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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Watusi leads Coonyard in 1975 - age 15?
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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"confusion by me good book= the folly ? someone help me "
Well (if I have it straight), there is Rixon's pinacle. If you traverse along the base to the right you get to the folly.
The right side of the folly is also known as the good book.
But whatever it is called, it is an excellant route. The first pitch is still a little ugly from the rock fall. The second pitch is better. (I can't remember if there is one more short pitch but) then you move back left into the beatiful lieback corner (once in this corner, you are fairly well protected from above so this is not a bad place to set up a toprope and do laps). The pitches above are pretty interesting too.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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A friend of mine was belaying on top of the Folly during one of the big earthquakes back in 1981. He said the whole pinnacle moved back and forth (anchor was on the wall above it) and it was even more interesting for the parties on the route who watched nuts fall out and cams flex back and forth.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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I see old people.
all back in the day and sh#t huh?
;)
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Yeah, I like the wayback machine aspects of this site. Are you the same Mungie as on b.com?
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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1981, yup, I believe that was the year. Was on the apron (Hoppies Favorite?) when that hit. We all were at a belay, HUGE stuff was falling all around us, as we watched the valley fall apart. All we could do is look up at our demise that was sure going to come crashing down on us. Amazingly we were not hit by a single pebble as we watched trees below to the left and right shatter like match sticks from the onslaught of bombs from above......... and the valley filled with dust. Our decent thru the blast zone was humbling, so much devistation. That night was a very nervous time, lots of after shocks. Next morning we bailed and I have never been back to the ditch since.
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WBraun
climber
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"I have never been back to the ditch since."
Lightweight
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PMS
climber
Woodland Park, CO
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That's, "Mr. Lightweight"
Thank you.............
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Heh, I was also on the Apron for that one, leading a pitch on The Mouth. I was particularly impressed by the freight car that came off Grizzly Peak and the screams for help from the Happy Isles trail center. It seemed the corner I was in also screamed. We finished the climb before descending.
A few days later we were descending from Middle Cathedral after doing the East Butt. In the gloom of early evening, I found the descent gully covered in grit with a rockfall scar seemingly on every square foot, and all the bark stripped from the small trees. It was unsettling enough that we rapped rather than scrambled. Another party descending at the same time had a meltdown over the issue, scritching around in the rolling grit. One of the guys abandoned his partner to come plead, "Can I rap on your ropes? Can I go first?" while screaming at his buddy, "You're high Harold, you're way high!" Good times to be sure.
The forecast at the C4 ranger booth was particularly sweet: Thunderstorms, Earthquakes, Possible Volcanic Ash.
Come to think of it, maybe it was 1980 since St Helens was going off?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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yep, it was '80. i got a photo of that post on the ranger board somewhere....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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that mungie jack ass on b.com is a lightweight for sure!
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Wonder
climber
WA
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the earthquake. i had left the valley for sf. i was at powell & market and the windows were breaking & falling duh, the facades were falling. valley training told me to run for the open spaces. ran uphill to union square & got 1/2 way there and it stoped.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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yeah, the spring of '80
was a bumper year for quakes.
Lepton, Wee John and Rick Derrick sat one out on El cap Spire.
There is a story I have told online but should be retold by Leroy about some buffoons making a point of doing an early am (after the mtn rm closed ) ascent of little john so they could be on the cap for the predicted 7.0, accompanied by a Jardine investment and Dante's care package.
A quickie; Three days in a row there were earthquakes, big ones, you could feel it first then hear big stones come down fast, then the inevitable mass-wasting over by sentinel sent up a dirt cloud that looked like forest fire smoke. Always about 7.am.
The third day of this I was making coffee when it hit (this was the biggest one, and I swear you could feel the dirt under your feet move in a clockwise(?) manner) I looked at my buddy doug and we laughed and ran over to scope the sentinnel rockfall, along with most of camp 4. It was a great show!
As we walked back to camp we came across our hungover friend 'Trashman' (not the one that posts here) He was woozilytrying to stand up, the seemingly hastily stepped-into jeans around his ankles Might be what had tripped him.
"I thought I was gonna die! The moving ground woke me up, kinda gave me the swirleys, I heard rockfall and saw everyone running to the south side. I thought camp 4 wall had fallen and was coming to kill me."
-August dub, no big deal- rixon's =west face route, etc, east of it is the folly = good book, wild thing etc. I mix 'em up all the time. Had to comment when I witnessed someone else's dyslexia behaving the way mine does.
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Robb
Social climber
Flathead Valley, Montana
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I remember those quakes. Especially that boxcar plus one that came off of Grizzly Peak. We were in Boystown during every one of those suckers. By the time they were done , there was a path from our tent cabin to the Curry parking lot from us practicing the 50 meter dash. Best story I have from the apron is from '79 when Pete Chesko & I got cabin fever & decided to do some climbing. It was clear, but cold & icy so we hauled out the wall racks & headed for a little pre-season wall practice on the apron.To make a long story short, we get up about a pitch & a half and the weather goes to imitation Everest complete w/ wind, sideways snow, etc.Hypothermia starts in.W/out anchors to rapp, we put in a bolt & barely made it off & got a fire going under a boulder at the base. Almost dusted at 19... We did'nt have any problem w/ cabin fever after that.....
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