after Derek died. We'd had Derek's memorial in Eldo and it just seemed like we were losing too many special characters to climbing. Selfishly, I wanted to hold positive memories and thoughts of Eldo; not memories of memorial services.

Ultra Fool

Mountain climber

Cheyenne, Wy

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 05:21pm PT

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Dec 16, 2011 - 05:37pm PT

D.Eubanks ur gonna have to tell me more about Rob slater at our next slab party!

fosburg

climber

Dec 16, 2011 - 08:17pm PT

Nice photo, that's the Charlie Porter hat!

midwest john

Boulder climber

Wilmette, Illinois

Dec 20, 2011 - 01:45pm PT

I climbed with Rob quite a bit at Devils Lake and our local hard buildering spots in and around Chicago. He was a climbers climber to be sure, the harder the better. As someone mentioned, you could see the passion in his eyes. Very few people are that psyched. Great guy.

EdBannister

Mountain climber

13,000 feet

Dec 20, 2011 - 02:24pm PT

I remember Rob's playfulness,
and his ability to kick back and laugh
just as much as his enthusiasim and drive...

his preoccupation with CLH...

his smiles,
and on a cold and casual day with Randy and Rob out in the wonderland as he laid back on warm stone...
and snugged a little better into his parka....
he introspectively commented:

" I'm not feeling very motivated today."

he made a lot of us smile.

cts

Social climber

sw PA

Dec 20, 2011 - 02:36pm PT

It so easy for me to remmeber Rob. I still have a hold (that I see almost everyday) from the Formula on the West Ridge of Eldo, that broke off on him there. We had just decided to do Formula after Pony Express. when a huge hold on Formula broke off at the crux. Rob just had that confident, easy going smile, and after we both tried it a couple of times we just gave up, not even feeling bad (that was new for me). But we both had done other clims and were at the end of the day) But I'll never forget his smile, his easy going, casual, never let anything get you down attitude. He was such a joy to rope up with and getting up a route was always second to enjoying the day (this is NOT to say he was not motivated, he was incredible). That smile could put your whole soul at ease. I could not believe it when I heard he had passed. Lost so many friends on bigger mountains, Robbie was one who could never be replaced.